BlackedOutLS1

02 Z28, trying to diagnose my tranny issues, possibly the slave, I found most of my questions answered in sticky threads, etc. however, I remove harnesses and a bunch of other crap to get to tranny bolts, I get all 8 of them out and cant separate the transmission from the bell housing. I was hoping to not have to remove the bell, just the tranny. Its on a transmission jack, and after bolt removal, as I lowered slowly, of course the rest of the assembly lowers with it, but I didn't want to go too far once I realized it wasn't separating from the bell.

Any thoughts or suggestions?? I had a hell of a time with top passenger side bolt of tranny and I've no doubt from pictures that the top bolt of the bell will be worse. How far down can I lower the jack without worrying about damaging other components? And I did try to pull back a bit on the tranny and it just seems to not want to separate from the bell.

Thanks for any and all input. ( I did look at some tech articles here (T56 rebuild, installuniversity, etc to see some pics but still some issues)

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Passengers side bolt should have been easy at least it was for me with solid motor mounts.

Use extensions to get the top bolts off on the drivers and passengers side. Getting it started wiggle the trans and then lightly pry it from the bell housing with a screw driver evenly on the sides.

I have found wobble connectors work better than u joint connectors on the bolts.

Usually a slave only has two problems, throw out bearing making noise or the slave leaking

BlackedOutLS1

Thanks., I got all 8 bolts out, just seems like the tranny is really "sealed" up good to the bell. I haven't really tried to use screwdriver/mallet, etc to kind of separate the two.

If I lower the tranny jack a little bit, obviously everything moves with it, but how far can I drop it down without worrying about it putting too much stress on everything else? I have a jack and a piece of wood supporting the oil pan, should I move that completely? Thanks for info!

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

It should not matter as long as you have a jack supporting the trans. I would say support the trans, loosen the cross member bolts, let the trans come back down and rest on the cross member that you lowered, bolt the cross member back on the trans, support the trans with the jack and then unbolt the chassis from the cross member. That's how I did it and used the cross member to get that extra leverage on the transmission to push it out of the bell housing



Regardless of how low it hangs you will need a lot of extensions.

Try wiggling and pulling, you can also leave the cross member installed to the trans (but unbolted from the chassis) to use for your feet to push (or kick) on the cross member. The jack should be positioned so that you can slide it backwards away from the motor

Www.installuniversity.com

http://www.installuniversity.com/ls1...tallation.html

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

You just have to wiggle it back and forth as you pull backwards. It's kindof a bitch but there's an art to it. I wouldn't beat the **** out of it, but I wouldn't worry about hurting it much either; it withstand a **** ton more torque than a person could ever supply bare handed!

BlackedOutLS1

Ok, thank you both. ONe thought though, since I had issues getting it into neutral, (was really sticking in gears), is it possible though I think its in neutral maybe it isn't? would that keep it "hung up". shifter before I removed it was really really hard to move around, I got it into what Im fairly certain is neutral

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

Can you move the shifter all the way to the left then all the way to the right? Its supposed to be fairly stiff. But when you can do that, it's in neutral. Also if you have already removed the shifter, get under the car, put the yoke/driveshaft into the tail of the tranny and see if you can spin it around freely. If you can (assuming it is still bolted to the motor) then it is in neutral.

BlackedOutLS1

Yup in neutral for sure. I started lowering, and as whole assembly came down, it go so low the jack area supporting the tranny lowered away from tranny, whole thing was just hanging, still stuck to bell housing. now im not slightly aggravated...a lot aggravated. with all the weight there, I thought it would have come loose. maybe I should just put bolts back in tranny and tr removing bell housing instead.

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

Make sure you're also pulling it out as straight as you can.

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

You really have to find that sweet spot, or it's going to be a total bitch.

BlackedOutLS1

Got it bro!, took a 3lb sledge and a small crowbar. Got a little gap with the sledge, and crowbar gently did the rest. dowel pins intact too. now I just have to figure out what problem was in first place, lol. Any thoughts on how to tell if slave was the problem?

thank you all for your help!! much appreciated!

Cajun ELESS-ONE

i helped a buddy with replacing his slave cylinder. his was leaking and the clutch had no pressure. it was a 8 hour job with food break and taking our time. if there is any fluid change it. also get the speed bleeder. it will save alot of time and hassle. it takes some patience to get the trans back on. jack it up alittle at a time and make sure its in neutral so you can line up the splines.

mezzoni

I removed my tranny last week.. total bitch, took me FOUR HOURS one the bolts were already out!! heres what I did...ditch the jack, all it does is get in the way.. as long as you can bench say 180 pounds id say your plenty strong enough throw that thing around. I got right under that thing, put one hand on the very back and one hand on the front and wiggled it up and down allllll freakin day, side to side up and down you name it. also I had a little wedge thingy, stuck that between the bell housing and tranny to try to pry it away some, which helped to a degree. theres two dowl pins at like the 3 and 9 oclock positions about a half inch long. these are possessed!!! onces you get those out of the bell housing the tranny wont drop right down but It will be flimsy and start twisting all over. at this point you say "oh ****!" and grab the tranny with one hand and steady it and grab the jack with the other and slide it under there. the input shaft is still in the pilot bearing so just hold it as straight as you can and steady it so not too much pressure gets put on the bearing. after that your home free!

mezzoni

also like Cajun said, get the speed bleeder, worth every penny. and I haven't even got to use mine yet! bleeding the old fashion way tho is messy and a pain in the nuts. and I don't see how it can be all the effective either unless your down there doing it for an hour, but when you cant even get your hand on the back of the ratchet to switch it from tight to loosen and your getting hydraulic fluid all over your arm, staying under there an hour no longer seems necessary lol

coltboostin

Just pulled a trans out of an LS swapped RX-7- and it was so fused on there I had to use a ratchet strap tot eh rear end AND pry bars to get it off!!! If its been on there a while-they may be pretty stuck on the dowels.