Cheapest 1000 hp 6speed Trans
#22
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You've all the ingredients there to be tough on the transmission.
If you already have a stock T56, I'd use away at it until it breaks. it might last a short or long time.
In meantime, save for a magnum or something like an uprated gearset etc.
If you already have a stock T56, I'd use away at it until it breaks. it might last a short or long time.
In meantime, save for a magnum or something like an uprated gearset etc.
#23
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Tick performance here. I have their level 5 SuperMagnum TR6060. I am making a 1000 rwhp. I chose Tick because for the same money as another sponsor here you get more. Like the cryo treating or polishing (one or the other) is part of the level 5 Tick but costs extra on others.
And for the record there is no comparison between how these TR6060's shift and the stock T56. The T56 is a granny gear 4 speed next a built TR6060.
And for the record there is no comparison between how these TR6060's shift and the stock T56. The T56 is a granny gear 4 speed next a built TR6060.
#25
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stay the fawk away from G Force, i had nightmare dealings with them. they build junk, sell junk, and then stick it where the sun don't shine after you have dumped close to 4k on their "1200 hp rated parts".
Liberty's gears for me all the way! multiple years of abuse, with alot of success. and great to deal with. i not only rack up the quarter mile hits, but thousands of street miles without issues.
however cheap and manual transmissions don't go together. especially when you are talking 1000 hp.
Liberty's gears for me all the way! multiple years of abuse, with alot of success. and great to deal with. i not only rack up the quarter mile hits, but thousands of street miles without issues.
however cheap and manual transmissions don't go together. especially when you are talking 1000 hp.
#28
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Sorry I missed this. Yes I had the stock T56 in my car before this TR6060. I ran it with the same clutch on the N/A motor it ran 10,s. I didn't want to break the T56 and have a pile of junk then need a trans so I sold a good trans to fund my new TR6060 with oiler. I already had a QT bell housing, a McLeod clutch so I sold the trans, stock bell housing, stock shifter, and stock cluch as a swap kit.
The comparison is there is none. The 6060 shifts far easier at normal driving or at 7000 RPM. The best way to describe it is the 6060 is way harder to miss a shift with. It doesn't take as much thought about hand placement and what your doing next.
The comparison is there is none. The 6060 shifts far easier at normal driving or at 7000 RPM. The best way to describe it is the 6060 is way harder to miss a shift with. It doesn't take as much thought about hand placement and what your doing next.
#29
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Sorry I missed this. Yes I had the stock T56 in my car before this TR6060. I ran it with the same clutch on the N/A motor it ran 10,s. I didn't want to break the T56 and have a pile of junk then need a trans so I sold a good trans to fund my new TR6060 with oiler. I already had a QT bell housing, a McLeod clutch so I sold the trans, stock bell housing, stock shifter, and stock cluch as a swap kit.
The comparison is there is none. The 6060 shifts far easier at normal driving or at 7000 RPM. The best way to describe it is the 6060 is way harder to miss a shift with. It doesn't take as much thought about hand placement and what your doing next.
The comparison is there is none. The 6060 shifts far easier at normal driving or at 7000 RPM. The best way to describe it is the 6060 is way harder to miss a shift with. It doesn't take as much thought about hand placement and what your doing next.
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#30
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I know a guy on here made a write up on how to make the magnum 6 speed (pretty sure same as 6060) fit into a 4th gen f-body. so I'd say just do the same thing he did for your 1st gen and you'll be good to go!
#32
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Street type clutches are like on/off switches. Either they are engaged or disengaged. This basically shock loads your transmission in a drag strip launch situation.
A sintered iron low clamp pressure race clutch is designed to slip slightly for a fraction of a second. This is MUCH more forgiving to the transmission(and the rest of the driveline), and has a major positive effect on traction.
A sintered iron low clamp pressure race clutch is designed to slip slightly for a fraction of a second. This is MUCH more forgiving to the transmission(and the rest of the driveline), and has a major positive effect on traction.
#33
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Street type clutches are like on/off switches. Either they are engaged or disengaged. This basically shock loads your transmission in a drag strip launch situation.
A sintered iron low clamp pressure race clutch is designed to slip slightly for a fraction of a second. This is MUCH more forgiving to the transmission(and the rest of the driveline), and has a major positive effect on traction.
A sintered iron low clamp pressure race clutch is designed to slip slightly for a fraction of a second. This is MUCH more forgiving to the transmission(and the rest of the driveline), and has a major positive effect on traction.
#34
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Street type clutches are like on/off switches. Either they are engaged or disengaged. This basically shock loads your transmission in a drag strip launch situation.
A sintered iron low clamp pressure race clutch is designed to slip slightly for a fraction of a second. This is MUCH more forgiving to the transmission(and the rest of the driveline), and has a major positive effect on traction.
A sintered iron low clamp pressure race clutch is designed to slip slightly for a fraction of a second. This is MUCH more forgiving to the transmission(and the rest of the driveline), and has a major positive effect on traction.
What clutche's would u recommend?? Sorry op.. looking for sane situation as u are but in the 8-900 hp range
#35
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For drag race only I like the mcleod 'soft-loc', and the Ram 'single iron'. I run the Ram.
These clutches require ajustments between street and track and are streetable but not really meant for street use.
I think a clutch guru could assemble a clutch that is somewhere in between these race clutches and an rxt. I would call a guy like Cale Aronson at http://www.blackmagicclutches.com/ , and see what he could put together for you.
These clutches require ajustments between street and track and are streetable but not really meant for street use.
I think a clutch guru could assemble a clutch that is somewhere in between these race clutches and an rxt. I would call a guy like Cale Aronson at http://www.blackmagicclutches.com/ , and see what he could put together for you.