Staying with the GM clutch
#21
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Thread Starter
If your clutch wasn't slipping you don't need a clutch right now. I have had several clutches last well over 100,000 miles on various cars and trucks. I have a truck right now with 174,000 on the original clutch. It is not slipping yet but I have a new clutch in the garage.
I also know some people can wear out a clutch in 20,000 miles and not even go to the track.
My advice, put the new slave and master cylinder in and drive it.
I also know some people can wear out a clutch in 20,000 miles and not even go to the track.
My advice, put the new slave and master cylinder in and drive it.
#22
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
@ sleepinghawk: From the sound of it i beat on my car way more than you and my original clutch lasted 110k. Don't ask me how, people have been surprised to hear it lasted that long. My LS7 clutch has about 8k on it at this point. But drives better than my original ever did. Like any car mod, do your homework and get as many directions of input as possible and make an educated decision for your needs. You seem like a pretty lucid guy so i'm sure you won't have a problem coming to a consensus
#23
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
That's what I'm trying to figure out now, is my mileage alot on my clutch. Based on your answer, no, it's not. I agree. As far as beat on it, not really. I mean I think I ripped thru 1-3rd 2 times and that was in 06. Then 2nd thru 4th racing my sons modded GTP. From that to just going from 2nd full throttle to 3rd a couple times. And never doing 1st ever again. So in all honest to answer your question I don't think I beat on it, but as you said, I beat on it some. That's not a bad thing, it's just that I'm not that young and those years are far behind me on beating my dream up.
Haha I had a camry, and sold it later and got 3 kids and 3 wives,then got the hawk! But I get your point. But my car is not stock, and I enjoy the performance of it that's why I left the engine alone, and did things around it so I could keep it streetable as possible. I wanted a cam, but that would just lead to the track.
If my clutch is gone because what little beating I did wore it out then I am wrong for wanting the same thing again. I don't want 67,000 miles out of a clutch. But what I do want is one better, and easy enough to install and better quality than what I got out of mine. I don't want to pull it down and keep trouble shooting, so paying a little extra doesn't bother me, I cut no corners on my ARH exhaust cause I hate re- doing, and I love stainless.
At least you know what you did to yours, and you know that the beating did it. I'm just trying to figure out what did mine and how to avoid it and what to buy. Everyone's input does help
Haha I had a camry, and sold it later and got 3 kids and 3 wives,then got the hawk! But I get your point. But my car is not stock, and I enjoy the performance of it that's why I left the engine alone, and did things around it so I could keep it streetable as possible. I wanted a cam, but that would just lead to the track.
If my clutch is gone because what little beating I did wore it out then I am wrong for wanting the same thing again. I don't want 67,000 miles out of a clutch. But what I do want is one better, and easy enough to install and better quality than what I got out of mine. I don't want to pull it down and keep trouble shooting, so paying a little extra doesn't bother me, I cut no corners on my ARH exhaust cause I hate re- doing, and I love stainless.
At least you know what you did to yours, and you know that the beating did it. I'm just trying to figure out what did mine and how to avoid it and what to buy. Everyone's input does help
If you wanna talk physics, then include the fact that the cause of drivetrain damage is initial shock load of launching and shifting (part of the reason the Juice is known for breaking things on the hit). Aggressive sport clutches cause more of that. Factory type clutches soften that blow, and the LS7 has the benefit of being able to handle the power he is making (GM's R&D designed that piece to work in a 505HP car in any weather or traffic condition). And the synchro thing, preloading your gear shifts is exponentially more likely to **** up your synchros than an extra 6 pounds on the flywheel.
This is an issue of total drivetrain weight, the transmission and crank shaft aren't even going to notice a 6 pound increase to the massive bulk already turning.
It's a matter of do you want to enjoy driving your car or do you want to go 0.05 faster at the track.
This is an issue of total drivetrain weight, the transmission and crank shaft aren't even going to notice a 6 pound increase to the massive bulk already turning.
It's a matter of do you want to enjoy driving your car or do you want to go 0.05 faster at the track.
Here you go, i read this a long time ago but just now found it again because i couldn't remember exactly weight differences:
LS1 clutch assembly (w/ flywheel) 49lbs
LS7 assembly 57lbs
LS7 assembly with aluminum flywheel 44lbs
That's primarily due to flywheel weights more than anything. The steel LS7 flywheel is 2.5lbs heavier than the LS1 flywheel. However the firdanza aluminum LS7 flywheel is 11lbs LIGHTER than the LS1
LS1 clutch assembly (w/ flywheel) 49lbs
LS7 assembly 57lbs
LS7 assembly with aluminum flywheel 44lbs
That's primarily due to flywheel weights more than anything. The steel LS7 flywheel is 2.5lbs heavier than the LS1 flywheel. However the firdanza aluminum LS7 flywheel is 11lbs LIGHTER than the LS1
McCloud would probably be your best choice op.
If your clutch wasn't slipping you don't need a clutch right now. I have had several clutches last well over 100,000 miles on various cars and trucks. I have a truck right now with 174,000 on the original clutch. It is not slipping yet but I have a new clutch in the garage.
I also know some people can wear out a clutch in 20,000 miles and not even go to the track.
My advice, put the new slave and master cylinder in and drive it.
I also know some people can wear out a clutch in 20,000 miles and not even go to the track.
My advice, put the new slave and master cylinder in and drive it.
The only thing all this bleeding and slave/master swapping does is reset the slave......which is actually a hydraulic release bearing.
#24
I had the exact same problem you describe, replaced the master cylinder first, pulled the transmission and replaced the slave cylinder, problem solved. Then about 30,000 miles later my clutch began slipping under full throttle over 4500 rpm. Then I went back in and replace the clutch (and I went with a OEM type LUK, it was cheap). No problems with it and now about 12,000 miles on it.
I know you think you have a lot of work in pulling the transmission but actually you are only about half way there. You are going to need a good impact to get those crank bolts loose. The hardest part of the clutch replacement is probably going to be removing the pilot bearing from the crankshaft, I wound up grinding mine out.
I know you think you have a lot of work in pulling the transmission but actually you are only about half way there. You are going to need a good impact to get those crank bolts loose. The hardest part of the clutch replacement is probably going to be removing the pilot bearing from the crankshaft, I wound up grinding mine out.
#25
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Thread Starter
HioSSilver;17748872]The 2nd-4th is what jacks up the clutch. It's a sustained rpm thing. It's really no different than in the old school cars with mechanical linkage. Sometimes the pressure plate would get weak and the clutch pedal would stick to the floor. The same is happening with the hydraulics which are probably fine for the most part. It's the pp fingers sucking in at high rpm then there is not enough throw to reach the faded position of the pp fingers. The longer your at high rpms the the longer and further the fingers move. I bet you can get the 1-2-3 shift fine and then 4th gets notchy and sometimes 3rd will be notchy .
Until a few weeks ago when I was headed to Lowe's, I had no problem what ever with the clutch. Before that as far as shifting fast, I had not done anything from 2nd gear to 3rd in atleast 1 year.But honestly I had no problem getting the gears when I did. Before this Lowe's trip it was just driving around town and what not. No beating at all. Before that it was a summer trip to the beach with no problems. That's why this was so odd when I started moving in 1st at the light going to Lowe's. I actually drove it to Lowe's 10 miles alot of lights but no high speeds but having to pump the pedal. Then I had to drive it home. By the time I cut the car off, and restarted it, I could not get any gear. Next day, saw all the black **** in the bowl and replaced the dirty fluid with new. Din't help a thing. Car has been on blocks since.
So if I had to bet I would guess the slave, but I wish I could tell without taking the clutch apart if it's worn. I feel my downshifting alot on hills and my left foot not being completely off the pedal did me any good!
Until a few weeks ago when I was headed to Lowe's, I had no problem what ever with the clutch. Before that as far as shifting fast, I had not done anything from 2nd gear to 3rd in atleast 1 year.But honestly I had no problem getting the gears when I did. Before this Lowe's trip it was just driving around town and what not. No beating at all. Before that it was a summer trip to the beach with no problems. That's why this was so odd when I started moving in 1st at the light going to Lowe's. I actually drove it to Lowe's 10 miles alot of lights but no high speeds but having to pump the pedal. Then I had to drive it home. By the time I cut the car off, and restarted it, I could not get any gear. Next day, saw all the black **** in the bowl and replaced the dirty fluid with new. Din't help a thing. Car has been on blocks since.
So if I had to bet I would guess the slave, but I wish I could tell without taking the clutch apart if it's worn. I feel my downshifting alot on hills and my left foot not being completely off the pedal did me any good!
#26
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Thread Starter
I had the exact same problem you describe, replaced the master cylinder first, pulled the transmission and replaced the slave cylinder, problem solved. Then about 30,000 miles later my clutch began slipping under full throttle over 4500 rpm. Then I went back in and replace the clutch (and I went with a OEM type LUK, it was cheap). No problems with it and now about 12,000 miles on it.
I know you think you have a lot of work in pulling the transmission but actually you are only about half way there. You are going to need a good impact to get those crank bolts loose. The hardest part of the clutch replacement is probably going to be removing the pilot bearing from the crankshaft, I wound up grinding mine out.
I know you think you have a lot of work in pulling the transmission but actually you are only about half way there. You are going to need a good impact to get those crank bolts loose. The hardest part of the clutch replacement is probably going to be removing the pilot bearing from the crankshaft, I wound up grinding mine out.
#27
I did my clutch in a weekend , I spend way too much time on that pilot bearing, first I broke the Autozone loaner tool pilot bearing puller, then I bought a better one from Napa, then I would up taking a pencil grinder and just hogging it out till I could remove it in pieces. The right way to replace a clutch is to also go with new pilot bearing, new flywheel, new pressure plate and the new slave cylinder. But many people skip a few of these parts.
#28
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Thread Starter
I did my clutch in a weekend , I spend way too much time on that pilot bearing, first I broke the Autozone loaner tool pilot bearing puller, then I bought a better one from Napa, then I would up taking a pencil grinder and just hogging it out till I could remove it in pieces. The right way to replace a clutch is to also go with new pilot bearing, new flywheel, new pressure plate and the new slave cylinder. But many people skip a few of these parts.
#29
And weight of the things attached to the crank is only partly what causes the shock load. The two biggest factors are how quickly the clutch engages on contact (which is more sudden [i.e. harder] in sport aftermarket and more gradual in factory setups) and how much traction your tires have. Not to mention how much torque the motor is making itself.
#30
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
What tech sheet or calculation exactly is it that asserts that optimum clutch kit weight is 36lbs or less?
And weight of the things attached to the crank is only partly what causes the shock load. The two biggest factors are how quickly the clutch engages on contact (which is more sudden [i.e. harder] in sport aftermarket and more gradual in factory setups) and how much traction your tires have. Not to mention how much torque the motor is making itself.
And weight of the things attached to the crank is only partly what causes the shock load. The two biggest factors are how quickly the clutch engages on contact (which is more sudden [i.e. harder] in sport aftermarket and more gradual in factory setups) and how much traction your tires have. Not to mention how much torque the motor is making itself.
Put a 1lb rock in your hand and rotate it. Then put a 2lb rock in your hand and rotate it. Then think about that force @5,000 rpm.
The shock load and part breakage mostly happens due to wheel hop. But clutch weight will transfer more inertia force if it's heavier. Another test for ya......drop a 5lb weight on your foot....then drop a 10lb weight on your other foot. Let us know which one hurts more.
#31
Oh okay, the common sense tech sheet.
So then that's like, uh, your opinion man
Side not: human muscles fatigue quickly because of lactic acid. Cars are machines, this does not happen. 36lbs = arbitrary number
I've seen more cars break on the hit without the wheels spinning than i've ever seen break otherwise.
Cars are not made of squishy elastic soft tissue, they are engineered from metals designed for consistent punishment. A body builder or pro athlete would rotate the same rock for a longer period of time than i would without fatigue. Because they're made for bodily punishment
If you want to use unrelated analogies: Take a wooden ruler, bend it to it's breaking point. The more fluidly you do that the more the ruler accepts bending till it finally cracks. That's a factory clutch attacking the trans
Take another identical ruler and just smack it, its breaking point is sooner. That's an aggressive aftermarket clutch attacking the trans
The same analogy can be used to describe the way automatic vs manual transmissions attack the rear diff. (but i still think automatics are maxipads)
So then that's like, uh, your opinion man
Side not: human muscles fatigue quickly because of lactic acid. Cars are machines, this does not happen. 36lbs = arbitrary number
I've seen more cars break on the hit without the wheels spinning than i've ever seen break otherwise.
Cars are not made of squishy elastic soft tissue, they are engineered from metals designed for consistent punishment. A body builder or pro athlete would rotate the same rock for a longer period of time than i would without fatigue. Because they're made for bodily punishment
If you want to use unrelated analogies: Take a wooden ruler, bend it to it's breaking point. The more fluidly you do that the more the ruler accepts bending till it finally cracks. That's a factory clutch attacking the trans
Take another identical ruler and just smack it, its breaking point is sooner. That's an aggressive aftermarket clutch attacking the trans
The same analogy can be used to describe the way automatic vs manual transmissions attack the rear diff. (but i still think automatics are maxipads)
#32
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
36~ lb is what a aluminum flywheel and a lightened spec weighs. That's where the number came from. So not arbitrary at all. It's about the lightest he can go w/o custom ****.
The rest of the post about muscles, rulers and auto's I could care less about.
The rest of the post about muscles, rulers and auto's I could care less about.
#33
Hey man you're the one who brought out rock + arm = fatigue analogies so don't hate on me for it.
Just because some aftermarket company made a good sport clutch that weighs X pounds doesn't mean they all have to weigh that much or that it's some kind of ideal weight. GM spent more R&D time and money designing their clutches than any aftermarket company ever did. GM designs their cars to last a long time in factory spec. That's why most factory clutches last over 100k and why most LS1 cars that are close to stock last over 200k (as the whole car itself). When you start making this and that more hardcore then your longevity reduces.
@sleepinghawk: From the sound of things your clutch is probably still good and putting the new slave on will fix your issues. Doing a clutch swap isn't overly complicated if you're mechanically inclined and follow directions well. I'd get a buddy to help you out, 2 eyes better than 1 and all that. If you take the clutch kit off and aren't sure how to judge the wear on it then show it, or pictures of it, to someone and see what they think. But if it's not slipping it might just be hydraulics ******* with your pedal
If however you're like me and say to yourself "i already took this much off so i might as well" and go and do the whole clutch and flywheel issue. Well a factory type clutch could probably see you through another decade or more. I've never heard of an aftermarket lasting more than 80k miles and most i see last 40k. I get the impression you don't want to replace your gear every 60-70k miles. Though with the miles you put on these days it could take you 20 more years to hit 60k lol. I think for comfortable driving and longevity an LS7 kit is the way to go (LS1 and Ls6 kits are cheaper but not enough to be worth the price drop when you consider the slip threshold difference). Maybe someone else knows about an aftermarket kit that lasts a long *** time but i haven't come across one.
If you don't mind putting the time in, it might be worth just putting the slave on and bolting everything back up and see how the car drives. It may (or may not) save you the money for the time being. That's all it comes down to really, how much time or money you feel like putting up and what you want your car to feel and drive like.
Just because some aftermarket company made a good sport clutch that weighs X pounds doesn't mean they all have to weigh that much or that it's some kind of ideal weight. GM spent more R&D time and money designing their clutches than any aftermarket company ever did. GM designs their cars to last a long time in factory spec. That's why most factory clutches last over 100k and why most LS1 cars that are close to stock last over 200k (as the whole car itself). When you start making this and that more hardcore then your longevity reduces.
@sleepinghawk: From the sound of things your clutch is probably still good and putting the new slave on will fix your issues. Doing a clutch swap isn't overly complicated if you're mechanically inclined and follow directions well. I'd get a buddy to help you out, 2 eyes better than 1 and all that. If you take the clutch kit off and aren't sure how to judge the wear on it then show it, or pictures of it, to someone and see what they think. But if it's not slipping it might just be hydraulics ******* with your pedal
If however you're like me and say to yourself "i already took this much off so i might as well" and go and do the whole clutch and flywheel issue. Well a factory type clutch could probably see you through another decade or more. I've never heard of an aftermarket lasting more than 80k miles and most i see last 40k. I get the impression you don't want to replace your gear every 60-70k miles. Though with the miles you put on these days it could take you 20 more years to hit 60k lol. I think for comfortable driving and longevity an LS7 kit is the way to go (LS1 and Ls6 kits are cheaper but not enough to be worth the price drop when you consider the slip threshold difference). Maybe someone else knows about an aftermarket kit that lasts a long *** time but i haven't come across one.
If you don't mind putting the time in, it might be worth just putting the slave on and bolting everything back up and see how the car drives. It may (or may not) save you the money for the time being. That's all it comes down to really, how much time or money you feel like putting up and what you want your car to feel and drive like.
#34
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
@sleepinghawk: From the sound of things your clutch is probably still good and putting the new slave on will fix your issues. Doing a clutch swap isn't overly complicated if you're mechanically inclined and follow directions well. I'd get a buddy to help you out, 2 eyes better than 1 and all that. If you take the clutch kit off and aren't sure how to judge the wear on it then show it, or pictures of it, to someone and see what they think. But if it's not slipping it might just be hydraulics ******* with your pedal
If however you're like me and say to yourself "i already took this much off so i might as well" and go and do the whole clutch and flywheel issue. Well a factory type clutch could probably see you through another decade or more. I've never heard of an aftermarket lasting more than 80k miles and most i see last 40k. I get the impression you don't want to replace your gear every 60-70k miles. Though with the miles you put on these days it could take you 20 more years to hit 60k lol. I think for comfortable driving and longevity an LS7 kit is the way to go (LS1 and Ls6 kits are cheaper but not enough to be worth the price drop when you consider the slip threshold difference). Maybe someone else knows about an aftermarket kit that lasts a long *** time but i haven't come across one.
If you don't mind putting the time in, it might be worth just putting the slave on and bolting everything back up and see how the car drives. It may (or may not) save you the money for the time being. That's all it comes down to really, how much time or money you feel like putting up and what you want your car to feel and drive like.
I only got as far as taking the bolts off the bell part, then had to stop.So tomorrow and everyday after work I'll work on it till the clutch is off. I'll either put some pictures up of the clutch, or I'll get someone who know's about clutches to tell me their thoughts and I'll say what they tell me. I do want to know if my habits abused it over the years anyway.
Yes, that's exactly what I thought about last night. Having it apart this far! Time..... I have for the hawk. It's been a great car and it's very important that I get it close to how it drove before this happened So the old clutch is coming out and the new LS7 one will get ordered soon.
#35
I hope everything works out for you it's definitely a sweet car. I personally found in mine that it was a month or two after the slave started being weird that the clutch started slipping. My thinking is all that dust getting into the fluid to mess up the slave came from the clutch to start with. Also i've heard than downshifting when decelerating is really hard on the clutch so if you do that, it could be a culprit. My dad taught me how to drive on a 5-speed and told me not to downshift to decelerate because "brakes are cheaper than transmissions." So basically what i do when i come up on a stop is brake in 5th (or whatever gear) till the rpms drop to 1000 then put it in neutral and brake/coast the remainder. Except coming off the highway when i'm in 6th i'll brake that til 1k then drop to 5th til 1k then neutral. Maybe that helps clutch longevity maybe not but i do it either way
#36
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Thread Starter
Well my downshifting to slow down was all wrong. Bad habit I got into and right after when I bought it, my oldest drove it and when I saw him breaking with the brakes, I told him to use the gears! Well, I honestly didn't know. Never thought it thru. And that explains why I still have the original brake pads! I had read about 6 months ago not to downshift like I was doing. That there was a correct way but I wasn't doing it right. So now that and my lazy left foot is going to tell on me when I get it apart. Atleast now I can change those habits, cause brakes are easy. There were alot of times I used only the brakes, but alot of times to hear her downshift. I'll know before long.
#37
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Hey man you're the one who brought out rock + arm = fatigue analogies so don't hate on me for it.
Just because some aftermarket company made a good sport clutch that weighs X pounds doesn't mean they all have to weigh that much or that it's some kind of ideal weight. GM spent more R&D time and money designing their clutches than any aftermarket company ever did. GM designs their cars to last a long time in factory spec. That's why most factory clutches last over 100k and why most LS1 cars that are close to stock last over 200k (as the whole car itself). When you start making this and that more hardcore then your longevity reduces.
Just because some aftermarket company made a good sport clutch that weighs X pounds doesn't mean they all have to weigh that much or that it's some kind of ideal weight. GM spent more R&D time and money designing their clutches than any aftermarket company ever did. GM designs their cars to last a long time in factory spec. That's why most factory clutches last over 100k and why most LS1 cars that are close to stock last over 200k (as the whole car itself). When you start making this and that more hardcore then your longevity reduces.
Yea.....gm did a great job on these clutches. They put that weak clutch in to save the rearend. Can't you figure anything out for yourself?
#38
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
I hope everything works out for you it's definitely a sweet car. I personally found in mine that it was a month or two after the slave started being weird that the clutch started slipping. My thinking is all that dust getting into the fluid to mess up the slave came from the clutch to start with. Also i've heard than downshifting when decelerating is really hard on the clutch so if you do that, it could be a culprit. My dad taught me how to drive on a 5-speed and told me not to downshift to decelerate because "brakes are cheaper than transmissions." So basically what i do when i come up on a stop is brake in 5th (or whatever gear) till the rpms drop to 1000 then put it in neutral and brake/coast the remainder. Except coming off the highway when i'm in 6th i'll brake that til 1k then drop to 5th til 1k then neutral. Maybe that helps clutch longevity maybe not but i do it either way
#39
If there were a leak, then the fluid level would decrease. Or you would be able to see it leaking. The bell housing has a vent in it right underneath the slave. What actually happens is the dust in the bell house covers the slave (because it's right there) and as the slave actuates repeatedly dust seeps in through the seals and gets into the fluid. Over time that contaminated fluid eats away the seals in the slave cylinder until the cylinder no longer holds hydraulic pressure. It doesn't have to literally be leaking fluid for it not to hold hydraulic pressure.
And it wasn't the clutch that was designed to save the rearend, not in F-bodies, it was the master cylinder. It was designed to prevent super tight and instant engagement, so rears would make it through warranty more easily. Problem is that same hydraulic set up designed to save rears also kills clutches. And the stock LS1 clutch wasn't very robust to begin with. Not in terms of cars with upgraded power. That's why so many people do the "drill mod" to make their shifts faster in f-bodies.
The cars were made to be easy to drive and long lasting. They left hardcore racing equipment like clutches and rears up to consumers and aftermarket. They have to cut corners somewhere to make the car affordable for the average joe. So they put a shitty rear in it. It's like the transmissions in GTP's, those start breaking quickly once the car makes much more than stock power. Or how Ford used to put T-5s in their V8 cars
And it wasn't the clutch that was designed to save the rearend, not in F-bodies, it was the master cylinder. It was designed to prevent super tight and instant engagement, so rears would make it through warranty more easily. Problem is that same hydraulic set up designed to save rears also kills clutches. And the stock LS1 clutch wasn't very robust to begin with. Not in terms of cars with upgraded power. That's why so many people do the "drill mod" to make their shifts faster in f-bodies.
The cars were made to be easy to drive and long lasting. They left hardcore racing equipment like clutches and rears up to consumers and aftermarket. They have to cut corners somewhere to make the car affordable for the average joe. So they put a shitty rear in it. It's like the transmissions in GTP's, those start breaking quickly once the car makes much more than stock power. Or how Ford used to put T-5s in their V8 cars
#40
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Thread Starter
Just an update.
After installing the new LS7 clutch, new pilot bearing, new slave and new OEM Master, I'm still on blocks.
First problem, 2 10mm bolts holding the slave, stripped. Had to do the coil thing. Seems it happens to a few. No biggie.
After seeing that my clutch had alot of spots (burn looks) all on it I'm glad I decided to just replace it all.
Next and biggest problem, after putting everything back together, Reading as much as I can find, I bled bled and bled. I first bled with the new Tick speed bleeder. Worth every penny! Then did the pumping the pedal using the Speed bleeder, by myself. Didn't change anything. Still no gears. Then I did the speed bleeder with my wife pumping the pedal slow 3-5 times and holding it down, then I cracked the Tick speed b. Still nothing. Tried disconnecting the line where it connects to the slave, pumping slow for 2-4 times then pushing in the check valve thing. No change. No gears while car idles. Car off and I get any gear.
Still thinking at this point I must of put something back backwards or 1 of those 10mm bolts on the slave gave. I did use red loctite. But still feeling good about my install.
Never found any signs of leaks, until stopping by during work and when I opened the driver door, there was a small puddle where the fluid was leaking out of the top of the OEM Master.
Who know's why, I have no idea exactly if it was the pumping, the rough install or just the crappy quality of the MC.
So that afternoon I ordered the new Tick Adjusting MC. It came 2 days later!
So don't have time just to work on the car everyday but I hope to atleast get all ready for the install between today, Sunday and next week.
One thing I'm doing after I bleed the Tick MC as it says in the sticky, is to hook the Speed bleeder to the resorvoir so I don't accidently let the fluid get too low or out. Don't have help, so it's a slow but good progress.
The quality of the Tick Master Cylinder is un real when compared to the OEM! Yes, it's a big difference in price, but just hope it solves my problems.
Big thanks to everyone who wrote in this thread. Your input helped alot!
After installing the new LS7 clutch, new pilot bearing, new slave and new OEM Master, I'm still on blocks.
First problem, 2 10mm bolts holding the slave, stripped. Had to do the coil thing. Seems it happens to a few. No biggie.
After seeing that my clutch had alot of spots (burn looks) all on it I'm glad I decided to just replace it all.
Next and biggest problem, after putting everything back together, Reading as much as I can find, I bled bled and bled. I first bled with the new Tick speed bleeder. Worth every penny! Then did the pumping the pedal using the Speed bleeder, by myself. Didn't change anything. Still no gears. Then I did the speed bleeder with my wife pumping the pedal slow 3-5 times and holding it down, then I cracked the Tick speed b. Still nothing. Tried disconnecting the line where it connects to the slave, pumping slow for 2-4 times then pushing in the check valve thing. No change. No gears while car idles. Car off and I get any gear.
Still thinking at this point I must of put something back backwards or 1 of those 10mm bolts on the slave gave. I did use red loctite. But still feeling good about my install.
Never found any signs of leaks, until stopping by during work and when I opened the driver door, there was a small puddle where the fluid was leaking out of the top of the OEM Master.
Who know's why, I have no idea exactly if it was the pumping, the rough install or just the crappy quality of the MC.
So that afternoon I ordered the new Tick Adjusting MC. It came 2 days later!
So don't have time just to work on the car everyday but I hope to atleast get all ready for the install between today, Sunday and next week.
One thing I'm doing after I bleed the Tick MC as it says in the sticky, is to hook the Speed bleeder to the resorvoir so I don't accidently let the fluid get too low or out. Don't have help, so it's a slow but good progress.
The quality of the Tick Master Cylinder is un real when compared to the OEM! Yes, it's a big difference in price, but just hope it solves my problems.
Big thanks to everyone who wrote in this thread. Your input helped alot!