Question for Monster Stage 3 users
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Question for Monster Stage 3 users I'm getting my car back tonight from my builder/tuner. WS6 got new AI heads, 44lb/hr injectors and a Monster Stage 3 Clutch and Tick Master put in. My builder/tuner texted me this morning and said the clutch touchy as hell; either "on or off". Is this how the clutch is? After it's broke in, will it still be like this?
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Also, he said he may need to adjust the pedal to my liking, which he said is easy to do. Is this adjustable from under the car?
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Can you comment on adjusting the pedal height, like where you adjust it at and how easy it is to do?
Do you have a Tick master cylinder? If so, you use that to adjust the pedal height for engagement. I forget what the exact procedure is but there should be some threads floating around on it. It's been a while since I have messed with a manual car, ha.
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Yes, I have the Tick Master cylinder too. I'll have my builder/tuner show me because he said it's easy to do and that I will likely want him to adjust the height to my liking. I just hope I get used to driving this thing pretty quickly. I don't want to look like an idiot and keep killing the car.
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Adjust it at a max of about 3/4 in above you brake. Test adjustment by putting the car in gear on level ground and rev it up. If she creeps forward bring pedal up 1/2 to a full turn and try again. Yes you get to look like an ******* just revving his car lol.
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To get to the adjustable part of the Tick Master, all you have to do is remove the two panels underneath the steering wheel, correct? Is this what adjusts the pedal height, or is that something else?
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I haven't even picked the car up yet or driven it since all these things were installed, but I'm just trying to figure out what to expect. If price didn't matter, I probably would have went with a twin disk setup, but I got a killer deal on the Monster Stage 3 w/ Tick Master, new slave, throwout bearing, alighment tool, etc., plus I read really good reviews on this particular setup. I may have some more questions tomorrow morning after driving the car around tonight. Thread Starter
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I picked the car up last night after the new heads, injectors and clutch were installed. I was expecting the clutch to be way more of a bitch than it realy was. Going from 1st to 2nd was a bit tricky because it's really hard to "feather" the car, but that was really the only problems I had. Going into all the other gears was fine. The engagement is toward the very top, which is going to take some getting used to, but won't be a major issue. I'll work on getting the clutch broke in the way that Monster states I should, which will also help me learn the best way to use the clutch and get used to how it reacts. Overall, I'm very satisfied. Just can't wait to get the car back for the max effort tune once this thing is broke in.
I picked the car up last night after the new heads, injectors and clutch were installed. I was expecting the clutch to be way more of a bitch than it realy was. Going from 1st to 2nd was a bit tricky because it's really hard to "feather" the car, but that was really the only problems I had. Going into all the other gears was fine. The engagement is toward the very top, which is going to take some getting used to, but won't be a major issue. I'll work on getting the clutch broke in the way that Monster states I should, which will also help me learn the best way to use the clutch and get used to how it reacts. Overall, I'm very satisfied. Just can't wait to get the car back for the max effort tune once this thing is broke in.
Put some miles on it an then let us know what it puts down!
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From: Jefferson City, MO
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One final question: Right now, the clutch pedal sits about 1/2 an inch above the brake pedal. If I want to get the clutch pedal even with the brake pedal, do I just adjust the Tick Master Cylinder by taking off the two panels underneath the steering wheel? If that's correct, what would I do once I'm down there? Or, is where the clutch pedal's at the optimal spot for it? Just seems to me that the pedal travel is a little long. I understand that even by lowring the clutch pedal, the engagement is still going to occur at the top of the release.
You don't want to get it even with the brake pedal. You need to get it even where it is correctly positioned. I believe that is where it is able to easily slide into first without force? Not sure exactly, there is a guide on it.
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When I push in on the clutch pedal and put it in 1st, it's very smooth and goes into gear just fine; just like it does with all the other gears. Based on this, I guess I'll just leave it alone.
I started with the clutch pedal about an inch below the level of the brake pedal. I could shift ok but it was slightly notchy getting into 1st and reverse from a stop, passed the rev test though. Went home and adjusted it to the height of the brake pedal and now it's perfect for me. If I were you I'd bring the clutch pedal down to the level of the brake pedal and see if it still goes into 1st smooth and all the other gears. No need to over extend the pressure plate fingers if you don't have to. Plus I tried mine with the clutch pedal higher than the brake pedal at one point just to see what it would be like. Shifting was no better for me, and having the clutch throw that long felt awkward.