License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Im trying to figure out which throwout bearing to use for my ls1 swap. Hydraulic seems to give some problems and complications to many ppl. What is the hot ticket for going through with the hydraulic conversion? Is it the later corvette setup ive read about here and there? What part numbers?

If I stick to mechanical? What do I need? I have the lt1 bellhousing. But its gotta be other parts than stock lt1 fork and t.o.

Id like the more reliable version I think...the do it once and be done with even if it is mechanical...I def dont have any desire to lose or cleanup clutch assemblies due to hydraulic failures/messes. Trying to decide which of the 2 is most reliable.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Its a camaro in my signature...I might have clicked it off. My bad. Turned it back on...im swapping the lt1 out for ls1 .

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

I personally like the feel and smoothness of hydraulic. Just bleed it with a quick bleed line when you do your oil change.

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

What is a quick bleed line? I dont know this concentric slave thing from all ive read seems to have done nothing but ruined these cars. Not even the hot ticket items like "tick" or tilton masters can guarantee the pos setup is going to work right. Then ur stuck w the slave inside on the input shaft and its insult to injury. Ideally id like to run the lt1 hydros that are external and actuate the fork resting inside like old school (or just like lt1 but in push style not pull). Seems like ppl can barely access bleeding the chit. Theres an arsenal of threads all over the internet documenting its raw sewage and unprocessed nature. Its the lsXs opti.

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

You seem to have already made up your mind.

The quick bleeder is a line that connects to the slave allowing easy access. A number of companies sell them. They are listed on Monsters site for sure.

As for it being the LSx Opti, I wouldn't go that far. The issue with it is the seal cannot keep the black dust out all that well. Flushing the line to remove any dirty fluid pretty much keeps the slave from ever gunking up. Once or twice a year at MOST unless you race alot is all that I have ever needed and I have never had an issue. Having a speed bleeder adds about 15-20 min to an oil change.

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Not entirely but the evidence is hard to ignore. Its basically recall worthy.
Replacing the slaves every 50k or so which is what it seems they last on an average would suck. Do you know of a good with AN fittings to prevent the leakage issues? Ill look up your suggestion.

Im thinking if a solid reliable one was installed from the begining it could be tolerable.
but hell from all the cons standpoint even an automatic might be wiser.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

If you are running a LSx engine with a LSx T56, you don't have the option of using a LT1 style set-up. The LS T56 bellhousing is different and the clutches work differently. The LT1 had a pull style clutch while the LS has a push style clutch.

Personally I would not have a problem running a new AC Delco slave and MC and calling it done. As you noted, an automatic might be a better option for you since you seem very concerned.

Andrew

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

I've seen the most reliable results from genuine GM slaves over the aftermarkets. In order to make the mechanical clutch work the bell housing and front plate of the trans (assuming LSx T-56) will have to be swapped out for a LTx front plate meaning full disassembly of the trans. Well nearly full. Plus the flywheel and clutch. Maybe even the starter.

The problem with a recall is there is not good fix for something who's flaw is inherent to the design itself. The cylinder around the input shaft design. There are MANY folks who have gone well over 50k with their stock slaves. The rate of failure I believe to be related to temperature and clutch dust. A non organic disk would not have such dust issues.

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Ok notes being taken. Genuine delco slave 2001+.
Preferably non organic disk.
Aftermarket master or possibly modded gm unit.
on the delco slave unit can it be modded to accept AN fittings? Eliminating leaks. Ive seen a mccleoud slave was able to do that.

I am on an lt1 t56 right now. So no problem not swapping out faceplate.
quicktime also has an ls1 to ls t56 bellhousing converting to mechanical. But i dont have true mechanical setup. I have lt1 which is pull type old school fork with all hydraulics external. Ideally a great setup if i could make it actuate an old school fork in classic push type method.
Thereby keeping some hydraulic aid.

I guess its not possible as some1 posted. But its not that far fetched though.
I would need 1 custom bracket to mount the lt1 slave facing backwards and hold it and the fork in place to some degree.

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

AN fittings won't fix any leaks. You could get rid of the quick disconnect but the only issue I've seen from folks is getting it to disconnect quickly. Never leaking unless they damage the o-ring. That being said you can convert it to AN. I'm pretty sure there is an adapter that will work.
No personal experience here but I have read quite a bit that the aftermarket slaves don't make it any better.
The best streetable non-organic clutch I can think of is the Monster stage two.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I agree a remote bleeder keeps the fluid fresh with the nature of the slave being inside the bellhousing. Also as mentioned, the higher the coefficient of friction the friction material and the less slippage that occurs the less clutch dust is produced therefore contaminating the fluid less and it staying cleaner and not deteriorating the seals and causing issues Don't hesitate if you have any questions about a Monster, Chris 817-750-2000

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

the clutch slave cylinder operates no different than a brake master cylinder or brake calipers. it is quite simple. there are many cars on the road with the oem slave working fine, the biggest problem comes from people messing with it for whatever reason and not bench bleeding/filling the clutch hydraulics properly. the ls1 slave was never meant (in my opinion) to be bled on car, that's why it has a quick disconnect line to the slave. the slave and clutch master are filled and bench bled, then disconnected. you install your slave, install transmission, then connect the hydraulic line. if you install a dry slave on the tranny then expect to fill/bleed it however you are asking for trouble, especially if the bleeder valve is not directly on top for the air to escape from the slave when installed, that would be why every one has such a hard time with working on clutch hydraulics. with the ls1 clutch hydraulics, if the slave is not leaking fluid, then you either have air in the system or the clutch master cylinder is leaking internally not pushing fluid.

given the orientation of the car when you bleed the clutch hydraulics when installed on the car, there's no quick bleed line or upgraded master on the planet that will get the air out of the slave if the bleeder opening is not the highest point on the slave with respect to gravity. if you're car is slightly nose up you are f'd.

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

So basically your vote is for bench bleeding it...disconnect it....then install...and reconnect it?

We would not be introducing air during discon and reconnect?

I havent had a whole system in my hands just yet. So I dont know exactly how it all comes together...so thank you for the picture. But from what your saying about "if the bleeder valve is not on top" no air will get out....In your pic it looks like as if the bleeder valve could only be installed top most? I am assuming the bleeder valve is the top "pipe" in the pic.

Thanks everyone for the help in trying to manage to do it right from the start. and hopefully not face a nightmare.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

no it's a valved quick disconnect fitting on the slave and clutch hydraulic line.
you disconnect them and no fluid leaks out, not if they are working properly.
i'm somewhat sure the procedure is bench bleed them connected together, depress slave cylinder then disconnect hydraulic line. you can't leave the slave full of fluid where it will not compress you'll never install the transmission.
gm built thousands of these cars, quite quickly, I can't imagine two or more union people on the assembly line pumping a clutch pedal and bleeding the slave with transmission installed and making a mess- it cannot be done nor was it ever meant to when slave installed on trans with trans mounted to motor and body on top of drive train.
the clutch master and slave came pre-filled and bled from the supplier,
master got installed on body from underneath when there was no drive train and clutch hydraulic line just hung out,
slave got installed on trans then trans bolted to motor,
body got dropped down on engine/trans combo sitting on front K member with front wheels,
worker plugs in clutch master hydraulic line to slave in 3 seconds,
all cars come off assembly line with working clutch.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...bore-size.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...did-gm-do.html