Just trying to sort out a few hiccups with my build (heads/cam/clutch).

For some reason I can't get reverse when the engine is running. When the ignition is on, but the engine is off: reverse selects fine.

You can hear the solonoid working with the clutch inner boot off.

Any ideas?

McLeod RXT
New GM slave
Tick bleeder
New pilot bearing

 

if you have the stock master cylinder that's your problem

 

Here's what I don't get: if it's a master/slave issue: then why is 1st and second gear available? Are they more forgiving or something?

Just curious. It doesn't make sense to me that lower gears are available, but 6 and reverse just disappear.

 

I'm not really sure but i have a stage 3 spec and had sticky pedal and couldn't get it in reverse easily had new slave too, had to keep giving it little jerks until it finally popped into reverse to use it, put a new master cylinder on didnt fix it. finally broke down and got a tick master and it fixed the sticky pedal and the reverse problem

 

Reverse is the least forgiving gear and first to show issues from clutch or hydraulics. If you remove the shifter, can you see if the reverse lockout solenoid is acting squirrelly? Just a thought.

If you have an adjustable master, raising the pedal slightly would probably fix it

 

I'll try bleeding, then I'll see if I need to remove the shifter again... With the rubber boot off, you could hear the solonoid snapping active when you turn the ignition on.... And selecting reverse wasn't an issue with the engine off.

But get the engine turning and reverse just disappears.


There doesn't seem to be any noise with the clutch pushed in, and the car in first (so I'm hoping to rule out damage to the pilot bearing)

 

I'd bet money if you put a tick master on it will solve it, the stock master doesnt push enough fluid for a stock clutch let alone an aftermarket.

 

What symptoms would a bad pilot have? How can I test for that as well, without pulling the transmission again?

 

OP

from this side of the internet, sounds like a hydraulic issue in terms of air in the system. Try bleeding it some more.

Reverse is the most sensitive to revealing clutch disengagement issues typically due to a hydraulic issue

doubt your new pilot bearing is the problem....unless you pulled the tranny in the last 1" with tranny bolts on install

you can put the rear up un jackstands. start car in 1st gear with clutch pedal in...do rear tires move? and same thing in reverse...if yes than you have a clutch disengagement issue typically resolved by bleeding. If bleeding does not resolve than a new MC. As noted a adjustable MC so you could raise the pedal slightly can also resolve this assuming you don't have any air in the system

 

I did have to pull the transmission in with bolts.... But it was maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Went in very easily though (it's not like I needed a cheater bar to pull it in).


The pilot was the correct size (verified on the input shaft before I hammered it home).

I guess I'll get to bleeding

 

If you can get the shifter into the reverse gate, but not into gear, its the master cylander.

If the shifter cannot move to the right if the 5-6 gate, its the solenoid.

 

I'm pretty sure I can get it all the way right when the engine is running: but push up and it's like there's nothing there.

Hard to tell for sure though. Like I said: ignition on but engine off, and it's all there like before.

 

If the solenoid is ruled out, the next bet is to upgrade the master. It's still better the verify the easy things first.

Imagine changing the master to discover it's the solenoid.

 

Any sure fire way to check the solenoid. All that I can confirm is that when the engine is off, I can get to reverse...

I will say I didn't knock it up against the torque arm when installing. But that whole solenoid assembly seems quite robust.

 

only way I know to check is to unplug it and see if that changes the shifting behavior. If not, it ain't the solenoid.

 

If it's unplugged: would it stay engaged? Or would it disengage? (Meaning would it lock out reverse or keep it open?

 

You know what? In your OP, the test you did rules out the solenoid. Key on engine off shifts fine. Key on engine on does not.

That pretty much completely indicates the master is not quite pushing the clutch in far enough. I'll bet if you lift the rear wheels and run the engine with the clutch in and the shifter in a gear (pick one) the wheels would spin.

I went through three replacement stock masters and finally upgraded. You might be in the same position.

 

I recently had to change my reverse lockout solenoid and had the exact same symptoms. Car off I could get it into reverse no problem. Car on and it's like the reverse gate didn't exist.

If you can move the shifter to the right so its in the reverse gate, but not up so that it engages reverse, it is NOT the solenoid.

I'd double check to see if its the solenoid or something else. Swapping out the solenoid is a 20 min job, while swapping out the master is 2+ hours not to mention bleeding if you don't have a speed bleeder

 

I'll give bleeding a shot first.

What do you guys have the best luck with? Bleeding with just the clutch peddle (I have a tick speed bleeder)? Vacuum bleeding? Pressure bleeding?

 

sounds like it needs a shim. reverse lock out is not hard to push past I don't even have mine hooked up. does the car try to creep when in first gear and you rev it?