pferris

iTrader: (2)

I have just bought a new monster stage two after being told multiple times it would solve all of my clutch problems, while still using stock hydraulics. The clutch pedal can be pumped to a full pedal, but after even a mile of normal driving, there is a 2 inch dead zone at the top of the pedal. The clutch is bleed completely, and everything is brand new. I just am not sure what the problem is. This is causing me problems, and making it barely driveable as the engagement is right at the floor after the said mile or so. Any help would be appreciated. This clutch has been the biggest disappointment and a huge pain in my rear. So far the worst $700+ i have spent...

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like air is getting in the system if the clutch pedal is changing after driving, give me a call so we can go over a few things and try to resolve this. Chris, 817-750-2000

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

i agree sounds like you're geting air in the system either by the master or the slave. i wouldnt go bashing monster though because it doesnt sound like a clutch issue either way steve will help you out

pferris

iTrader: (2)

I will call monster tomorrow. The system is completely bleed, with a brand new slave and master. After further diagnosis i am sure it isnt the pp, but im not sure what the problem is. It isnt rpm based, but the if it sits for a little while, the pedal is perfect, but after one or two uses it is back too the exact same spot. And redbird, the clutch has been out a few times, and after spending this kind of cash and time, i was kind of hoping it would be fine. Not necessarily bashing monster here, as they didnt supply the hydraulic parts, but they did say it will work perfectly with the stock hydraulics, with no need too buy the tick master. I may be i have gotten a bad mc from autozone.. But i want too be sure before i go replacing it for a 3rd time...

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Well it should work without the tick m/c. What you're experiencing isnt related to that. If the stock hydraulics werent adequate you would still have a normal firm pedal at all times but it simply wouldnt release the clutch. The fact that you're losing pedal pressure points to a problem with hydraulics.

Go out to your car, make sure the pedal is normal to start with and unplug the quick connect for the master to the slave. Jump in the car now and press firmly down on the clutch pedal and keep it there. If the mast slowly starts to sink to the ground after a few mins of pressure then you have a bad master. If not then turn your attention to the slave

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Red bird is right on the money. The master cylinder having a 2 inch dead zone at the top of the pedal has nothing to do with the clutch assembly. Something is going on with the Master or Slave cylinders. Keep us posted on what you figure out.

Bradlyj8Z28

iTrader: (4)

Just wanted to note all of these threads and Monster is on point. Always offering support and saying "Call me, we will work it out!" They are legit. Can't wait for my clutch upgrade this winter. That being said, pferris did you get it worked out?

mgood613

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar issue and it ended up being a bad new slave cylinder, I kept bleeding the system, replaced the master and then ended up pulling the trans. The slave had a very small leak that kept making my pedal drop after driving.

Make sure you bench bleed the master right because air can get trapped in there, I invert mine while bench bleeding and always get extra air out of them. If your master has gone dry at any point I would remove and bench bleed.

burbalanche

iTrader: (3)

^this i also put a new monster clutch in and kept having similar problems.i installed a new owm slave at the time and turned out it leaked past the seal.returned for new one and was good to go.i also had a small crack in the bleeder fitting that was letting air in(my fault)but steve at monster took care of me!