I'll have to double check if it creeps later.

We have a driveway on a hill, so I'm hesitant to take it out, in case I can't get it back into gear for some reason. And putting it on jack stands isn't an option.

I poured another 2 bottles thru yesterday trying to bleed. I used a harbor freight vacuum pump (the one that connects to your air compressor). It wasn't able to suck fluid on its own, so I'm not sure if the tool is a dud, or if I'm looking at something else.

To me the peddle feels similar to when I had the factory clutch. So I'm not sure air is an issue?


If I unplug the solenoid, would it default to a locked out gate? Or open?

I'm also wondering if fluid has something to do with it? I went with 4 quarts of Castrol dex-merc poured in through the shifter.

I'm dreading having to drop the transmission again, so I'd rather trouble shoot as much as possible with all four wheels down.

 

When unplugged the solenoid should be in the same state as key off. I'm not very familiar with the internals of these six speeds, but if it's like a lot of other manual transmissions there is no synchronizer for reverse. That's why reverse is a little harder to get in gear in a lot of other manual transmissions. Try going 4th first then reverse or something like that and see what happens.

 

If you unplug it, it will default "off" allowing you to shift. But, your OP has already ruled out the solenoid. key on, engine off = if solenoid was issue, no shift. Yours shifted fine. Key on, engine on = only difference is rotating parts.

If it helps, the classic test for clutch hydraulics is to shift gears with engine off and engine on. If it shifts fine engine off, but not with engine running, it is in the hydraulics - or you need a shim behind the slave to take up the slack.

The advantage to the adjustable master cylinders (tick, wildwood, ram) is that they move more fluid. It sounds like you just need to move the disc a little further, and you'll be good. I think you'll find that one of those master cylinders will correct your issue. And, you won't need to drop the transmission to try it out.

 

What downside does a tick master, or wildwood master have? Can it do damage to a slave?

 

To me, there has been no downside. Here is the whole skinny:

1. The bore is larger than stock - 7/8" vs 3/8". You can also order it in 3/4" bore. Since the bore on the master is increased, the amount of fluid moved is more than double. This can also increase pedal effort. Going with the 3/4" option will not affect pedal effort as much. Most don't report that it bothers them, but there have been some recent posts that with the spec clutch in particular, it seems heavy. There is a helper spring on the stock master that needs to come out. Sort of tells you how bad the stock master is that it needs a helper spring to lift the pedal. Mine is a monster S3 with the 7/8" tick master, and my wife can drive it in 4" heals, if that helps at guessing at the effort.

2. The drill mod is already done, so there is no restriction in the fluid movement. This dramatically cleans up shifting performance. Especially at high RPM. I haven't had a missed shift in over a year.

3. To compensate for the ability to overstroke the slave, the rod to the clutch is adjustable. You will end up running a lower pedal height than stock. Most end up between 1" below brake pedal height and even with brake pedal height. I prefer this over the stock height, because if I need to get to the brake, the clutch is not interfering. As the clutch wears, you can adjust the rod to compensate, maximizing the clutch life.

4. It is a BIg Time CHore to get it installed. But once it's in, you'll never have to deal with it again. Removing the steering rod in the engine bay helped make some room, but it's tough to say the least.

5. Follow the sticky on how to bench bleed it in the car. This is the best way to do it and guarantee it works properly. I've never had much luck with the other methods and I just follow the sticky. It works well even on stock masters for guaranteeing a good bleed.

Sorry the post was so long, but wanted to give you as complete and accurate a picture as I could.

 

Larger MC=more fluid per stroke.

IIRC McLeod advises a stock MC with their RST/RXT twin. Check with them

if going a larger bore MC take baby steps on adjustment. You don't want to over extend the MC or PP

As Darth notes, since it is a bigger bore it will take less pedal travel to move = fluid as a smaller bore MC will.

OP

when you changed slaves...did you confirm the one you put in was same height as the stock one?

 

There is alot of incorrect info in this post.
1) The reverse solenoid will only activate with the key on
2) High load to reverse key off
3) Low load to gate key on
4) The low load is only available below 5MPH ...so it act like key off above 5MPH
Is it possible you mixed the two solenoid plugs? There are 2 one for revrese the other for skip shift. The plugs are color coded. Black to the reverse solenoid( it also has a black connector) / white plug to skip solenoid( white connector).
Mixing these plugs up might get the probs you have.

 

It didn't even cross my mind to check the slaves. They're both GM units, and the seller I ordered it all from swears in the several hundred he's install, he's never had to shim the GM slave with the McLeod clutch.

Im going to try and jack the car up today and see if I can get an inspection camera into the bellhousinng to make sure the slave isn't bleeding (the tick remote seems to leak sometimes due to the small crush washer).

I haven't seen fluid leaking out of the vent at the front of the bellhousing.... But I guess you never know.

I saw that video online too about sucking fluid up thru the reservoir: I'll try that too.


Here's another question: I torqued the pressure plate to McLeod specs: it says just make sure the fingers are below the body (and they were by a significant amounts). Think it could have any affect? (I'd assume if you torqued too much you wouldn't have any clutch engagement... But I figured I'd ask anyways)

 

I'll double check: I didn't pay a ton of attention to the harness, but it seemed they went in sequence: skip shift first, reverse 1 and reverse 2.


I did remove a SLP skip shift module: I assumed it was tuned out when I got the Long tubes installed and tuned.

 

Only disadvantage of the Tick is that it is a PITA to install, and due to the fact that it is adjustable, you can adjust it wrong and end up damaging your pressure plate.

But still one of the best mods I did to my car

 

yes - if you go with the tick, start adjusting with the clutch pedal as close
to the firewall as you can get, then adjust out. my clutch pedal ended
up a couple inches lower than the brake pedal on my gto. not sure if its
the same on the catfish, but the adjustment process is the same.

 

I'll have to check with what ****** says first, because I've heard it elsewhere as well: that McLeod recommends the factory hydraulics.


I'd probably pull the transmission before trying the master as well: I guess outside of shimming issues and air in the lines, there's always that possibility that the pilot is catching??? Although I still feel I'd hear noise.

 

i'm running a monster lt1s, so no shims needed for that clutch.
cant speak to what mcleod needs.

hope you get it sorted, either way

 

If this were a pilot issue: what symptoms would I have?

 

grinding / whining noise at idle. if its bad enough you will get
vibrations through the shifter.

 

But the noise would be noticeable, no?

 

Both times I had a pilot issue, I would hear it squeaking with the clutch pedal in (disengaged), but it would go quiet with the pedal out in neutral (engaged).

 

Like a loud squeal?

I'm not experiencing it (there's a screech shutting the motor off, but I think that's the new belt), but I want to rule it out

 

like a very rhythmic squeak-squeak-squeak. Pretty high pitched at about 12-15 per second so pretty fast

 

Okay. I haven't noticed that yet.

Well, I have a vacuum bleeder and a pressure bleeder coming tomorrow. So fingers crossed one works. If not: time to take the tranny out again.

I did get the inspection camera in there today: it looked dry in the housing: so I can rule out bad crush washer.