Tony Nichols

iTrader: (2)

Bought my t56 from LKQ in florida years ago, for my 318ti/ls project. It was listed as a t56 but the pricing was for a t5, so i jumped on it. They argued their mistake but i have already paid and refused to pay more for their mistakes. Needless to say, when it arrived, they had damaged it. The bellhousing bolts were tightened so tight that they crack the housing in several spots, then the tab with the vin tag was broken off the housing. I was able to source the bell housing on here for 100shipped brand new. Fast forward about a year, the car was put together and taken for a drive after all the fluids were warmed, bled, etc. I had a constant grind into 3rd gear, no other gears, once in gear it was great. I didnt worry, thought it was because it needed to be broken in, as the listing said they rebuilt it. Well, the grind never went away, so i just skipped the gear all together (no fun), but the car only weighs 2700 with a driver and 4.10s out back, plenty to play with.

Now another year later, ive found a cleaner chassis to swap everything over to, so im rebuilding the trans and fixing all the *bugs*. Tore the trans down, i think i found the culprit. Im assuming the keys were damaged thus making it a bad synchro? Im also assuming the shift arm is the aluminum version?

Next step, do i buy a complete synchro stup or just the keys? The trans has about 5k on it if that since the rebuild, didnt even need a gear puller to pull the gears for the tail shafter and case removal.

Tony Nichols

iTrader: (2)

Tony Nichols

iTrader: (2)

Am i looking at it backwards and the 3/4 shift fork is already updated?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, it's been apart.

3-4 iron fork with aftermarket bronze pads.
solid 3-4 keys in pic 14 that are peculiarly worn; order some from TDP to replace.

5-6 cluster gear coming off without tools means it and the mainshaft need checked for repair.

Tony Nichols

iTrader: (2)

What causes that type of wear on the keys? What other damage should i be looking for since the keys have those wear patterns?

This is what the trans looked like when i first brought it home. Stickers, broken housing, and a brand new pro 5.0 on top.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

On those 3-4 keys, that's kind of what happens to OEM 1-2 keys in the GTO & Vette boxes; not abnormal, but since you don't have a good pedigree on those keys, go for a set that take stock springs and IIRC are cro-mo.

BALLSS

D&D Performance is where I got my T56 and billet 3-4 keys, steel 3-4 fork, etc. IIRC the billet keys were $99

dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

The reason they wore in like that is because they are not actual billet. They are powdered metal. Give Jason at Tdp a call. He has billet chromoly keys that have also been heat treated.

Tony Nichols

iTrader: (2)

It's my first time in a trans, is this what was causing the grinding when trying to shift into 3rd? I was to get new pads to replace the plastic remaining ones, already have the shift fork. Never had any issue beyond 3rd initial grind and reverse lockout never worked

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

are these keys no good?

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/it...17/3508384.htm

dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

I've got a box with plenty of those that broke on customers that used them. You also have to use different springs for them, you can't use factory springs.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

so keys from texasdrivetrainperformance are the best?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The irregular wear on the bumps of the keys could prevent the keys from being moved by the slider and pushing the blocker into the gear as intended.

I'm an ongoing customer of TDP T56 keys. They work well.

Tony Nichols

iTrader: (2)

Starting to get a hang of what im looking at, research and a few youtube how to/diys.

Found:

5-6 shift fork pads - One crumbled in my hand when I pulled it off
3-4 shift fork pads - Upon very close examination, one side is wearing unevenly (bronze versions)
3-4 Keys - Deep grooves in keys, though not broken
3-4 Key springs - Look like the OE versions, current keys should have green springs (I think)
Reverse lock - has little to no spring pressure???

Rob WS6

iTrader: (16)

The springs that came with the keys from TGB were blue iirc.

Tony Nichols

iTrader: (2)

That's what I've noticed. I'd assume all the aftermarket (kits) would look a little different to show they're not factory.

Tony Nichols

iTrader: (2)

Final verdict. Cracked blocker ring!!! Now to order the parts and finish this thing.

ToxicT56

Can also tell you that some of the engagement teeth on one of the gears is worn/rounded off pretty good, so just slapping in a synchro and blocking ring will help, but wont cure the entire problem. Let me see if I can pull the picture you posted that Im talking about and engagement teeth worn....

ToxicT56

Let see if this works





Engagement teeth are worn/rounded off slightly on that gear. That can prevent a synchro from keeping the gear engaged (popping out of gear) as well.
Most times is busted keys like the one's you showed damaged, but make sure you inspect the engagement teeth on all your gears.


I think you said it was 3rd gear popping out? The keys (Im assuming the pics of those keys are for the 3/4 slider) are prob the culprit, btu again, inspect those teeth on the gear, and since you said some teeth were MISSING. its good possibility that the gear itself is in fact jacked up.
You got pics of the missing teeth on the synchro? Show me that and the teeth on the gear for that damaged synchro.

Tony Nichols

iTrader: (2)

Never said it popped out of gear, just grinding to put in gear so it wasn't used, ever. Also, there's nothing missing and the teeth look ok. All the pics were also taken with an iPhone so they're a bit rough and unclear, from a focus point of view.