Twin Disc Clutch to go w for the Street?!
#1
Twin Disc Clutch to go w for the Street?!
If you had your self a street car was making 425Whp and MIGHT send it to the 600-700whp mark SOME day......what clutch would ya buy to be said and done w it for good?!?!?!?!
Cars a C5 Zo6 Making 425Whp all motor, IV RPM T56 (For now) Might Super Charge down the Road.
Must be........
-Stock Pedal feel (This is why Im looking into a Twin Disc)
-Use Stock GM Master, Ive had a Tick Master In a F-Body and a C5 Vette B4 and No Thxs, never again...
-Very very little scatter and noise (Ive herd some Twin Dics make racket)
-Streetable and want it to last on the street and IF I put slicks on the car some Blue Moon and want to go to the track andit like I just robbed a bank!!!!!
Cars a C5 Zo6 Making 425Whp all motor, IV RPM T56 (For now) Might Super Charge down the Road.
Must be........
-Stock Pedal feel (This is why Im looking into a Twin Disc)
-Use Stock GM Master, Ive had a Tick Master In a F-Body and a C5 Vette B4 and No Thxs, never again...
-Very very little scatter and noise (Ive herd some Twin Dics make racket)
-Streetable and want it to last on the street and IF I put slicks on the car some Blue Moon and want to go to the track andit like I just robbed a bank!!!!!
#2
For what you're wanting I'd say a twin is honestly not necessary. Our level 3 would easily get you taken car of with it's 700rwhp rating and the pedal effort is only 8% stiffer than stock. It doesn't need an adjustable master to work, won't make any noise in neutral and it can take a beating at the track. Don't hesitate if you have any questions...Chris, 817-750-2000
#4
I like m RXT... alot!
stock pedal-check
stock master and slave (DIY adjustable master) -check. shifts great, even before I went faceplated I could shift as fast as a wanted to 7K.
no chatter- check
street drives - check, rated to 850 or 900whp or something craze. I'm a lot less then that. been 1.4s on 275 DR, so you can slip it. your not going to do that with a on/off, mega clamp clutch. I haven't put 10K's of street miles on it, but checked it and its wearing very little off the disc, and every time the car get started and drives anywear its WOT and redline.
There is alot of good clutches out there, to look into like your doing. I got this as overkill because everyone loves there, and you dont hear of any problems.
stock pedal-check
stock master and slave (DIY adjustable master) -check. shifts great, even before I went faceplated I could shift as fast as a wanted to 7K.
no chatter- check
street drives - check, rated to 850 or 900whp or something craze. I'm a lot less then that. been 1.4s on 275 DR, so you can slip it. your not going to do that with a on/off, mega clamp clutch. I haven't put 10K's of street miles on it, but checked it and its wearing very little off the disc, and every time the car get started and drives anywear its WOT and redline.
There is alot of good clutches out there, to look into like your doing. I got this as overkill because everyone loves there, and you dont hear of any problems.
#5
I like m RXT... alot!
stock pedal-check
stock master and slave (DIY adjustable master) -check. shifts great, even before I went faceplated I could shift as fast as a wanted to 7K.
no chatter- check
street drives - check, rated to 850 or 900whp or something craze. I'm a lot less then that. been 1.4s on 275 DR, so you can slip it. your not going to do that with a on/off, mega clamp clutch. I haven't put 10K's of street miles on it, but checked it and its wearing very little off the disc, and every time the car get started and drives anywear its WOT and redline.
There is alot of good clutches out there, to look into like your doing. I got this as overkill because everyone loves there, and you dont hear of any problems.
stock pedal-check
stock master and slave (DIY adjustable master) -check. shifts great, even before I went faceplated I could shift as fast as a wanted to 7K.
no chatter- check
street drives - check, rated to 850 or 900whp or something craze. I'm a lot less then that. been 1.4s on 275 DR, so you can slip it. your not going to do that with a on/off, mega clamp clutch. I haven't put 10K's of street miles on it, but checked it and its wearing very little off the disc, and every time the car get started and drives anywear its WOT and redline.
There is alot of good clutches out there, to look into like your doing. I got this as overkill because everyone loves there, and you dont hear of any problems.
Dont get me Wrong SNL My Monster never failed me at all, just had lower back issues and pushing in that Heavy Clutch pedal made me want out of my own car, thats all
I Def. still want to be able to Speed Shift w confidence that the clutch is all the way dis-engauged No matter what set up I get and wanna hear from ppl that have ran these set ups before.
#6
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...004/Super_Twin
SC09SST Super-Twin
Rated to 900lb.-ft at the crank and easily daily driven. This kit is completely rebuildable, uses a proprietary SPEC-built Billet Aluminum cover, billet steel floater and flywheel (there is a billet Aluminum flywheel option) and it can be upgraded to any other stage that we offer if you end up needing more capacity. Let me know if you have any questions and I will be happy to assist you! Thanks!
SC09SST Super-Twin
Rated to 900lb.-ft at the crank and easily daily driven. This kit is completely rebuildable, uses a proprietary SPEC-built Billet Aluminum cover, billet steel floater and flywheel (there is a billet Aluminum flywheel option) and it can be upgraded to any other stage that we offer if you end up needing more capacity. Let me know if you have any questions and I will be happy to assist you! Thanks!
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#8
have the rxt twin in the supercharged c5 I"m driving this week, pedal isnt much heavier than stock and it holds great, car sits @600hp and have been in bumper to bumper traffic everyday driving 160 miles round trip. I"m liking it so far
#9
i agree with the monster level 3. but if you insist on a twin do their level 1. and not sure why you say the monster required the tick bc all of their clutches work with the stock master.
#10
Thats not my ONLY reason but it is one of them....thats not fun in bumper to bumper rush hour w a bad lower back < Been there and done that in my F-Body
2nd, We put a Monster Level 3 in a C5 Vette w a Tick Master and w the Tick adjusted all the way out w no more travel, the clutch is at fully engauged not much off the floor at all....
Called Joey from Tick and he said that just how the Tick is in the Vettes
In a F-Body thats a bad a$$ set up so dont get me wrong Im not taking anything away from Tick Performance, I just think in the Vettes its not quit right/my personal thing would be that I'd hate the clutch engaugement being like that...
I have installed 5 Monster Clutches in F-Bodies 1 being my own personal car
Had 4 or 5 buddies put them in there F-Bodies around town
Seen it plenty of time first hand that you need a Tick Master w alot of After Market Clutches including the Monsters Level 3...
To test this,
-Put the car in 1st gear sitting on level ground
-Push the Clutch all the way down and hold it there (still in 1st gear) and Rev it to 6500ish
If the car jumps or wants to go Forwards at all well, your clutch isnt releasing all the way like it should. Which in return means your tearing up your trans shifting it w the clutch still engauged a little
Nxt you can not speed shift/no lifting off the gas pedal in between gears, w the stock GM Slave and a Clutch w a heavy pressure plate like the Monster 3 or any Clutch Kit of the same Level. All because of the issue w the clutch not releasing all the way.
The stock GM Master wasnt designed to move enough Fluid to fully dis-engauge a after market clutch like that, so its def not the clutch comp. fault at all.
2nd, We put a Monster Level 3 in a C5 Vette w a Tick Master and w the Tick adjusted all the way out w no more travel, the clutch is at fully engauged not much off the floor at all....
Called Joey from Tick and he said that just how the Tick is in the Vettes
In a F-Body thats a bad a$$ set up so dont get me wrong Im not taking anything away from Tick Performance, I just think in the Vettes its not quit right/my personal thing would be that I'd hate the clutch engaugement being like that...
Had 4 or 5 buddies put them in there F-Bodies around town
Seen it plenty of time first hand that you need a Tick Master w alot of After Market Clutches including the Monsters Level 3...
To test this,
-Put the car in 1st gear sitting on level ground
-Push the Clutch all the way down and hold it there (still in 1st gear) and Rev it to 6500ish
If the car jumps or wants to go Forwards at all well, your clutch isnt releasing all the way like it should. Which in return means your tearing up your trans shifting it w the clutch still engauged a little
Nxt you can not speed shift/no lifting off the gas pedal in between gears, w the stock GM Slave and a Clutch w a heavy pressure plate like the Monster 3 or any Clutch Kit of the same Level. All because of the issue w the clutch not releasing all the way.
The stock GM Master wasnt designed to move enough Fluid to fully dis-engauge a after market clutch like that, so its def not the clutch comp. fault at all.
#11
1999
FWIW I have the Mcleod street Twin. The discs are organic, not ceramic or puc type.
Haveing run many single disc clutches from organic, kevlar and ceramic puc types I have to say this twin drives just like stock. stop/go traffic, crawling through burger drive-thru it is smooth. when you dump the clutch...there is absolutely no fing slip and it easily barks rubber 3-4, maybe even 5th but I have not had enough open road to find out.
The organic disc twin clutches are not the one if you intend to track (1/4) mile the car with a tire on a regular basis. Ocassionally not a problem. Mcleod offers a RST $ RXT one being organic full face disc and the other being a ceramic puc type disc which would hold up better for frequent track use.
For me McLeod is the only offering on a twin for LT1 but for LSx cars Monster, SPEC and maybe others do also besides McLeod
I don't know about other clutches for twins but McLeod uses straps vs "floating" for the floater plate so there is not rattle like old twin disc clutches used to be. i suspect the other companies offering twins do now also but whatever one you pic, confirm that point.
Also my twin requires aa larger bore MC over stock , 13/16 (.81), which came with my twin and a billet FW. I would encourage you to get a adjustable MC with whatever clutch you buy. Mcleod offers them, which I have, and TICK
FWIW I have the Mcleod street Twin. The discs are organic, not ceramic or puc type.
Haveing run many single disc clutches from organic, kevlar and ceramic puc types I have to say this twin drives just like stock. stop/go traffic, crawling through burger drive-thru it is smooth. when you dump the clutch...there is absolutely no fing slip and it easily barks rubber 3-4, maybe even 5th but I have not had enough open road to find out.
The organic disc twin clutches are not the one if you intend to track (1/4) mile the car with a tire on a regular basis. Ocassionally not a problem. Mcleod offers a RST $ RXT one being organic full face disc and the other being a ceramic puc type disc which would hold up better for frequent track use.
For me McLeod is the only offering on a twin for LT1 but for LSx cars Monster, SPEC and maybe others do also besides McLeod
I don't know about other clutches for twins but McLeod uses straps vs "floating" for the floater plate so there is not rattle like old twin disc clutches used to be. i suspect the other companies offering twins do now also but whatever one you pic, confirm that point.
Also my twin requires aa larger bore MC over stock , 13/16 (.81), which came with my twin and a billet FW. I would encourage you to get a adjustable MC with whatever clutch you buy. Mcleod offers them, which I have, and TICK
#12
1999
FWIW I have the Mcleod street Twin. The discs are organic, not ceramic or puc type.
Haveing run many single disc clutches from organic, kevlar and ceramic puc types I have to say this twin drives just like stock. stop/go traffic, crawling through burger drive-thru it is smooth. when you dump the clutch...there is absolutely no fing slip and it easily barks rubber 3-4, maybe even 5th but I have not had enough open road to find out.
The organic disc twin clutches are not the one if you intend to track (1/4) mile the car with a tire on a regular basis. Ocassionally not a problem. Mcleod offers a RST $ RXT one being organic full face disc and the other being a ceramic puc type disc which would hold up better for frequent track use.
For me McLeod is the only offering on a twin for LT1 but for LSx cars Monster, SPEC and maybe others do also besides McLeod
I don't know about other clutches for twins but McLeod uses straps vs "floating" for the floater plate so there is not rattle like old twin disc clutches used to be. i suspect the other companies offering twins do now also but whatever one you pic, confirm that point.
Also my twin requires aa larger bore MC over stock , 13/16 (.81), which came with my twin and a billet FW. I would encourage you to get a adjustable MC with whatever clutch you buy. Mcleod offers them, which I have, and TICK
FWIW I have the Mcleod street Twin. The discs are organic, not ceramic or puc type.
Haveing run many single disc clutches from organic, kevlar and ceramic puc types I have to say this twin drives just like stock. stop/go traffic, crawling through burger drive-thru it is smooth. when you dump the clutch...there is absolutely no fing slip and it easily barks rubber 3-4, maybe even 5th but I have not had enough open road to find out.
The organic disc twin clutches are not the one if you intend to track (1/4) mile the car with a tire on a regular basis. Ocassionally not a problem. Mcleod offers a RST $ RXT one being organic full face disc and the other being a ceramic puc type disc which would hold up better for frequent track use.
For me McLeod is the only offering on a twin for LT1 but for LSx cars Monster, SPEC and maybe others do also besides McLeod
I don't know about other clutches for twins but McLeod uses straps vs "floating" for the floater plate so there is not rattle like old twin disc clutches used to be. i suspect the other companies offering twins do now also but whatever one you pic, confirm that point.
Also my twin requires aa larger bore MC over stock , 13/16 (.81), which came with my twin and a billet FW. I would encourage you to get a adjustable MC with whatever clutch you buy. Mcleod offers them, which I have, and TICK
Does this mean even WITH your McLeod Master the pedal still feel like it did w the factory clutch and still as easy to push in the clutch pedal?
#13
They are the same...the pressure plate makes it ~8% stiffer, pulling the assist spring for the larger bore master cylinder increases the pedal effort substantially ~30% stiffer.
#14
Just got off Ticks site looking at the Twin Disc Selections, I didnt know Monster made a Twin, how new are these? I dont hear any feed back from ppl running them but the info on them sounded good
#15
I have installed 5 Monster Clutches in F-Bodies 1 being my own personal car
Had 4 or 5 buddies put them in there F-Bodies around town
Seen it plenty of time first hand that you need a Tick Master w alot of After Market Clutches including the Monsters Level 3...
To test this,
-Put the car in 1st gear sitting on level ground
-Push the Clutch all the way down and hold it there (still in 1st gear) and Rev it to 6500ish
If the car jumps or wants to go Forwards at all well, your clutch isnt releasing all the way like it should. Which in return means your tearing up your trans shifting it w the clutch still engauged a little
Nxt you can not speed shift/no lifting off the gas pedal in between gears, w the stock GM Slave and a Clutch w a heavy pressure plate like the Monster 3 or any Clutch Kit of the same Level. All because of the issue w the clutch not releasing all the way.
The stock GM Master wasnt designed to move enough Fluid to fully dis-engauge a after market clutch like that, so its def not the clutch comp. fault at all.
Had 4 or 5 buddies put them in there F-Bodies around town
Seen it plenty of time first hand that you need a Tick Master w alot of After Market Clutches including the Monsters Level 3...
To test this,
-Put the car in 1st gear sitting on level ground
-Push the Clutch all the way down and hold it there (still in 1st gear) and Rev it to 6500ish
If the car jumps or wants to go Forwards at all well, your clutch isnt releasing all the way like it should. Which in return means your tearing up your trans shifting it w the clutch still engauged a little
Nxt you can not speed shift/no lifting off the gas pedal in between gears, w the stock GM Slave and a Clutch w a heavy pressure plate like the Monster 3 or any Clutch Kit of the same Level. All because of the issue w the clutch not releasing all the way.
The stock GM Master wasnt designed to move enough Fluid to fully dis-engauge a after market clutch like that, so its def not the clutch comp. fault at all.
W having the Single Disc Monster 3 in the F-Bodies ya have to have a Tick Master or Larger Bore Master Cyc. for it to work right Correct?!
Just got off Ticks site looking at the Twin Disc Selections, I didnt know Monster made a Twin, how new are these? I dont hear any feed back from ppl running them but the info on them sounded good
Just got off Ticks site looking at the Twin Disc Selections, I didnt know Monster made a Twin, how new are these? I dont hear any feed back from ppl running them but the info on them sounded good
#16
The McLeod MC, at least for LT1, is made by Wilwood and McLeod makes the adapter plate and adjusable threaded rod for it and includes the stainless braided line and fittings to attach to slave
I believe twin disc clutches need "slightly" more travel from the slave so a "adjustable" MC with a larger bore provides this.
Twin clutch install is not much different than a single disc. I can only speak about the McLeod but it has shims put in at factory to set stack height and the instructions say to measure between bottom disc and floater plate when that is iinstalled before top disc and PP to confirm, no big deal. Only thing is you need to keep track of shims and in correct order should you remove them for any reason (like sending FW out for balance or resurface).
I was pleasantly surprised at how smooth the twin was right out of the box. Previous experience with SPEC 2+ and other 'puc" type discs be it kevlar or ceramic all had chatter and were less forgiving on the street especially in rush hour traffic...and the looong burger line at In & Out or sloww parking crawl at ball game parking. The band was very narrow in achieving smooth engagement with these clutches. I could do it but every day in rush hour traffic had its moments when I didn't.
#17
No that does not mean it needs a tick master it means you still have air in the system or you need to shim the slave a bit. will a tick master fix that.. yes but so will a $3 shim.
i have been running a monster level 2 twin @~850whp and its been nothing but awesome all year. flat foot shifts like a dream and nice engagement feel and a light pedal.
i have been running a monster level 2 twin @~850whp and its been nothing but awesome all year. flat foot shifts like a dream and nice engagement feel and a light pedal.
I could see how a shim would work but why the heck do I have to rip the trans out install the clutch w out a shim to maybe find out I have to do ALL THAT LABOR AGAIN to put a $3 shim in behind the slave? Myself I would be furrious to have to rip the trans out again to fix this issue......
Just got off the Phone w Tick Performance and they told me RPS Clutch all the way if I wana install 1 clutch and be done w it for good that meets all my wants in a Clutch.....
Funny thing is Martin @ Tick Performance said I tell ya what you want and we dont even make any money off them but I will sell one to you to make sure your happy!
Thats a stand up place for ya!!!
This is what he said to get and Tony M. From AFR told me about these clutches 3 yrs ago also....
http://vengeanceracing.net/index.php...-2-carbon.html
All I've herd from you guys is Positive Feed Back on the McLeod Twin Clutchs.....
A top of the line T56 shop that even sells McLeod told me they have had nothing but issues w the Mcleod Clutches and hated them and the Ram Clutches.....
And Ive gotten a couple Negitive Reports on the RPS Clutches....this is a pain in the A$$
#18
1999, remember you can find positive and negative reviews for any product and in the era of social media and extensive forums online this is even more evident. Talk to the manufactures, see who you like, and then proceed as needed!
#19
If I call McLeod, Mantic, Spec, or no matter who, your all going to tell me to buy your product or give me a reason why I should swing to giving you guys a sale to make $$$.
Everyone on Tech has had It done to them and a Clutch is not a simple bolt on part....I wanna tare my car apart once during the winter, install it, leave the car sit tell weather breaks and be sure when I get it for spring im not going to have to be on my back AGAIN taring out a Clutch I just paid good money for and spent my time installing.....
Everyone on Tech has had It done to them and a Clutch is not a simple bolt on part....I wanna tare my car apart once during the winter, install it, leave the car sit tell weather breaks and be sure when I get it for spring im not going to have to be on my back AGAIN taring out a Clutch I just paid good money for and spent my time installing.....
#20
I love my Monster Stage 3 with Tick Master and Remote Speed Bleeder. Once I got it adjusted to my liking, it feels just like it did when it was stock. I'm at around 450 rwhp now, but plan on going turbo in the near future and I'm confident my clutch setup will handle 700 to 800 rwhp.