69greyghost

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, am in the market for a clutch and contemplated going ls7 clutch but after a few suggestions I was turned in the direction of a Monster stage 2 clutch. Upon reading the item description I read that it says its good for 40k with abuse. Now I am just asking is there any legitimacy to this or are they trying to sell me a dream? The motor is a standard ls1 with some bolt ons at about 400-430 hp. Would 40k be a pipe dream, and does anyone know how these compare to ls7 clutches? Thanks again in advance guys.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

From what ive read, they outperform ls7 clutches and still feel stock for DDing. I think tha stage 1 was meant to compete with the ls7 clutch. As far as how much they last, a lot will depend on your driving type/habits. I cant really say how long its supposed to last though. Ive got a stage 2 and its great for a DD street car.

oldmano2z

I've got 20,000 miles and counting,hard street driven miles and the stage 2 monster has not missed a lick @ 400hp/strange s60/3.54/6spd. though to fully enjoy this clutch use it with a tick master/speed bleed and their fluid line. just wish they would buy me some new tires. heh heh.. the oldman.....

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

It was good talking to you on the phone, but I'll go ahead and respond here for others who may have the same question. A clutch's life really is driver dependent, just like brake pads, tires or even valve springs. If you mainly drive on the highway it could last twice that if all you do is slip it at the track of course it'll be less. I will say, the more aggressive the friction material is generally the shorter the life expectancy as the bulb that burns brightest burns shortest Hope that helps, Chris

73CamaroLT

iTrader: (8)

Well this definitely just sealed the deal for me! I am gonna need a new clutch and was planning on purchasing around beginning of 2014. As a street car with bolt ons i thought LS7 was the best. But after some more research and looking, i think the monster stage 2 is gonna be perfect in my car!

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I simply don't understand how anyone could possibly go with a LS7 considering it has the self-adjusting pressure plate. Just do yourself a favor and go with the Monster that you're considering.

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Monster stage 2 w/ tick mc and don't look back OP. it's what I have and I love it. I'm not making quite as much power as you though but think its okay

AmarilloWS6

iTrader: (3)

Same thoughts here, I've steered so many people away from the LS7 it's unreal. After buying everything you need you're just shy of a Monster Stage 1. I have a Stage 2 myself and it is awesome!

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

I think the LS7 clutch was "the cheapest clutch for the money" for so long, there is a stigma to it that is difficult to get rid of. It was definitley the days before anyone really knew about the self adjusting pressure plate being flawed. I can't imagine the thousands of people (including my brother and I) who have bled and bled and bled their clutches, then replaced the master, then replaced the slave, then re-pull the master and do the drill mod, because that's what the LS1 sticky says to do if you are having trouble shifting at high RPM's even with a stock clutch. When in actuality it was the stock self adjusting pressure plate all along.

I'm gonna ask this to the general LS1tech public, has anyone EVER seen a thread that said the drill mod fixed their shifting issues? I swear I've been on this site over 5 years and can't recall one person in any post ever say the drill mod fixed their problem? Could the drill mod slightly improve shifting on a car that is already shifting properly? I think so. Should the drill mod be listed in the sticky here on LS1tech as a way to potentially fix the high rpm shifting issue everyone has with the stock pressure plate? IMO no.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

The cheapest way to go, IMO, is a Spec Stage 1 with a new ACDelco flywheel... but that's for another thread...

I've had three LS1 Camaros with varying mileage. Here's my personal experience:

2001 Z28 -- almost 100k miles when I sold it in 2004. Only mods were a lid, y-pipe, catback, programmer. Never had any problems with shifting or being locked out of gear; pedal would occasionally stick the floor. I did not do the drill mod. With that said, I bought the car with 70k-something miles, so I can not be sure if the clutch had be swapped before I bought it in 2003 (not likely, though).

2000 SS -- appx 30k when I sold it in 2005; purchased with 12k miles in 2004. Lid, y-pipe, catback, gears, 555R's. Again, never a problem with shifting whatsoever; however, I did the drill mod and updated slave when I replaced the clutch (with a LS6 unit) around 20k miles since I had everything apart. While the pedal would occasionally stick prior to the swap, it stopped after I did the LS6 cluch/slave/drill mod.

2002 SS -- 65k when purchased in 2012; currently at 70k miles. Stock aside from a Flowmaster muffler when I purchased it. The pedal would usually stick after repeated blasts through 4 gears (ie: several hotlaps at the track). After adding lid, ported TB, LT's y-pipe, UDP, and tune it always sticks to the floor after third gear. I am locked out of 3rd and 4th gear at high rpms after two or three hotlaps. I did the drillmod, bench bleed, and regular bleed; however, it made no difference.

brigade24

in a way, it's not really fair to compare the LS7 to the ML2 as the latter is way more clutch than the former...with the LS7 you retain the stock feel...thats where the benefits end. the ML2 dominates everywhere else...if you follow the break-in procedures.

Bradlyj8Z28

iTrader: (4)

Adding for substance.... Drill for me fixed my pedal sticking to the floor. After a couple of drag races the fluid would get hot, not return as fast etc etc.

BKsNHRA

iTrader: (4)

Im at about 20K on mine also. 400rwhp ls1 with a strange s60 and 4.10s. I run it at the track from time to time. Last weekend I drove from neworleans to cruizin the coast in miss and drove all day in that bumper to bumper traffic then drove back to neworleans. Im not worried about it one bit. The level 2 has been flawless since installed. I even put 2 bottles of a 150 shot of n20 threw it. No problems as of yet.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Quoted for truth right here. My Monster stage 3 feels just like my stock clutch felt, but with waaaay more holding power. Best upgrade I think I ever did for my car.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Glad to hear you guys are enjoying you clutches!!!

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

I almost got sucked into the LS7 too what a waste that would have been.

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

I got about 40k out of my stage 3 clutch, first 15k was behind a stock ls1, second 25k was behind 630hp and a ton of drag race launches on slicks, it actually was still grabbing till the day it came apart, the disk separated so I could not disengage it, upon removal the pads were pretty much gone and down past the rivits, but clutch still was holding hard.

ultimetly it all comes down to driving style and what you use the car for. I am on a stage 4 now we will see how long it lasts, I had to replace disk after 1 night of racing because I literally installed it and went strait to track, probably wasn't shimmed right after the amount of material taken off of the flywheel after resurfacing. but everything is running good and I have my drag event coming up this weekend again so we shall see LOL. I recommend monster clutches to anyone, as with any pass produced items you will have some flaws here and there but they stand behind it.

sergo

30k on my Monster 11"

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

my only downfall was not knowing there policy, since I am a monster clutch purchaser I can buy parts individually instead of buying a whole new clutch so when the stage 4 failed after 1 week (which was my fault) I just wanted another disk not under warrently. I took everything apart chunked disk in the trash and ordered one only to be told Ihad to send the disk back LOL. so I had to source another 6 puck clutch from another manufacture (most actually come from the same places). but when installed correctly its 1 bad *** clutch. I have cut 1.5 sixtys on a stage 3

oldmano2z

this thread is a year old and guess what ? 8000 more miles on my stage 2 no problems. took my daughter for her first ride. it felt not as crisp as it used to so I jumped on it a little harder and low and behold the crisp is back! how do I check for wear besides pulling the trans? pull the plastic covers at the front of bell housing? there has to be a way mirrors? I'm an old fat guy and crawling under this thing to pull tranny is a bitch!! any suggestions on this ? correction: BIG old fat guy!!