This is lone, but if any of you guys are thinking of similar mods read on. As I break everything in and start really driving the car I will post updates if people are still interested. All of these constantly talked about mods are now in my SS not a friend of a friends car that I heard about.

The title sums up my mods as of this last week. The Moser 12-bolt with 4.11s is alot quiter than I thought it was going to be. I truely believe this it due to the great job that was done on the install by a Chevrolet dealership mechanic I know. He checked the assembly that job that Moser did to make sure the rear was assembled right. I would recommend the aluminum differential cover for three reason: 1. It makes the already strong 12-bolt stronger, 2. It makes changing the gear oil very easy as the cover comes with a drain and fill plug, and 3. It just looks badass. I will be replacing the gear oil after about 5-800 miles of driving for good measure

Later I will be posting pictures of my slightly used stock clutch . The replacement Spec Stage II is miles beyond what came in the SS. There is no slipping this clutch. You are either going or not is the best way to explain it. Once you are used to it I think you will grow to love it. I went with the stage II over the III or 3i because I frankly don't think I have enough power for either at this point. After MTI gets the car sometime in the future then I will upgrade to the 3i. Bottom line is: no chatter and hold on to your *** when banging the gears.

Pro 5.0 with Lou's Short Stick Hands down one of the most effective cheap mods out there. These two mods were the only installation that I did myself. I am by no means MacGyver and the LS1howto.com directions are perfect. Who ever is responsible for that site, I owe you a drink .I drove the car from the mechanic's shop with the 12-bolt and specII installed with just the stock Hurst. I put the 5.0 and LSS in that night...This shifter is the ****. Much more effecient than the Hurst, so much shorter in fact I keep trying to push the shifter as far as the old Hurst out of habit. About $237 from afterthoughtsaoutomotive.com with tax I think.

To sum up my opinions of these mods are not the type that "There in my car and that's why they are the best crap." If I wasn't completely happy with anything in my car its gone and seen on ebay period. Hope this helps out anyone considering these or similar mods. I will be logged back on this Sunday, but feel free to post any questions or comments.

 

After 4 days no comments or questions....must have been a better write up than I thought.

 

Looks like you enjoy the new setup.The only thing I see that you should of changed was your clutch decission.A stage 3 or 3I would of been better since you would not have to replace it when the engine gets built in the future.

 

Did you upgrade you drive shaft also?

 

Thought about the driveshaft, but I saw no need for the time being. I will probably go with a carbon fiber shaft when I upgrade. Why would I have needed to upgrade now, in your opinion?

 

The driveshaft is the only part in your drivetrain that is not bulletproof. Why not go ahead and make it all bulletproof?

The weak link is now the driveshaft rather then the rear end like before

 

I like the way you think. That is how I convinced my wife into letting me get the 12-bolt. It went sorta like this, "Dear with this new beefed clutch I NEED a beefed up rearend.

 

drive shaft saftey loop hope u get one soon, just in case

 

When I ordered my rear end, they told me I needed a new drive shaft and bmr tubular adjustable torque arm. Are these part really needed right away? I didnt think they did. I am sorta on a budget, so parts that are not really necessary right now, I dont want yet.

 

You either need a new driveshaft or get your stock one shortened. And as for the tq. arm, no, you can use the stock one.

 

You can use a stock length driveshaft. I would definitely recommend not launching hard with the stocker though.

 

Well a few of my friends needed to have their DS shortened for their Moser 12 bolts.

 

By how much are people getting their driveshafts shortened for the Moser? My stock drive shaft is in there now and I was told that it would be fine.

 

No idea man, I'll ask em and letcha know.

 

Did you not try LSS on your factory Hurst? IMO, The factory Hurst feels just as good with LSS. There's many 5.0 users that have problems with the weak springs of the Pro 5.0 along with lots of noise. I took mine out and re-installed the factory Hurst.

I ran my stock DS with the Moser 12 bolt and no issues. I don't suggest hard launches with the stock DS though.

 

I absolutely love the Pro 5.0 with the LSS. I don't know why some people are having issues with noise from them. Mine is quite and I love the feel and feedback it gives me when shifting through the gears. I guess it is just personal preference. I drove with the factory Hurst for 3 years and it feels like a night and day difference for me.

 

drive shaft does not need to be modified, just the U joint.

 

Some of the yokes that came on moser rears were longer for the 1350 ujoint upgrade.Those rears needed a driveshaft about 3/4 " shorter.Of course moser never metioned that fact when you bought the rearend.

 

IV got a moser 12 boolt in my 68 w/ 3.55 but will swap in 4.10 as soon as the car is running. Got a Ram 402/910 and plan on getting the Pro 5.0 w/ LSS. So almost the same setup.

 

With Lous short stick on the factory Hurst its feels very similar to the Pro 5.0. Theres a night and day difference if you leave the stock stick on the factory Hurst. I always encourage people to try the factory Hurst with LSS stick FIRST before spending over $200 on the shifter alone. There's also been numerous people having problems with the weak springs of the Pro 5.0.