Clutch Issues! help!
01-05-2015, 12:25 AM
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 403
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Clutch Issues! help! Need some help/opinions.
My clutch has been giving me fits the last few months- hard to get into gear, acts like air is in the system, locked out of gears at high rpm, sometimes I have to pump it ect...
I havent seen any fluid loss or leaks and ive been changing my fluid regularly.
Problem is ive seen to different ways to bleed the system
1st way- pump the clutch many times then hold the pedal to the floor, crack the bleeder and then close it with the pedal still down, then release it and repeat
2nd way- pump the clutch many times, take your foot off, crack the bleeder, push the clutch down and then close the bleeder with the pedal on the floor and repeat.
Which is correct?
When I was doing it these ways I wasnt getting much fluid out of the bleeder valve. seemed like something was wrong.
I put in a new master cylinder hoping that was it and still nothing so the only thing I can think it could be is the slave. But as far as my experience has been, when a slave goes, it almost always results in fluid loss.
Another thing that has me baffled is that when I was using the mityvac, it was holding "20" of vacuum and not dropping, which makes me me feel like there isnt a leak. but when I was using it, I was getting an obscene amount of air.
Another question. Are all remote bleeders a "one way valve"? should I be able to crack the bleeder and pump away? without closing it in between?
Im seriously at my wits end with this clutch and it takes away any and all enjoyment out of driving my car.
Im seriously debating just replacing the entire system completely and being done with it.
Am I doing something wrong or is there anything else I can try to get it bled?
First video is using the mityvac without touching the cluth pedal.
the second is building pressure and pumping the clutch.
If I go the route of buying everything new, I understand that GM slaves come pre-bled. Is this correct? and when I install a new speed bleeder wont I be introducing air into the slave?
what would be the procedure for bench bleeding the master cylinder? or bench bleeding the slave?
how do you attach a new throw out bearing to a slave cylinder? Ive never done it but the slave ill be buying will need to have the throwout bearing put on. and yes I know they normally come attached.
Ill be buying a factory LS6 Clutch and flywheel (LUK). will I need to measure for a slave cylinder shim?
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure that I cover all the bases before I tackle this project again
My clutch has been giving me fits the last few months- hard to get into gear, acts like air is in the system, locked out of gears at high rpm, sometimes I have to pump it ect...
I havent seen any fluid loss or leaks and ive been changing my fluid regularly.
Problem is ive seen to different ways to bleed the system
1st way- pump the clutch many times then hold the pedal to the floor, crack the bleeder and then close it with the pedal still down, then release it and repeat
2nd way- pump the clutch many times, take your foot off, crack the bleeder, push the clutch down and then close the bleeder with the pedal on the floor and repeat.
Which is correct?
When I was doing it these ways I wasnt getting much fluid out of the bleeder valve. seemed like something was wrong.
I put in a new master cylinder hoping that was it and still nothing so the only thing I can think it could be is the slave. But as far as my experience has been, when a slave goes, it almost always results in fluid loss.
Another thing that has me baffled is that when I was using the mityvac, it was holding "20" of vacuum and not dropping, which makes me me feel like there isnt a leak. but when I was using it, I was getting an obscene amount of air.
Another question. Are all remote bleeders a "one way valve"? should I be able to crack the bleeder and pump away? without closing it in between?
Im seriously at my wits end with this clutch and it takes away any and all enjoyment out of driving my car.
Im seriously debating just replacing the entire system completely and being done with it.
Am I doing something wrong or is there anything else I can try to get it bled?
First video is using the mityvac without touching the cluth pedal.
the second is building pressure and pumping the clutch.
If I go the route of buying everything new, I understand that GM slaves come pre-bled. Is this correct? and when I install a new speed bleeder wont I be introducing air into the slave?
what would be the procedure for bench bleeding the master cylinder? or bench bleeding the slave?
how do you attach a new throw out bearing to a slave cylinder? Ive never done it but the slave ill be buying will need to have the throwout bearing put on. and yes I know they normally come attached.
Ill be buying a factory LS6 Clutch and flywheel (LUK). will I need to measure for a slave cylinder shim?
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure that I cover all the bases before I tackle this project again
01-06-2015, 09:56 AM
#2
Ask mods to move this to the manual transmission section & you'll find more help. Do you have an adjustable master cylinder? Perhaps the clutch is worn & by adjusting the master, can help w/ disengagement issues.
Option 2 is the better method. Don't know if speed bleeders are one way.
Seems mechanical rather than air within the system. Try the adjustable master. Can make your own if yours isn't adjustable. Just need threaded rod, nuts & a female threaded fork to mount @ the pedal arm.
Option 2 is the better method. Don't know if speed bleeders are one way.
Seems mechanical rather than air within the system. Try the adjustable master. Can make your own if yours isn't adjustable. Just need threaded rod, nuts & a female threaded fork to mount @ the pedal arm.
01-06-2015, 06:44 PM
#4
I've gone through this myself and went through this with someone else, went down the road of speed bleeders, tick m/c, multiple bleed techniques, and both times it was just that the pressure plate springs were simply too weak to overcome centrifugal force at higher RPM due to age/wear.
I mention this because you say you are locked out of gears at high RPM. That was the main symptom we were seeing.
I felt like a fool doing the hundreds of bleeds buying all the fluid related parts "guessing" and farting with it. When I swapped out the clutch parts, one quick bleed and it was all good. Never even needed the speed bleeder or any of the other crap, a shame.
Your pedal stick to the floor if the RPM hangs out near redline for a while?
My opinion, and I don't know why everyone doesn't say this, if it acts differently at high RPM than low RPM then it's not air in the line or bleeding. I don't think the "sticky" on the sticking pedal even mentions this even though I think it is WAY more likely than the "fluid getting hot" and other crud everyone was feeding me.
Do me a favor, if that turns out to be it please post here and let everyone know.
EDIT: read more about this here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ns-clutch.html
I mention this because you say you are locked out of gears at high RPM. That was the main symptom we were seeing.
I felt like a fool doing the hundreds of bleeds buying all the fluid related parts "guessing" and farting with it. When I swapped out the clutch parts, one quick bleed and it was all good. Never even needed the speed bleeder or any of the other crap, a shame.
Your pedal stick to the floor if the RPM hangs out near redline for a while?
My opinion, and I don't know why everyone doesn't say this, if it acts differently at high RPM than low RPM then it's not air in the line or bleeding. I don't think the "sticky" on the sticking pedal even mentions this even though I think it is WAY more likely than the "fluid getting hot" and other crud everyone was feeding me.
Do me a favor, if that turns out to be it please post here and let everyone know.
EDIT: read more about this here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ns-clutch.html
Last edited by mk3cn4; 01-06-2015 at 07:11 PM.