Documenting my conversion, c6 zo6 to rwd.
5-6 and R sliders are interchangeable.
5-6 Vette/GTO/CTS-V/SSR hubs and R hubs are not. Test fit that key-retaining stamped steel plate on the other hub and you'll see why.
5-6 Vette/GTO/CTS-V/SSR hubs and R hubs are not. Test fit that key-retaining stamped steel plate on the other hub and you'll see why.
k, awesome.
Thanks.
I think I'm fairly good right now. I think the only shifter related internal part I need is the one that pins on in the tail house? that the shifter ball rides in?
I'm about to make an excel sheet of parts and vendors and prices so I can get a game plan together for ordering things. The other c6 trans I found, the guy isn't budging off of $800 so it isnt worth it. I found the counter for $315 and a good used 3rd for 100. I think the 2nd gear blocker is ~$20. That fixes all my broken parts.
I'll post up the spreadsheet and see if I can get you guys to check it out.
Thanks again.
Thanks.
I think I'm fairly good right now. I think the only shifter related internal part I need is the one that pins on in the tail house? that the shifter ball rides in?
I'm about to make an excel sheet of parts and vendors and prices so I can get a game plan together for ordering things. The other c6 trans I found, the guy isn't budging off of $800 so it isnt worth it. I found the counter for $315 and a good used 3rd for 100. I think the 2nd gear blocker is ~$20. That fixes all my broken parts.
I'll post up the spreadsheet and see if I can get you guys to check it out.
Thanks again.
can anyone confirm the tremec part numbers for the upgraded ssr 1-2 syncro retainer...
GM # 89059974 -> Tremec # TURA 5203
GM # 89059975 -> Tremec # TURA 5202
I can't find anything when searching for the tremec numbers and according to the write up, the tremec parts are MUCH cheaper.
help!
GM # 89059974 -> Tremec # TURA 5203
GM # 89059975 -> Tremec # TURA 5202
I can't find anything when searching for the tremec numbers and according to the write up, the tremec parts are MUCH cheaper.
help!
Yes, Mike's documentation of those numbers is correct.
TURA 5203 Qty 2
TURA 5202 Qty 1
Plus a ball for it: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-help.html
Sent you a PM as well.
TURA 5203 Qty 2
TURA 5202 Qty 1
Plus a ball for it: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-help.html
Sent you a PM as well.
FWIW, the ring with the groove was the rev facing ring on my stock LS7 unit.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...t/index_2.html
But I flipped the ring on rev to get to the virgin teeth anyway..
You're correct that the rev Hub has the plastic washer and retainer.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...t/index_2.html
But I flipped the ring on rev to get to the virgin teeth anyway..
You're correct that the rev Hub has the plastic washer and retainer.
I've ground the top off of early C5 levers, but the late models moved the detent (ball and spring) into the front of the rod so if you use one you won't have any positive shifter detent.
GM switched to early engagement synchros and pull teeth from the blockers to accommodate them. If you don't have the synchros with the protruding teeth you can use full blockers.
I'll get some pictures of what I have when I get home. The teeth are flush with the face of the gear though.
When you get your parts list finalized I may have a lot of what you are looking for.
I did a M10 clone using Mike's guide, I started with an M12 to give you an idea of what I have laying around...
I did a M10 clone using Mike's guide, I started with an M12 to give you an idea of what I have laying around...
Thanks.
All the big items needed are the easy part. I'm worried about all the smaller shifter parts.
I need to research the detent on the c6 front offset lever. I don't quite understand what I need to do here to make a flat inspection cover work. The reverse lockout is what hits on that top tang, so it seems like I can cut that tag off and keep everything else as it. Then I could mount the reverse lockout back in the tailhousing when I use an f-body rear offset lever.
All the big items needed are the easy part. I'm worried about all the smaller shifter parts.
I need to research the detent on the c6 front offset lever. I don't quite understand what I need to do here to make a flat inspection cover work. The reverse lockout is what hits on that top tang, so it seems like I can cut that tag off and keep everything else as it. Then I could mount the reverse lockout back in the tailhousing when I use an f-body rear offset lever.
Just got word from autogear that the 2nd blocker ring or outer syncro ring as they call it is on national backorder. The guy also said that no other ring could work in this application. So I'm at a loss.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...733_large.html
The 1-2 blockers are missing the teeth next to the keys also, but they could be replaced with standard blockers without change.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...750_large.html
Thanks for the pictures.
My good blocker looks like the one in your second picture underneath that inner cone and friction. The bad one is missing two whole banks of teeth.
I'm hoping one of you guys have an extra blocker because I can't find any.
My good blocker looks like the one in your second picture underneath that inner cone and friction. The bad one is missing two whole banks of teeth.
I'm hoping one of you guys have an extra blocker because I can't find any.
Last edited by cajundragger; Oct 22, 2013 at 05:52 PM.
D&D looks like they have them..
http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/pr...th=110_103_123
also Rick @ RKT is looking for me for a used part.
Seems like at least something should pan out.
http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/pr...th=110_103_123
also Rick @ RKT is looking for me for a used part.
Seems like at least something should pan out.
Thanks.
All the big items needed are the easy part. I'm worried about all the smaller shifter parts.
I need to research the detent on the c6 front offset lever. I don't quite understand what I need to do here to make a flat inspection cover work. The reverse lockout is what hits on that top tang, so it seems like I can cut that tag off and keep everything else as it. Then I could mount the reverse lockout back in the tailhousing when I use an f-body rear offset lever.
All the big items needed are the easy part. I'm worried about all the smaller shifter parts.
I need to research the detent on the c6 front offset lever. I don't quite understand what I need to do here to make a flat inspection cover work. The reverse lockout is what hits on that top tang, so it seems like I can cut that tag off and keep everything else as it. Then I could mount the reverse lockout back in the tailhousing when I use an f-body rear offset lever.
In a 93-92 F, GTO, and C5, this is achieved by the spring-loaded ball against the guide plate that is bolted to the case under the inspection cover and by the horizontal detent against the right side of the forward guide lever that is pinned to the upper main shift rail.


In your C6 donor, the guide plate has no ball track divots. The right side of the guide lever is only indexed by the horizontal detent laterally to the 3-4 shift gate and therefore, no vertical detent is handled there. The vertical detent is a roller tappet spring-loaded in the reverse lockout housing / inspection cover assembly.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...690_large.html
It acts directly upon a triple-divoted main shift rail.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...714_large.html
I don't know of any upper shift rail divoted in the right place to re-use the TR6060 or either of two late T56 locations that also reaches the F-body offset shifter location without doing a two-piece main shift rail.
So, all I've mentioned here and in PM is towards the goal to replicate the T56 F / GTO shift rail / offset lever / guide lever / guide plate set up. To anyone else listening: the T56 manual everyone downloads (and maybe even reads!) goes over the shift rail setup for the F-body.
I understand!
I remember that spring loaded ball when I took my SSR t56 apart several years ago. I remember it being a PITA to get it all back together.
Thanks for the explanation. I will add some pictures of what I have to help out anyone else who is paying attention to this thread.
Edit-
If I understand you correct, I need D20-D25 below and along with the parts you are sending me I should have everything?

hawks 3rd gen for the pic
I remember that spring loaded ball when I took my SSR t56 apart several years ago. I remember it being a PITA to get it all back together.
Thanks for the explanation. I will add some pictures of what I have to help out anyone else who is paying attention to this thread.
Edit-
If I understand you correct, I need D20-D25 below and along with the parts you are sending me I should have everything?

hawks 3rd gen for the pic
Last edited by cajundragger; Oct 24, 2013 at 08:46 AM.





