Clutch not fully disengaging problem help!!!
11-06-2014, 06:07 PM
#1
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Clutch not fully disengaging problem help!!! I bought my car a couple of months ago with about 1,500 miles on a new Monster stage 2 clutch, new GM slave cyl, and GM master cyl. the previous owner also installed a tick speedbleeder. the problem im having is first and reverse are hard to get into especially reverse. I did the in gear rev test and it DID move forward. Even when i put the car in gear it moves it forward a little. I have read a lot of posts about it possibly being a master cylinder problem, but was wondering if that is actually the problem. My guess is it's the master cylinder, but i dont want to spend $325 on something that didnt need to be replaced, so i need some help diagnosing it. thank you for your time
11-06-2014, 10:50 PM
#3
and bleed the hydraulics
your rev and car moves forward test confirms you don't have disengagement
the new GM & Slave "should" be good. If the slave is shimmed right, it could just nneed to have a good bleed.
your rev and car moves forward test confirms you don't have disengagement
the new GM & Slave "should" be good. If the slave is shimmed right, it could just nneed to have a good bleed.
11-07-2014, 02:11 AM
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I bled the clutch about 5 times tonight, but haven't got to test it yet, too much homework. Is it safe to drive my car like this with the clutch engaging a very small amount?
11-07-2014, 11:19 AM
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I just tried driving it this morning, and it wouldn't let me put the car into any gear. I didn't have a full reservoir either, and I'm almost positive that I filled it, I'll go buy some more dot 3, but I have no idea if it will work
11-07-2014, 04:49 PM
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11-07-2014, 07:26 PM
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If the clutch is not fully disengaging do not drive it. When the clutch is not fully disengaged, its constantly dragging and not only shearing the clutch material off but it will also put a lot of heat into that unit, both of which will kill that clutch very quickly.
Triple check your bleeding and look for leaks. Give us a call and we can help walk you through anything you need.
Triple check your bleeding and look for leaks. Give us a call and we can help walk you through anything you need.
11-08-2014, 12:51 AM
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Im guessing that my slave cylinder has to be shimmed... just to make sure that i understand, the shims will basically allow be engage the clutch earlier and be able to be fully disengaged when the clutch pedal is to the floor?
11-08-2014, 11:41 AM
#10
Burt
email or call Steve at SNL about what/if the Monster clutch can require shims. He is extremely qualified to comment on the Monster product.
Some also use a MC that is adjustable to allow for more stroke. Tick & Mcleod offer them.
I don't have a LS platform but do understand "shims" are used behind slave/TO in some applications to get the stay within specific measurements so the slave has enough travel to release the clutch
since you bought the car with the Monster installed already, possible the PO did not follow correct install procedure in measuring stack height of clutch.
If car shifted fine before but this problem occurred later I would look closer at hydraulics though
email or call Steve at SNL about what/if the Monster clutch can require shims. He is extremely qualified to comment on the Monster product.
Some also use a MC that is adjustable to allow for more stroke. Tick & Mcleod offer them.
I don't have a LS platform but do understand "shims" are used behind slave/TO in some applications to get the stay within specific measurements so the slave has enough travel to release the clutch
since you bought the car with the Monster installed already, possible the PO did not follow correct install procedure in measuring stack height of clutch.
If car shifted fine before but this problem occurred later I would look closer at hydraulics though
11-08-2014, 10:05 PM
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Burt
email or call Steve at SNL about what/if the Monster clutch can require shims. He is extremely qualified to comment on the Monster product.
Some also use a MC that is adjustable to allow for more stroke. Tick & Mcleod offer them.
I don't have a LS platform but do understand "shims" are used behind slave/TO in some applications to get the stay within specific measurements so the slave has enough travel to release the clutch
since you bought the car with the Monster installed already, possible the PO did not follow correct install procedure in measuring stack height of clutch.
If car shifted fine before but this problem occurred later I would look closer at hydraulics though
email or call Steve at SNL about what/if the Monster clutch can require shims. He is extremely qualified to comment on the Monster product.
Some also use a MC that is adjustable to allow for more stroke. Tick & Mcleod offer them.
I don't have a LS platform but do understand "shims" are used behind slave/TO in some applications to get the stay within specific measurements so the slave has enough travel to release the clutch
since you bought the car with the Monster installed already, possible the PO did not follow correct install procedure in measuring stack height of clutch.
If car shifted fine before but this problem occurred later I would look closer at hydraulics though
the car drives fine right now, im just going to keep it out of gear as much as possible when stopped.
11-09-2014, 12:23 AM
#12
I would consider buying the Tick MC. I just put a monster stage II clutch, pp and flywheel in my 4th gen a couple of weeks ago. With a new slave that I did not shim (my bad) and remote tick bleeder. I also bought a new OEM MC. The car had engagement issues from the get go, engaged very close to the floor and could also be difficult to get into 1st and reverse and yes it was properly bench bled before install, several times after with the remote bleeder as well.
I had also been thru this with my C5Z, was using a monster stage II setup on that car as well. The stock style OEM MC inadequacies are just highlighted by some aftermarket clutch setups. I am sure the proper shim would have helped some in both cases, but the stock style MC is giant POS with no adjust-ability. I put a tick mc in my C5Z 2 years ago and just finished putting one in my 99 this afternoon. My issues were resolved then and today.
I had also been thru this with my C5Z, was using a monster stage II setup on that car as well. The stock style OEM MC inadequacies are just highlighted by some aftermarket clutch setups. I am sure the proper shim would have helped some in both cases, but the stock style MC is giant POS with no adjust-ability. I put a tick mc in my C5Z 2 years ago and just finished putting one in my 99 this afternoon. My issues were resolved then and today.
11-09-2014, 11:59 AM
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I would consider buying the Tick MC. I just put a monster stage II clutch, pp and flywheel in my 4th gen a couple of weeks ago. With a new slave that I did not shim (my bad) and remote tick bleeder. I also bought a new OEM MC. The car had engagement issues from the get go, engaged very close to the floor and could also be difficult to get into 1st and reverse and yes it was properly bench bled before install, several times after with the remote bleeder as well.
I had also been thru this with my C5Z, was using a monster stage II setup on that car as well. The stock style OEM MC inadequacies are just highlighted by some aftermarket clutch setups. I am sure the proper shim would have helped some in both cases, but the stock style MC is giant POS with no adjust-ability. I put a tick mc in my C5Z 2 years ago and just finished putting one in my 99 this afternoon. My issues were resolved then and today.
I had also been thru this with my C5Z, was using a monster stage II setup on that car as well. The stock style OEM MC inadequacies are just highlighted by some aftermarket clutch setups. I am sure the proper shim would have helped some in both cases, but the stock style MC is giant POS with no adjust-ability. I put a tick mc in my C5Z 2 years ago and just finished putting one in my 99 this afternoon. My issues were resolved then and today.
11-09-2014, 02:28 PM
#14
a "adjustable" MC has a threaded rod (piston) you can adjust longer/shorter than stock. Making it longer will increase stroke and extend the slave/TO bearing further which will allow full disengagement
BUT!!!!!!
if the slave needs shiming and is not and you adjust a rod on a adjustable MC far enough you can now over extend the slave and it will puke.
You likely need to do both shim and adjustable MC. First shim to with the specs outlined in the Monster clutch kit and then when the Tick adjustable MC is set at stock length and there still is a disengagement issue...you adjust MC 1/4-1/2 turn at a time until you get full disengagement.
with the rear end jacked up, motor on, car in gear, clutch all the way depressed the wheels should not turn. adjust MC until they don't turn with clutch fully depressed.
I have the McLeod adjustable MC FWIW. It is a Wilwood MC that McLeod makes adapters for vehicle specific applications. Nice unit
BUT!!!!!!
if the slave needs shiming and is not and you adjust a rod on a adjustable MC far enough you can now over extend the slave and it will puke.
You likely need to do both shim and adjustable MC. First shim to with the specs outlined in the Monster clutch kit and then when the Tick adjustable MC is set at stock length and there still is a disengagement issue...you adjust MC 1/4-1/2 turn at a time until you get full disengagement.
with the rear end jacked up, motor on, car in gear, clutch all the way depressed the wheels should not turn. adjust MC until they don't turn with clutch fully depressed.
I have the McLeod adjustable MC FWIW. It is a Wilwood MC that McLeod makes adapters for vehicle specific applications. Nice unit
11-09-2014, 03:19 PM
#15
a "adjustable" MC has a threaded rod (piston) you can adjust longer/shorter than stock. Making it longer will increase stroke and extend the slave/TO bearing further which will allow full disengagement
BUT!!!!!!
if the slave needs shiming and is not and you adjust a rod on a adjustable MC far enough you can now over extend the slave and it will puke.
You likely need to do both shim and adjustable MC. First shim to with the specs outlined in the Monster clutch kit and then when the Tick adjustable MC is set at stock length and there still is a disengagement issue...you adjust MC 1/4-1/2 turn at a time until you get full disengagement.
with the rear end jacked up, motor on, car in gear, clutch all the way depressed the wheels should not turn. adjust MC until they don't turn with clutch fully depressed.
I have the McLeod adjustable MC FWIW. It is a Wilwood MC that McLeod makes adapters for vehicle specific applications. Nice unit
BUT!!!!!!
if the slave needs shiming and is not and you adjust a rod on a adjustable MC far enough you can now over extend the slave and it will puke.
You likely need to do both shim and adjustable MC. First shim to with the specs outlined in the Monster clutch kit and then when the Tick adjustable MC is set at stock length and there still is a disengagement issue...you adjust MC 1/4-1/2 turn at a time until you get full disengagement.
with the rear end jacked up, motor on, car in gear, clutch all the way depressed the wheels should not turn. adjust MC until they don't turn with clutch fully depressed.
I have the McLeod adjustable MC FWIW. It is a Wilwood MC that McLeod makes adapters for vehicle specific applications. Nice unit
11-20-2014, 01:35 AM
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So I dropped the tranny, and check all the measurements. They seem to be near perfect, so I guess it was the hydraulics after all. I went ahead and reassembled everything, and ordered a tick master cylinder, I have the tick speed bleeder, and bled it through at Least 25 times, but it's still hard as hell to get into any gear. Hopefully the new MC will do the trick... Can't wait and thanks for all the help
