Diagnosing Problem Shifting into 1st/Reverse at a Stop
09-02-2013, 05:10 PM
#1
Diagnosing Problem Shifting into 1st/Reverse at a Stop I have a T56 with 80,000 miles on it in my Z28. I'm having issues getting the transmission in 1st and Reverse while at a stop. It will go in if I roll forward/back a few inches. I've tried the press clutch and rev method, car does not creep at all. At WOT, no problems whatsoever. It seems like the shifter is not hitting the gate correctly. No grinding or vibration while trying to get it in gear. Here's a rundown of what we're working with.
- T56 with 80,000 miles
- Transmission fluid changed with GM fluid 3,000 miles ago
- GM updated slave cylinder with 3,500 miles
- Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder with 3,500 miles
- Clutch pedal height adjusted to be about 1" lower than the brake pedal
- LS7 clutch with 3,500 miles
- LS7 flywheel with 3,500 miles
- Motul 600 DOT4 clutch fluid freshly bled with a vacuum bleeder
- Hurst Billet/Plus short throw shifter with 3,500 miles
Typically it's a clutch disengagement issue when you're having 1st/Reverse problems. I've bled the clutch fluid so that is not the cause. The shifter is adjusted correctly, so that also would not be a cause. My components are still fairly "new", so I would HOPE that is not the cause. It's probably not a synchronizer problem since I can shift into 2nd-6th just fine.
Do you think my clutch pedal height is not correct? The Tick master has a larger diameter hydraulic line and I'm wearing of pulling it up further risking damage to the slave cylinder, as well as maxing out the LS7 pressure plate adjustment, which from what I've read, is self adjusting.
I'm stumped. Can anyone throw in their $0.02?
- T56 with 80,000 miles
- Transmission fluid changed with GM fluid 3,000 miles ago
- GM updated slave cylinder with 3,500 miles
- Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder with 3,500 miles
- Clutch pedal height adjusted to be about 1" lower than the brake pedal
- LS7 clutch with 3,500 miles
- LS7 flywheel with 3,500 miles
- Motul 600 DOT4 clutch fluid freshly bled with a vacuum bleeder
- Hurst Billet/Plus short throw shifter with 3,500 miles
Typically it's a clutch disengagement issue when you're having 1st/Reverse problems. I've bled the clutch fluid so that is not the cause. The shifter is adjusted correctly, so that also would not be a cause. My components are still fairly "new", so I would HOPE that is not the cause. It's probably not a synchronizer problem since I can shift into 2nd-6th just fine.
Do you think my clutch pedal height is not correct? The Tick master has a larger diameter hydraulic line and I'm wearing of pulling it up further risking damage to the slave cylinder, as well as maxing out the LS7 pressure plate adjustment, which from what I've read, is self adjusting.
I'm stumped. Can anyone throw in their $0.02?
Last edited by dirtbag; 09-02-2013 at 05:32 PM.
09-02-2013, 06:44 PM
#2
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did you get the Tick speed bleeder as well? makes bleeding much easier, either way it takes time...do you have any "spongy" feeling at the top of the pedal?...if you are certain there's no air in the system, I would try adjusting the pedal height up one turn at a time (you shouldn't have to go any higher than the brake pedal)...if your problem persists, you may just have a synchro issue with 1st & reverse
09-02-2013, 08:25 PM
#3
did you get the Tick speed bleeder as well? makes bleeding much easier, either way it takes time...do you have any "spongy" feeling at the top of the pedal?...if you are certain there's no air in the system, I would try adjusting the pedal height up one turn at a time (you shouldn't have to go any higher than the brake pedal)...if your problem persists, you may just have a synchro issue with 1st & reverse
No grinding or vibrations trying to get it into gear, which tells me it's not a synchro. Maybe I'm wrong... I've only felt sluggish synchronizers on a Nissan 5 speed.
So far it seems the only logical fix is either adjusting pedal height up one turn at a time until it is level with the brake pedal, or flushing the transmission fluid again. Maybe someone at Tick Performance could chime in on max recommended clutch height with their master cylinder?
Thanks for the reply.
09-02-2013, 08:32 PM
#4
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I'm buying an SS that has the same issue. 1st and reverse are a pain to get into. The seller said his transmission guy told him he had a bad fork. Not sure which fork though.
09-02-2013, 08:54 PM
#5
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hopefully someone chimes in for you, but FWIW Tick performance & Monster clutches have both recommended to me & others to adjust the pedal until the car will smoothly go into 1st while running...if you're still 1" below the brake pedal, I would say you can safely adjust higher...again, one turn at a time and you shouldn't need to adjust any higher than the brake pedal
09-02-2013, 08:55 PM
#6
I have a T56 with 80,000 miles on it in my Z28. I'm having issues getting the transmission in 1st and Reverse while at a stop. It will go in if I roll forward/back a few inches. I've tried the press clutch and rev method, car does not creep at all. At WOT, no problems whatsoever. It seems like the shifter is not hitting the gate correctly. No grinding or vibration while trying to get it in gear. Here's a rundown of what we're working with.
- T56 with 80,000 miles
- Transmission fluid changed with GM fluid 3,000 miles ago
- GM updated slave cylinder with 3,500 miles
- Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder with 3,500 miles
- Clutch pedal height adjusted to be about 1" lower than the brake pedal
- LS7 clutch with 3,500 miles
- LS7 flywheel with 3,500 miles
- Motul 600 DOT4 clutch fluid freshly bled with a vacuum bleeder
- Hurst Billet/Plus short throw shifter with 3,500 miles
Typically it's a clutch disengagement issue when you're having 1st/Reverse problems. I've bled the clutch fluid so that is not the cause. The shifter is adjusted correctly, so that also would not be a cause. My components are still fairly "new", so I would HOPE that is not the cause. It's probably not a synchronizer problem since I can shift into 2nd-6th just fine.
Do you think my clutch pedal height is not correct? The Tick master has a larger diameter hydraulic line and I'm wearing of pulling it up further risking damage to the slave cylinder, as well as maxing out the LS7 pressure plate adjustment, which from what I've read, is self adjusting.
I'm stumped. Can anyone throw in their $0.02?
- T56 with 80,000 miles
- Transmission fluid changed with GM fluid 3,000 miles ago
- GM updated slave cylinder with 3,500 miles
- Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder with 3,500 miles
- Clutch pedal height adjusted to be about 1" lower than the brake pedal
- LS7 clutch with 3,500 miles
- LS7 flywheel with 3,500 miles
- Motul 600 DOT4 clutch fluid freshly bled with a vacuum bleeder
- Hurst Billet/Plus short throw shifter with 3,500 miles
Typically it's a clutch disengagement issue when you're having 1st/Reverse problems. I've bled the clutch fluid so that is not the cause. The shifter is adjusted correctly, so that also would not be a cause. My components are still fairly "new", so I would HOPE that is not the cause. It's probably not a synchronizer problem since I can shift into 2nd-6th just fine.
Do you think my clutch pedal height is not correct? The Tick master has a larger diameter hydraulic line and I'm wearing of pulling it up further risking damage to the slave cylinder, as well as maxing out the LS7 pressure plate adjustment, which from what I've read, is self adjusting.
I'm stumped. Can anyone throw in their $0.02?
09-03-2013, 02:35 PM
#7
What if you try to put it in 2nd at a stop? If you push the clutch in with the car in gear on a flat surface and rev the engine does the car feel like it wants to move? You need to isolate the problem to either the clutch or tranny. My car doesn't always want to go right into reverse at a dead stop unless I jog the clutch a little.
OP, I would trying adjusting the pedal up higher to see if it helps. You should be able to go as high as 1" above the brake pedal without causing any pressure plate damage.
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09-05-2013, 03:44 PM
#10
I don't see it noted specifically in your posts but are you pumping the pedal and seeing improvement in release? If so, I agree that bleed-by is a likely cause and this would point at replacing a worn/leaky cylinder.
