First T56 rebuild
12-21-2013, 01:58 AM
#22
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KNown probs and easy fixes in the T56:
Once in tranny, slap in a 1/2 and 3;4 synchro
Step up into the carbon fiber blocking rings.
Billet keys on the 3/4 slider.
Its nice to do it on the 1/2, but not necessary.
I LOVE Bronze pads. Stock plastic is CRAP.
I would go bronze on ALL gear, even reverse..
Speaking of reverse, just flip it 180* (reverse is the only synchro that ONLY ONE side gets used. So, flip it over, and voila, new synchrofor reverse.
Steel 3/4 shift fork.
Degrease case, inside and out.
Check bearings for wear/play/damage.
Get you a GOOD pilot BEARGIN for input shaft/rear of crank.
Those simple mods, you can normally pick those parts up for @ $600-$700.
Word of advice, I lke keeping midplate OFF while Im lining up the t torx headed screws.Thats not the "correct" way to do, but Ive done a 1000 T56 builds. and that works for me.
Billet key vs Non Billet
Broke 3/4 fork:
If you REALLY want to step up, you can go Face PLating:
12-24-2013, 08:09 PM
#23
Everyone says bronze pads are great/awesome yet never say why. They seem like theyd wear just as much as the plastic, maybe more since theyre metal/metal (with obvious oil film) but the plastic should glide over it but can break down and eventually break/crumble. If it were such a big issue, why were they continuously built this way from the factory? Other than piece of mind, what is the honest point of them? Feel? Noise?
Everything else on it is literally new, I just bought and installed everything and drove for a summer worth of time on weekends only. New lightweight flywheel, clutch, pilot bushing, ARP bolts everywhere, slave, lines, completely rebuilt engine with new rotating assembly, valvetrain, cam, etc. Only thing reused was the head and block, everything including hardware was replaced. The trans was rebuilt and obviously half ***'d considering they missed vital pieces when they "upgraded" the other pieces inside.
Ive already ordered new pads, synchros, circlip kit, dowel pins, blockers, and hardware.
Everything else on it is literally new, I just bought and installed everything and drove for a summer worth of time on weekends only. New lightweight flywheel, clutch, pilot bushing, ARP bolts everywhere, slave, lines, completely rebuilt engine with new rotating assembly, valvetrain, cam, etc. Only thing reused was the head and block, everything including hardware was replaced. The trans was rebuilt and obviously half ***'d considering they missed vital pieces when they "upgraded" the other pieces inside.
Ive already ordered new pads, synchros, circlip kit, dowel pins, blockers, and hardware.
12-25-2013, 08:08 AM
#24
Because over time plastic will become brittle due to the heat of the trans and after slamming gears many times has the potential to break. All brone pads are not created euqal some are not truly bronze and will wear out very fast. TDP makes some very nice bronze pads that are specifically designed to eliminate that premature wear issue.
12-26-2013, 07:48 AM
#25
Because over time plastic will become brittle due to the heat of the trans and after slamming gears many times has the potential to break. All brone pads are not created euqal some are not truly bronze and will wear out very fast. TDP makes some very nice bronze pads that are specifically designed to eliminate that premature wear issue.
All "bronze pads" are not bronze. They are actually yellow brass and the material of the syncronizer and the yellow brass do not mix well and prematurely wear a lot quicker. Give Jason a call and he will explain in a lot more detail.
12-26-2013, 07:51 AM
#26
Sorry about that...as I thought you had said some teeth were missing.
KNown probs and easy fixes in the T56:
Once in tranny, slap in a 1/2 and 3;4 synchro
Step up into the carbon fiber blocking rings.
Billet keys on the 3/4 slider.
Its nice to do it on the 1/2, but not necessary.
I LOVE Bronze pads. Stock plastic is CRAP.
I would go bronze on ALL gear, even reverse..
Speaking of reverse, just flip it 180* (reverse is the only synchro that ONLY ONE side gets used. So, flip it over, and voila, new synchrofor reverse.
Steel 3/4 shift fork.
Degrease case, inside and out.
Check bearings for wear/play/damage.
Get you a GOOD pilot BEARGIN for input shaft/rear of crank.
Those simple mods, you can normally pick those parts up for @ $600-$700.
Word of advice, I lke keeping midplate OFF while Im lining up the t torx headed screws.Thats not the "correct" way to do, but Ive done a 1000 T56 builds. and that works for me.
Billet key vs Non Billet
Broke 3/4 fork:
If you REALLY want to step up, you can go Face PLating:
KNown probs and easy fixes in the T56:
Once in tranny, slap in a 1/2 and 3;4 synchro
Step up into the carbon fiber blocking rings.
Billet keys on the 3/4 slider.
Its nice to do it on the 1/2, but not necessary.
I LOVE Bronze pads. Stock plastic is CRAP.
I would go bronze on ALL gear, even reverse..
Speaking of reverse, just flip it 180* (reverse is the only synchro that ONLY ONE side gets used. So, flip it over, and voila, new synchrofor reverse.
Steel 3/4 shift fork.
Degrease case, inside and out.
Check bearings for wear/play/damage.
Get you a GOOD pilot BEARGIN for input shaft/rear of crank.
Those simple mods, you can normally pick those parts up for @ $600-$700.
Word of advice, I lke keeping midplate OFF while Im lining up the t torx headed screws.Thats not the "correct" way to do, but Ive done a 1000 T56 builds. and that works for me.
Billet key vs Non Billet
Broke 3/4 fork:
If you REALLY want to step up, you can go Face PLating:
