Originally Posted by ******

agree...OP has not been back on his thread since his original ?

but Hio wants to keep beating his dead horse Silver...

Originally Posted by ******

agree...OP has not been back on his thread since his original ?

but Hio wants to keep beating his dead horse Silver...

Originally Posted by chrysler kid

No but you still think very highly of yourself.

I think the best way to prove your point is by showing rotational inertia mass compared to resistance.

If light weight flywheels were of such benefit they would have been widely used by different manufacturers. You are comparing apples and oranges when looking at different vehicles rotating mass.

If your own theory held true big rigs would come with the lightest weight component available to maximize power and free up the mass added to the weight of the engine by the flywheel spinning.

At the end of the day you are comparing your own custom setup to that of thousands of vehicle dynamic engineers and saying rotational mass creating inertial force has nothing to do with power loss through the drive line.

The starter cranks the flywheel and the engine idles to keep the mass of the flywheel spinning. Because of the inertia of the spinning weight the engine does not labor harder in measurable sense to keep the flywheel turning.

A lightened flywheel however will require more force from the engine to be released as the clutch is disengaged since it does not have the larger inertial mass to absorb friction from the clutch being transferred to the rear wheels.

Originally Posted by ******

from Mr Silver

"I think op's original question has been answered. You should try paying attention instead of thinking about big rigs."


__________________

Read the thread again cowboy.....I was never a part of the "big rig" mention

fortunately the Op has made the correct decision despite your comments

Originally Posted by HioSSilver

LMAO.....like I said about your comprehension


Op is making the wrong decision.......there is no doubt

Originally Posted by redbird555

Who likes mustangs???? Errhhhhh..... lol

however the blower ont he cobra or any car for that matter makes no difference. at low takeoff and light throttle the blower is doing little to nothing. boost on roots or twin screw blowers is only made when the throttle is stabbed open at cruise and light throttle the engine will stay in no boost or slightly in vacuum

Originally Posted by HioSSilver

LMAO.....like I said about your comprehension


Op is making the wrong decision.......there is no doubt

Originally Posted by Falco78

I guess I will give the aluminum flywheel a shot, you don't forsee any DD issues with this flywheel? I am looking to see any boosts in MPG as major reason in looking at the aluminum flywheel, but being good in a DD is major concern. I also do realize that the lightweight flywheel will not make any major gains, but every gain is nice to have.

Originally Posted by hrcslam

This is true, if you don't use the throttle to accelerate....

It also depends on the supercharger too, not all of them have the bypass.
No, drive a cobra or most any other blower car for that matter and normal driving will almost never escape vacuum unless the throttle is stabbed.


You sir need to be better informed. Why don't you call Ford, GM, Chrysler, Honda, Toyota, etc. etc. etc. and ask those engineering professionals?

All prefer higher rotating mass for daily drivers (a Supercharged Mustang Cobra certainly isn't Fords attempt at driveability) on their clutch assembly. This started with the 70lb flywheel on the anemic Model T, and still continues to this day. From little Honda Fits, to big *** rigs, all prefer to be heavy on the rotational clutch/flywheel mass. There's good reason for that.

If you notice the Vette video posted on page 2, it revs very quickly (man the sound!), but it also drops in revs just as quickly. That DROP is the problem.
The drop can easily be rectified in the tune to an extent. I know because I just tuned mine.... Took all of 10 minutes messing with the timing at closed throttle and cruise along with a little throttle cracker.

When DDing, people aren't revving the engine and slipping the clutch in stop and go traffic. Well, they shouldn't be. Personally, I'll blip the throttle release the clutch until it grabs while off the throttle, then roll into the throttle again as I finish releasing the clutch. And the rpms will match said efforts, from idle it'll jump to about 1200-1500, then drop back to almost idle as the car gets moving, then the rpms will climb as the car accelerates without revving to the moon. Part of the reason I can do this is the weight of the flywheel/clutch assembly. Clutches last me a very very long time.

If I tried this with your recommended DD set up I'd buck and stall. Every. Single. Time.
Doug's is much lighter so for his I cant say, however I DAILY DRIVE my 32lb clutch assembly which is 20lbs lighter than stock every day and drive just as you do and as I did before and it drives pretty much the same. Def not the street bruiser you claim.

I'd have to drive differently with the lighter set up. I'd have to Revv to 2-2.5K and slip the clutch, burning and heating it up unnecessarily with every stop and go. No thanks.
No you dont. I drive just the way you do.
I know some people are taught to drive a manual by using the 2nd method I posted, but it's wrong for a daily driver. Those people also go through clutches much faster than the first method.

It may take more power to rev a heavier clutch/flywheel, but it also takes more power to STOP it. THAT is where the driveability is affected. It's easier to accelerate SLOWLY without stalling and burning up clutches when stuck behind that Prius with a heavier clutch/flywheel than a lighter one. Of course, as with anything, there comes a point of diminishing returns.



Do your self a favor and ask how do you like how it drives now? If you like it, don't mess with it as the lighter flywheel WILL change how it drives, regardless of what Hio thinks. The lighter one will be funner when driving it hard. But when you are just trying not to hit the car in front of you without burning up your clutch or stalling out, you'll be happy you have the heavier one.

Originally Posted by redbird555

Op you will not lose anything with the lighter flywheel from monster and here's why. A stock ls1 clutch/fly weighs 52 lbs give or take. A monster setup as verified with a scale weighs 56 or so with the normal weight fly. Meaning it is actually heavier than stock, the light weight one brings it down to 46 which is pretty close to stock.

TDP (owener of diamond clutches) sells a 15lb chromoly fly with all his clutches and you never hear people complaining there in fact they all love them. However if that information was better know you could bet your *** people who believe the hearsay would chime in saying how the clutches would drive like crap....

As a side note the monster light fly is still billet steel just a lighter version nothing wrong with that though just wanted to make sure you knew it was not aluminum. You will be happy with the monster clutch no doubt and even happier with the lighter flywheel. I havent regretted my 9" 32lb setup any day I've driven it

Originally Posted by chrysler kid

I love low end torque you get with the heavy flywheel. If your car is a daily driver and you love getting pushed back into the seat from low end torque even at partial throttle go heavy.