Tick adjustable master. You have to be f'ing kidding me
08-13-2013, 02:17 PM
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Tick adjustable master. You have to be f'ing kidding me So I ended up having to buy the oh so amazing tick adjustable master cylinder. Great $330...but I figured it was ok because then I know I am supposedly getting a high quality piece.
Well that's where I was wrong. I could get over the pain in the *** install, I already knew about that so it didn't bother me. Once I had it installed only 1 of the bolt holes lined up
So I kept trying to rotate it around to see if I could find the other bolt hole. No dice. Although a little bit of a gripe but it would've also been nice for whoever machined that mount block to actually break the corners so they aren't razor sharp. Thanks to that under my carpet looks like a murder scene...
The edges around the boot in particular.
So one bolt lines up and try for well over an hour undoing it and rotating it every which way to try and just see both at the same time. Again nothing. I have had 3 different stock master cylinders switched around in my car and they have lined up perfectly with no issues so I don't know what the deal is. So I said **** it and bolted one down in the correct orientation as tight as I could.
Have everything hooked up and go to bleed the clutch. I cut the hole in the trans tunnel to access the bleeder valve on the slave. So I am down there head in the pedal box with my buddy watching the reservoir and I start to bleed the clutch. I start to hear a hissing/bubbling sound and he says he can see air bubbles coming into the reservoir. So we end up finding out that it is on the end of the master coming out of the AN fitting. To add to the greatness it went all over into my freshly smoothed and painted engine bay. Great. We thought maybe it didn't get tightened down enough so I pulled it back out, another fun time. Once out I checked the fitting and it was nice and tight but still squirted fluid all over when the cylinder was depressed.
Decided to pull the fitting off and check it for cracks and whatnot. No cracks or anything that I could see. But I did notice that the female end of it had a seat machined out that looked like it was for an o-ring.
At this point I was getting quite irritated at the fact that I paid $330 for a part that leaks and doesn't line up properly.
Found my bag of o-rings and put the proper o-ring for the fitting on there figuring somehow they forgot to put one on or something. Tightened it all back up and what do you know tighter than a frogs *** and doesn't leak a bit. Once again I get to enjoy the fun of putting that thing back in and not have both bolt holes line up. Get everything all bled and set up, no leaks and actually moves my clutch this time. So that I am happy about. I just need to adjust it a little more.
However, I wanted to call tick to see what the deal was and if there was anything they could do. I explained to them my problem and was told I was the first one in the 6-7 years they have been in business to call about the bolt holes not lining up. Ok great. Secondly, I was told they are assembled there and the fittings do not require an o-ring but yet mine squirted fluid everywhere when it was tightened and adding the o-ring made a perfect seal. I also mentioned the machining as a smaller gripe just to let them know because that is ridiculous. I asked if there was anything they could do to make this right. Asked about maybe a partial refund or store credit or something since I wasn't sure what they could all do. All he said was that I could pull it back out, ship it to them and wait the 4ish days for them to get it, then wait another 4-5 days for it to ship back. No, **** that, I am not waiting again for a product that was supposed to be right the first time.
I do not understand that the $330 master cylinder I paid for somehow is the only one in 6-7 years that does not line up when I have had multiple stock ones in my car that have lined up perfectly and has horribly leaking fitting at the end of the MC.
There is no ******* way that I have that bad of luck. This is ridiculous.
Well that's where I was wrong. I could get over the pain in the *** install, I already knew about that so it didn't bother me. Once I had it installed only 1 of the bolt holes lined up
So I kept trying to rotate it around to see if I could find the other bolt hole. No dice. Although a little bit of a gripe but it would've also been nice for whoever machined that mount block to actually break the corners so they aren't razor sharp. Thanks to that under my carpet looks like a murder scene...The edges around the boot in particular.
So one bolt lines up and try for well over an hour undoing it and rotating it every which way to try and just see both at the same time. Again nothing. I have had 3 different stock master cylinders switched around in my car and they have lined up perfectly with no issues so I don't know what the deal is. So I said **** it and bolted one down in the correct orientation as tight as I could.
Have everything hooked up and go to bleed the clutch. I cut the hole in the trans tunnel to access the bleeder valve on the slave. So I am down there head in the pedal box with my buddy watching the reservoir and I start to bleed the clutch. I start to hear a hissing/bubbling sound and he says he can see air bubbles coming into the reservoir. So we end up finding out that it is on the end of the master coming out of the AN fitting. To add to the greatness it went all over into my freshly smoothed and painted engine bay. Great. We thought maybe it didn't get tightened down enough so I pulled it back out, another fun time. Once out I checked the fitting and it was nice and tight but still squirted fluid all over when the cylinder was depressed.
Decided to pull the fitting off and check it for cracks and whatnot. No cracks or anything that I could see. But I did notice that the female end of it had a seat machined out that looked like it was for an o-ring.
At this point I was getting quite irritated at the fact that I paid $330 for a part that leaks and doesn't line up properly.
Found my bag of o-rings and put the proper o-ring for the fitting on there figuring somehow they forgot to put one on or something. Tightened it all back up and what do you know tighter than a frogs *** and doesn't leak a bit. Once again I get to enjoy the fun of putting that thing back in and not have both bolt holes line up. Get everything all bled and set up, no leaks and actually moves my clutch this time. So that I am happy about. I just need to adjust it a little more.However, I wanted to call tick to see what the deal was and if there was anything they could do. I explained to them my problem and was told I was the first one in the 6-7 years they have been in business to call about the bolt holes not lining up. Ok great. Secondly, I was told they are assembled there and the fittings do not require an o-ring but yet mine squirted fluid everywhere when it was tightened and adding the o-ring made a perfect seal. I also mentioned the machining as a smaller gripe just to let them know because that is ridiculous. I asked if there was anything they could do to make this right. Asked about maybe a partial refund or store credit or something since I wasn't sure what they could all do. All he said was that I could pull it back out, ship it to them and wait the 4ish days for them to get it, then wait another 4-5 days for it to ship back. No, **** that, I am not waiting again for a product that was supposed to be right the first time.
I do not understand that the $330 master cylinder I paid for somehow is the only one in 6-7 years that does not line up when I have had multiple stock ones in my car that have lined up perfectly and has horribly leaking fitting at the end of the MC.
There is no ******* way that I have that bad of luck. This is ridiculous.
08-13-2013, 04:08 PM
#2
AN fittings don't need o-rings, the flare on the end seals the connection. However, if it was the wrong angle, that would cause an issue. There are 37 and 45 degree fittings. I honestly don't know why Tick continues to use such a huge mounting flange.
08-14-2013, 07:18 AM
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Yes straight from tick. Actually talked with Martin when I bought it. He was very helpful. Didn't talk with him when I called though. Don't remember the guys name.
08-14-2013, 08:03 AM
#7
Asked about maybe a partial refund or store credit or something since I wasn't sure what they could all do. All he said was that I could pull it back out, ship it to them and wait the 4ish days for them to get it, then wait another 4-5 days for it to ship back. No, **** that, I am not waiting again for a product that was supposed to be right the first time.
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08-14-2013, 08:07 PM
#9
Sounds like a problem with the vendor. Lack of QC. Mass production, Chinese, who knows for sure. My McLeod went in just fine.... McLeod has been around for a good loooong time. They got it right. BTW--- About the same price of a "Tick".
Last edited by 38DD2436; 08-14-2013 at 08:27 PM.
08-14-2013, 08:31 PM
#10
my tick installed just fine but yes looking at that A/N fitting there IS suppose to be a O ring in that particular type, the only place you dont need 0 Rings is where it installes on hose, the hose gets stretched ain the fitting and seals it, but An to An needs a O ring. sorry you had problems my tick works flawlessly
08-14-2013, 09:04 PM
#11
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I bought a Tick master straight from them. It has been in the car approx a year and has performed great. I received excellent customer service. The only gripe I had was they didn't put in the instructions to re-adjust the clutch switch. I didn't realize that and had to jam my head down there another time to adjust it.
Every company has a f#ck up once in a while. It ain't cool to blast them online for it though.
Every company has a f#ck up once in a while. It ain't cool to blast them online for it though.
08-14-2013, 09:58 PM
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Hmmm. I put in mine about two weeks ago. No problems in fitment or leaking and total time of install was less than 2 1/2 hrs from start to being bled and powershift tested.
08-15-2013, 12:33 AM
#14
08-15-2013, 05:45 AM
#15
I agree no company is perfect and this is the first problem I have ever heard. Mine went in very easily with no issues. I hope you at least contacted Martin or Joey and tried to get it sorted out before coming on here and bashing the product, mistakes do happen.
08-15-2013, 06:43 AM
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Did you call them about it? Because I found it hard to believe that I was the first and only person to have that issue in 7 years.
That's what I told him on the phone and he said it doesn't. I knew the other connector did not, did my fuel lines in braided lines and AN fittings. The master cylinder itself now works fine but it's only held in by one bolt since the other is nowhere near lining up.
I agree no one is perfect and I am not one to usually bitch especially without calling the company first to figure something out. This is the first time I have actually posted on a forum which a thread like this. I did talk with someone there before I made this thread. It was not Martin for sure and I do not believe it was Joey. The third to last chunk of writing I explained what was discussed over the phone.
my tick installed just fine but yes looking at that A/N fitting there IS suppose to be a O ring in that particular type, the only place you dont need 0 Rings is where it installes on hose, the hose gets stretched ain the fitting and seals it, but An to An needs a O ring. sorry you had problems my tick works flawlessly
I agree no one is perfect and I am not one to usually bitch especially without calling the company first to figure something out. This is the first time I have actually posted on a forum which a thread like this. I did talk with someone there before I made this thread. It was not Martin for sure and I do not believe it was Joey. The third to last chunk of writing I explained what was discussed over the phone.
Last edited by Streetlegal?; 08-15-2013 at 06:51 AM.
08-15-2013, 08:13 AM
#17
First off, the an fittings we use do not need an o-ring. The body of the master cylinder is machined with a taper which accepts the taper/angle of the fitting provided. If an o-ring fixed your leak, it is likely that the fitting or master has a small scratch or flaw on the sealing surface. Close observation should determine if that is the case or not.
As for the bolts lining up, yes it can be difficult at times. Our brackets are all machined the same, however I have seen cars that were more difficult to line up that others. Was your car an original manual trans car? I have never seen one that wouldn't line up...and what I do is simply run one bolt down close but not snug, then grab the gold threaded rod and pull while rotating to line the other bolt up.
It is my understanding that we offered to charge you for another master, and once we receive the "faulty" one back we would refund your card.
I will admit that the bracket should line up without issue, and if you'd like you can take a measurement of the bracket from center of hole to center of hole and we'll compare to other brackets on the shelf.
If you had the master in and seen that the bolts did not line up, and then had to pull it back out anyway to diagnose the leak why not just open one of the holes up a bit on the firewall so it would line up? I'm not saying you or anyone should need to do that as no one ever before has had an issue where it wouldn't line up....but wouldn't that have been a lot easier than taking it back out a third time just to compare it to another master?
Are you sure that the wiring in the engine bay isn't causing your alignment issue? We'll do anything we can to help you resolve your issue, but we're not going to simply send you another free cylinder kit with free over-night shipping while you hang onto the one you already have. It works like this: you send us that one back to inspect, or you pay for another one and then get credit for the bad one when it comes back to us.
-Jonathan
As for the bolts lining up, yes it can be difficult at times. Our brackets are all machined the same, however I have seen cars that were more difficult to line up that others. Was your car an original manual trans car? I have never seen one that wouldn't line up...and what I do is simply run one bolt down close but not snug, then grab the gold threaded rod and pull while rotating to line the other bolt up.
It is my understanding that we offered to charge you for another master, and once we receive the "faulty" one back we would refund your card.
I will admit that the bracket should line up without issue, and if you'd like you can take a measurement of the bracket from center of hole to center of hole and we'll compare to other brackets on the shelf.
If you had the master in and seen that the bolts did not line up, and then had to pull it back out anyway to diagnose the leak why not just open one of the holes up a bit on the firewall so it would line up? I'm not saying you or anyone should need to do that as no one ever before has had an issue where it wouldn't line up....but wouldn't that have been a lot easier than taking it back out a third time just to compare it to another master?
Are you sure that the wiring in the engine bay isn't causing your alignment issue? We'll do anything we can to help you resolve your issue, but we're not going to simply send you another free cylinder kit with free over-night shipping while you hang onto the one you already have. It works like this: you send us that one back to inspect, or you pay for another one and then get credit for the bad one when it comes back to us.
-Jonathan
08-15-2013, 08:37 AM
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First off, the an fittings we use do not need an o-ring. The body of the master cylinder is machined with a taper which accepts the taper/angle of the fitting provided. If an o-ring fixed your leak, it is likely that the fitting or master has a small scratch or flaw on the sealing surface. Close observation should determine if that is the case or not.
As for the bolts lining up, yes it can be difficult at times. Our brackets are all machined the same, however I have seen cars that were more difficult to line up that others. Was your car an original manual trans car? I have never seen one that wouldn't line up...and what I do is simply run one bolt down close but not snug, then grab the gold threaded rod and pull while rotating to line the other bolt up.
It is my understanding that we offered to charge you for another master, and once we receive the "faulty" one back we would refund your card.
I will admit that the bracket should line up without issue, and if you'd like you can take a measurement of the bracket from center of hole to center of hole and we'll compare to other brackets on the shelf.
If you had the master in and seen that the bolts did not line up, and then had to pull it back out anyway to diagnose the leak why not just open one of the holes up a bit on the firewall so it would line up? I'm not saying you or anyone should need to do that as no one ever before has had an issue where it wouldn't line up....but wouldn't that have been a lot easier than taking it back out a third time just to compare it to another master?
Are you sure that the wiring in the engine bay isn't causing your alignment issue? We'll do anything we can to help you resolve your issue, but we're not going to simply send you another free cylinder kit with free over-night shipping while you hang onto the one you already have. It works like this: you send us that one back to inspect, or you pay for another one and then get credit for the bad one when it comes back to us.
-Jonathan
As for the bolts lining up, yes it can be difficult at times. Our brackets are all machined the same, however I have seen cars that were more difficult to line up that others. Was your car an original manual trans car? I have never seen one that wouldn't line up...and what I do is simply run one bolt down close but not snug, then grab the gold threaded rod and pull while rotating to line the other bolt up.
It is my understanding that we offered to charge you for another master, and once we receive the "faulty" one back we would refund your card.
I will admit that the bracket should line up without issue, and if you'd like you can take a measurement of the bracket from center of hole to center of hole and we'll compare to other brackets on the shelf.
If you had the master in and seen that the bolts did not line up, and then had to pull it back out anyway to diagnose the leak why not just open one of the holes up a bit on the firewall so it would line up? I'm not saying you or anyone should need to do that as no one ever before has had an issue where it wouldn't line up....but wouldn't that have been a lot easier than taking it back out a third time just to compare it to another master?
Are you sure that the wiring in the engine bay isn't causing your alignment issue? We'll do anything we can to help you resolve your issue, but we're not going to simply send you another free cylinder kit with free over-night shipping while you hang onto the one you already have. It works like this: you send us that one back to inspect, or you pay for another one and then get credit for the bad one when it comes back to us.
-Jonathan
The reason I didn't drill the holes out more is because I put it in the first time by myself so I figured maybe I couldn't rotate it enough from inside. When I put it back in again I had help and they still didn't line up. I did not take it out a third time. The comparison to the old master cyl I was referencing was before I installed this for the first time and they had no issues lining up. That is why I don't understand why this block does not. Also the engine bay wiring is not in the way.
I guess we misunderstood each other about the replacement one. I was not meaning for you to send me one while I keep mine. What I meant was I send you mine then you send me a new one but with the faster shipping. I wouldn't expect you to just send me a free one.
08-15-2013, 03:39 PM
#19
I don't mind paying premium prices for parts, but when I do I expect the fit and quality to match the price I paid. However on my 66 GTO LS2 & T56 swap about 80% of the high priced quality items I bought all needed to be hammered, grinded or welded on. I was especially pissed when my $750.00 headers from BRP had interference with the frame in 3 different spots. Unfortunately "Made in America" isn't what it used to be. Still much better than that China crap though.