CruzinTA

Just installed a new Tick Master Cylinder this weekend, however i'm sort of confused on the adjustment procedure.. The silver adjustment rod threads on the bronze threaded stud, but you have to hold the stud steady to get the silver rod to turn. So, is there two different adjustments? I held the threaded stud on the MC steady, then turned the silver rod all the way down and it brought the clutch pedal more towards the floor, however if i don't hold the threaded stud still it will turn both the parts and it still adjusts the pedal more towards the floor too.. When if first had everything in the pedal was short travel, but it will still a little notchy so i went to adjust 1 or 2 turns and the notchyness went away but now the clutch starts to grab at the top instead of right off the floor like before.. I guess it's hard to explain lol but i'm wondering if there's two seperate adjustments since you can spin both the silver part and the stud, or you can hold the stud down and adjust just the top part of the rod.. I'm scared i have something adjusted wrong or too tall and don't want to burn up the clutch like it said in the instructions.

Also, i bought the 3' Speed bleeder line from tick, i already had a hole cut in the floor pan for access to the bleed screw but how the heck are you suppose to install the speed bleeder line?? After you take the bleed screw off the slave it's literally impossible to thread the new speed bleeder line onto the slave AND get it a wrench on it to tighten because it's so far inside the tranny.. Am i suppose to drop the whole trans to just install a stupid speed bleeder?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

That adjustment rod is a turnbuckle. One side is left hand threaded and the other is right hand threaded. You turn the turnbuckle one way to make it longer and the other way to make it shorter. Nothing more to it.

The engagement point is higher on a tick compared to stock, because the master cylinder is 7/8" bore instead of 3/8" bore, so it moves more fluid for the same length stroke. The clutch should engage halfway to 3/4 of the way up. The clutch engaging off the floor on your stock master cylinder was actually problematic.

Typically, the clutch pedal height ends up about where the brake pedal is - mine is about 1" lower than the brake. Clutch engages / disengages about 2/3 of the way up. Maybe that reference helps.

I installed the speed bleeder with the new clutch, so I did it with the transmission down. If you have a hole in the floor, you *MIGHT* be able to get it tight with a crows foot on a ratchet extension. I've never tried, so I'm not sure if that would work.

CruzinTA

Yes, exactly what i was looking for thank you for that!

So, i DON'T need to hold the threaded stud coming out of MC still then turn the turnbuckle? i can just stick my hand down there and turn the turnbuckle where it rotates both parts instead of JUST the turnbuckle. I'm probably just over-thinking this whole thing

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

yep! Exactly! after you get the rod length you want (giggedy) tighten the two locking nuts on either side to keep it in place, and you'll be good to go.

Any luck ont he speed bleeder?

CruzinTA

I only have one locking nut?

And i tried and tried and tried to fish the speed bleeder in there, but there was no way i could get a angled wrench or line wrench on the nut. Even went to harbor freight and bought a set of offset angled wrenches, still couldn't get it there far enough