Stewie5409

hello all! Im having a problem with my 2000 Camaros t56. I replaced the clutch while I had the motor out to a McLeod unit and a brand new slave cylinder. went to bleed the clutch and there is no pressure what so ever, and when you press it, about half way down it pops. then it goes to the floor and wont return, unless you pull it up, until halfway up it pops back up to the top. any idea of why this is happening?? could I have put the clutch in wrong perhaps?? any insight is greatly appreciated.

maroonls1z

System isn't bled, keep trying

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

......And right when you start "talking" to it and throwing tantrums about the place because it's still acting funky, refer back to post #2. (Not joking)

maroonls1z

It honestly very hard to do without The right tools, our hydraulic system loves to be pressure bled... Makes life ohhh so easy. You can make one out of a garden sprayer for about 10$ or buy a motive one for about 50$

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

keep bleeding, our hydraulics are a PITA to bleed. Get a helper if you dont have one already and do a gravity bleed to help push all the air out of the slave. Then pump it up and bleed it that should help with the pedal getting stuck. Also really stupid question the arm for the master is attached to the pedal right? happend to me a few times when i switched from an auto to a manual. The reatainer clip wouldnt hold the arm on when the pedal went all the way down. Probably pumped it 20 times before i figured it out......

I just recently went through this, and i sometimes think it takes longer to bleed the clutch than it does to install the damn thing

Stewie5409

yes the pedal is connected. lol the thing is, when I try to bleed it with the clutch pedal, it doesn't suck any in and make the reservoir go lower. Its the stock master cylinder and I didn't take it out of the car ever so I dont know how it couldve gotten broken if it is.ill continue to try to bleed with a vaccum pump tonight and see how it goes.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Stock master cylinder on F-body is crap. Replacement stock master cylinder for F-body is still crap.

It'll seem really expensive at first, but contact tick performance for an adjustable master cylinder. I replaced the stocker twice before getting the expensive tick master, and I have been very happy with the tick master.

WARNING - it is a PITA to get that thing installed, but you only have to do it once.

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

I have a stock type replacement MC with GM slave. Both are new. I'm confident I have the system bled completely. It works smooth as silk even when moderately going through gears. Once turning the RPMs, just cannot shift it fast. It will shift without noise, grinding or kick back. It has that resisting feel which makes it slow. Do you think it's the MC alone causing this? Wanted your opinion since you have replace yours with a Tick MC.

LSxWittles

^ Once I put in my Tick MC (little over a year ago) I no longer had high rpm or fast shifting issues. I would definitely say if you can swing it to get the Tick MC. As Darth_V8r stated tho, that bitch is a HUGE PITA to get in lol. Fought with it for quite some time and had more than my fair share of choice words with it lol.

maroonls1z

Also easier to bleed than a factory master

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Exactly like mine did on the second and third master cylinder. OK granny shifting, but once I did a little "spirited" driving, the shifting would be off. And that was on a drill-modded clutch line, too. I would bleed the black fluid out, and it would sometimes help a bit, but not much. I started to think transmission (140K miles) to be honest. After about 6 months, I started randomly getting a low pedal again, so I ordered a tick with much foul language.

After getting it in and bled, I got it adjusted. it is adjustable, so I set it to where I could, with the engine running, shift effortlessly into each gear from any gear (2nd to 6th or 3rd to 5th to 2nd to 4th to 1st), but with a half turn of the turnbuckle, get resistance in the shifter. The clutch pedal sits a bit lower now. It is almost even with the brake pedal instead of above it. Took a bit of getting used to, because it engages quicker. For about a day, I looked like a teenage girl learning to drive stick. Once I got used to it, though, I'll never go back. The bore is 7/8" vs 3/8", so it moves a TON of fluid. Also, they have a remote bleeder with it for like $50. I could sit in the car, pump the pedal, bleed the clutch. Easiest clutch bleed I've ever done.

Smooth, consistent shifting, good pedal action (though a bit stiffer so remove the spring behind the pedal), good "feel" of the clutch engagement. In the last 8 months, I've missed maybe three shifts, but they were picnic errors (problem in chair, not in car).

Hope that helps

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

And I still use a stock GM slave cylinder, so I know the slave didn't cause or fix it.

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

Meant to say I have a stock type clutch also(second hand but,new in box) Got it for 80.00 bucks is why I installed it. After buying hard parts and doing the recommended upgrades on my rebuild, I couldn't swing the extra 1k to do a Monster clutch and Tick at the same time. Hence a stock clutch and MC went back in because I needed to get the car back on the road. That being said, could the El Cheapo pressure plate cause issues too? I think I've heard this, not sure. But, I'm going for the Tick at least for now. This is the first manual tranny I've ever dealt with in my life time so, it's a new experience.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I totally understand getting it running and going back later to get it right when funds are available.

The pressure plate is a whole different animal. It is self adjusting, which means it is never the same thing twice. You know that thing that happens when you shift, and the clutch pedal comes halfway back up? Then a few times later, it seems to come all the way back up, but you didn't do anything different? Sometimes it has lots of free play and other times none? Those inconsistent pedal return issues tend to be pressure plate related - especially if they are random. When it is brand new, it's ok for a while. It's when the springs on the adjuster fatigue that you start to have the issues from the plate.

What you described - specifically "just can't shift it fast" - honestly sounds master cylinder related - i.e. not moving enough fluid quickly enough. Pedal randomly not returning to full height would make me think pressure plate.

Also, what made me say M/C on Stewie's question and not pressure plate is that the master is not sucking in fluid from the reservoir and that the pedal is consistently not coming off the floor. Both failure modes for the M/C.

The factory clutch is very poor on the F-Body LS1. My theory is that GM hamstrung the clutch at the last minute to save the 7.5" 10-bolt axle from the punishment of a LS1/T56 combination instead of building a 8.5" axle for the F-body. Fluid moves so slowly, it slows the clutch engagement down, softening the blow to the axle.

There are times that you need both the Tick master AND a non-adjusting pressure plate to fully correct the clutch. In your case, though, I think if you install the Tick, you'll get far better performance and if/when you start to get inconsistent pedal return, you can swap in a monster or whatever.

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

Totally agree on the theory you have. It's actually the truth. Why put a restrictor in the fluid line? (did drill mod also and doesn't feel a damn bit different) Tick MC it is. Thanks.

Stewie5409

k, so I bled it a couple times by sucking through the hole in in the reservoir until there were no bubbles, awesome. got in the car and still it "pops" the first inch and a half and wont come all the way up! I thought maybe it wasfine and I just didn't realize it before but with the engine running it still doesn't disengage all the way and the tires spin when trying to put it in gear. I have a bleeder relocation kit on it, could there be a leak in that?/

Stewie5409

how do "pressure" bleed it??

maroonls1z

http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Product...yCnRoCzb_w_wcB

maroonls1z

I also converted a garden sprayer for like 15$ in a pinch once. Point is to push fluid through and out the other side. I also ran my remote bleeder up into the engine bay so it takes 1 minute to bleed the system now