HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

That 30% also gives you better feel and better reliability. Not to mention the tilton is rebuildable for about $70

I always hated how easy the oe clutches were.

98_WS6_M6

iTrader: (18)

I've used both HRB setups with the twin and the Tilton drives more like stock than the stock slave. Stock bore master also. But I also do not set my clutch up the way RPS says. They say to use a .2 air gap and after speaking with a few others (not RPS or Carolina clutch) I decided to make the air gap fairly tight with the Tilton so I feel that makes a difference. I'm not worried about the clutch breaking in and fingers moving in one season because Darth drove this clutch 20k miles and it had zero wear, confirmed by RPS. I like a lot of OE parts but I have personally had the stock HRB fail on me 3x and it was the body breaking apart and fittings leaking that failed.

Carolina clutch is awesome. I've spent hours on the phone with them as well. Bob at RPS as well. Mainly because I ruined an entire clutch because of a broken stock HRB slinging fluid all over the clutch.

Darth also drove the stock HRB 20k plus miles so you're fine either way really. And the clutch was designed for a stock hrb so roll with it if you want.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Funny you mention the stock slave coming apart. When I pulled the motor this last time the stock slave came out in six pieces. The only thing holding it together was the trans to engine bolts.

Edit -- full disclosure I did go airborne

That clutch outlasted the Ls1 bottom end and then also the 428 I just pulled. So it does hold up well. I am a bit concerned the next build will overpower it but we will see. Honestly if the new motor overpowers the clutch it likely overpowers the transmission too

The steel version is probably easier to drive. And you still save a chunk of weight vs most options. If you are of the sort that the aluminum one is still too heavy you really need to think about the 7.25 quartermaster or 5.5 tilton.

stevieturbo

I would be concerned as to why your clutch is destroying the slave in such a manner.

That is not normal with any clutch.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Probably had to do with my car going airborne at a railroad crossing

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Fired it up today, it's definitely a revver compared to the Al Fly/LS7 combo. Hope to get on the road when the weather clears up.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Nice!! If you can tune your own and you struggle with return to idle, take a bit of base spark out, add base air, make adaptive spark a bit more aggressive.

NSFW

I'm having an issue with this myself... How much additional spark advance does your tune call for at 100 / 200 / 300 RPM of underspeed?

Thanks!

xc_SS/RS

How do these clutches handle heavier cars? I currently have a LS7/Fidanza combo and it’s decent but a BC2 sounds like the perfect clutch if it barely wears

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

We put a 5.5" tilton in a 5gen. It did fine really. I forget how many passes was on it and street miles.

7.25" does hold up better tho.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Have one in my heavy Chevelle. Works well so far.

xc_SS/RS

he had a good amount on it if I remember correctly

Nice, aluminum or steel flywheel?

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

What are we calling heavy is the big question.....also gearing plays a big role

A 4000 lb car with stock gears appears alot heavier to that clutch than the same vehicle with 3.90's in the rear.

In heavier cars with stock gears a standard BC2 without the windows I CNC around the flywheel might be a better choice but even a 4000 lb car with some gear I would be fine using my lightweight version with the windows in the flywheel

Hope this helps....PM, email, or call if you have any other questions

Regards,
Tony

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I will shoot you a PM. I think it would help for you to see my tune to see how I approached it. And there is a lot behind the method. The madness if you will. Understand the madness and of the method is not quite perfect you can fine tune from there.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Finally moved the car today. 100x better then the ls7 clutch. The lightweight flywheel was the best choice for this super light car because it drives and releases like a stock clutch even with low inertia because I'm so light, only with much better feel and snappy revs. Big fan.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Steel flywheel. Uber smooth clutch. Drives like a stocker.

xc_SS/RS

excellent that’s what I want to hear. Thanks!

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

If your interested in this clutch featured in the thread or any of the RPS line for that matter, get in touch with me.

I helped them develop these clutches using my C5 as one of the major test vehicles for them over a decade ago.

Im friends with the owner and the company is local to me.....lets just say I got real good at installing a clutch in my C5 on a garage floor at the time....LOL (no lift.....this was prior to opening my shop!)

I can help make sure your getting into the right clutch for your application and discuss the slight differences between some of the available options

Regards,
Tony
661-714-1317

lazerlemonta

We put 30 passes on it in 2 days back to back lol. It had around 15k miles of street driving too. Keep in mind this was a 3800 pound fifth gen and total clutch weight was 16 pounds. The 26 pound RPS with aluminum flywheel in a fifth gen is cake to drive Ryan. My BC2 is a great piece but it hinders acceleration for what we are doing so in goes the 7.25" You will never experience anything like a clutch that has low moi for acceleration. I figured man 10 pounds will make a minimal difference. That 10 pounds quadrupled the MOI of the 5.5" likely. I was so wrong and Hio tried to tell me lol I will say this for an all around low maintenance clutch RPS is 100% best option out there. Drives phenomenal and coupled with the tilton HRB it is a great piece. (some people are never satisfied)

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Heavy clutches are just mechanical tq management.