bsf

iTrader: (7)

I intend to replace the clutch slave cylinder in my 98 TA soon. Do you think I should replace the clutch also?

• 24k miles on vehicle.
• Current clutch is original.
• H/C/I done ~3-4k miles ago. Estimated RWHP: 380 – 420.
• Clutch seemed fine until (I believe) the slave started going.
• The vehicle is not driven hard; fair weather street use only.
• Money is very tight now.
• I plan to put the car up for sale after replacing the slave, but I will be firm on a higher sale price until ~Spring 2015.
• I am doing all labor.

If you think I should replace the clutch, please suggest a kit.

Thank you.

Forcepower

iTrader: (23)

I would just replace the slave. If that doesn't fix the issue then look into replacing other parts. I wouldn't spend more money than needed if my plan was to sell it.

VandykeT/A

I would just replace the slave to if you plan to sell it but the stock clutch won't like that much power for very long. Is the slave leaking?

bsf

iTrader: (7)

No evidence of leaking fluid. Have not driven since last fall and not much last year. IIRC, whining/moaning when clutch pedal is pressed down only, regardless of gear; and pedal needs to be pressed down noticeably more than previously before clutch will disengage from flywheel. When clutch pedal is up (returned), there is no abnormal noise.

ETA

I am guessing the slave may actually be fine, but the throw out (release) bearing is shot, since there is no fluid leakage. I am not comfortable replacing just the TOB and not the slave, though. What do you think?

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Actually sounds like the pilot bearing could be the culprit, at your power level I'd look at replacing the clutch while in there otherwise you'll be in there again in a short while I'll bet. Don't hesitate for a quote on a Monster, Chris 817-750-2000

bsf

iTrader: (7)

I am just gathering info. So it is a normal symptom of worn pilot bearing that noise occurs only when the clutch is not fully engaged; only when the pedal not fully returned? What clutch kit would you suggest? Is the stock master cylinder going to be sufficient with the kit you suggest? Thanks.

BALLSS

bsf

you really won't know wtf the noise is until you take the tranny & clutch out. It may be TO bearing but also likely a pilot bearing. Your PP itself possible but TO or pilot bearing are way more likely. you can't tell from outside the car so you need to pull tranny/clutch

if the condition of the clutch is ok you can just put it back in if intention is to sell the car. If you were keeping the car....I would put in a "stage 2" type clutch kit. Often those have a dual friction disc which will hold more power from your H/C mod.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

That would be my best guess based on what you're describing, but as mentioned there's no certainty until you pull it apart. I'd go with our Level 2 which is a full face Kevlar material, we do not use a dual friction as one side is still the weaker link. The stock master will work fine as long as it's in good shape, don't hesitate with any other questions.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info everyone. I will drop the transmission this week to check things out before making any decisions.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Update

Pulled the transmission in 2014 and determined the slave had failed. Ordered Ticks complete Monster Level 2 swap kit with the adjustable master and 28lb flywheel. While waiting for the kit found rocker needle bearings in the oil and the car sat for 2 years. Finally tore into things further this summer and put the car back together recently.

Many thanks to SNL. They were very helpful in 2014 with email and phone discussions concerning the clutch and needle bearings a rocker puked into my engine. Happy with the new clutch system thus far, but still breaking it in.

Still plan on selling the car. Need to get on that.