tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

I'm helping my brother out installing a clutch in his 2000 Formula.

Everything went smooth taking it out. We replaced the slave cylinder assembly and put in an ACT 6-puck clutch kit with a new fidanza flywheel. Put everything back together and when I went to feel the clutch pedal, it dropped straight to the floorboard.

So I had no pedal pressure, we tried bleeding the clutch by the valve manually. Fluid was coming out but couldn't tell if air was still present. Then seen a trick on YouTube where you force fluid into the top of the clutch reservoir through that small hole. Help burped up a few bubbles and pedal actually felt a little better, where it actually comes up on its own when pressed.

So we started it up and went to pull it out of the garage, but it doesn't go into gear. It will grind if forcefully done. It shifts into gears when car is off. When car is off and put in gear, then started, it stalls out?

I assume clutch isn't disengaging? Could it be because system isn't fully bled?
I'm stumped and don't want to pull the tranny again unless it needs to.

Any help I appreciate!!!! Thanks in advance

Streetlegal?

iTrader: (25)

Sounds like the issue I had with the clutch not dissengaging. Sound like you need an aftermarket adjustable master cylinder that will push more fluid to the slave. Had to do the same thing with my Spec stg 3+

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

Damn I hope it isn't that. I rather pull the tranny then replace the master cylinder

I'm going to try and bleed the system more to make sure all the air is out. We shall see...

Streetlegal?

iTrader: (25)

I pulled my trans 3 times just to figure out I needed a new master. Although I for some reason got unlucky, I would still recommend getting the Tick adjustable master. I highly doubt you will have the same misfortune I had.

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

Well I guess you are pretty close.

I bought a mityvac and believe got all the air out. Still same thing happening....
So I went inside the car and checked the clutch pedal, I was pressing down with my hand and I was watching the master cylinder move around a bit. Come to find out the nuts holding that bracket on the firewall were not that tight. I shifted it a bit (which then I noticed the MC rod has more travel now) and tightened the nuts. And now the car moves!!!

Well, it moves but seems like the clutch barely disengages when fully pressed. So I'm assuming we would benefit with the Tick MC, or getting a shim kit for the clutch. But at least its driving around and can do the break in miles in the mean time

99Hawk#C012

Having the same issue its driving me crazy!

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

If the clutch isn't fully disengaging it is going to cause premature wear on the disc, create extra heat and more wear/tear on the synchros as well, so keep that in mind if you're going to continue to drive it.

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

Thanks for the info. Luckily, he lives where he works lol. So he doesn't drive the car really. The shim kit should be in tomorrow so we'll get that sorted out soon.