Jarren_b

Need some help/opinions.

My clutch has been giving me fits the last few months- hard to get into gear, acts like air is in the system, locked out of gears at high rpm, sometimes I have to pump it ect...

I havent seen any fluid loss or leaks and ive been changing my fluid regularly.

Problem is ive seen to different ways to bleed the system

1st way- pump the clutch many times then hold the pedal to the floor, crack the bleeder and then close it with the pedal still down, then release it and repeat

2nd way- pump the clutch many times, take your foot off, crack the bleeder, push the clutch down and then close the bleeder with the pedal on the floor and repeat.

Which is correct?

When I was doing it these ways I wasnt getting much fluid out of the bleeder valve. seemed like something was wrong.

I put in a new master cylinder hoping that was it and still nothing so the only thing I can think it could be is the slave. But as far as my experience has been, when a slave goes, it almost always results in fluid loss.

Another thing that has me baffled is that when I was using the mityvac, it was holding "20" of vacuum and not dropping, which makes me me feel like there isnt a leak. but when I was using it, I was getting an obscene amount of air.

Another question. Are all remote bleeders a "one way valve"? should I be able to crack the bleeder and pump away? without closing it in between?

Im seriously at my wits end with this clutch and it takes away any and all enjoyment out of driving my car.
Im seriously debating just replacing the entire system completely and being done with it.

Am I doing something wrong or is there anything else I can try to get it bled?

First video is using the mityvac without touching the cluth pedal.

the second is building pressure and pumping the clutch.



If I go the route of buying everything new, I understand that GM slaves come pre-bled. Is this correct? and when I install a new speed bleeder wont I be introducing air into the slave?

what would be the procedure for bench bleeding the master cylinder? or bench bleeding the slave?

how do you attach a new throw out bearing to a slave cylinder? Ive never done it but the slave ill be buying will need to have the throwout bearing put on. and yes I know they normally come attached.

Ill be buying a factory LS6 Clutch and flywheel (LUK). will I need to measure for a slave cylinder shim?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure that I cover all the bases before I tackle this project again

Cross

iTrader: (10)

This brings back memories but mine does seem different in that the Master ended up being the issue and an aftermarket handled it on my Vette.

Either way depending on the remote bleeder you should be able to pump away but I just never trusted them... I am a little overly protective or worrisome.

Either way the method I have always used is to pump a few times and hold then crack the bleeder and catch the fluid just using the Vacuum container with no vac attached so I can look for bubbles. Then I close the bleeder, pull the pedal off the floor and start again.

As for trying to vacuum through fluid I never had great results from that but to at least pull fluid through it should work but I always preferred to just pump hold and collect. I could see how dirty, how much and if any air was present and it took maybe 3-4 times to need to refill the reservoir again so it's not a horribly long process.

Here is to hoping it's not the slave as you're in for some fun there.

Jarren_b

Yeah I tried the traditional way for about 3 hours and was getting no pedal at all. And I used a new master when doing this. Yes it was a factory one and not aftermarket but I have a stock ls6 clutch so my factory hydraulics should definitely be up to the task. thanks for the info

Anyone else want to chime in with my other questions? Im leaning towards just replacing everything

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

You have 2 threads with the same post, I replied to your first one, see it here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...sues-help.html