I've had quite a long period of trouble with transmissions, so I made a video in the hopes that someone might learn from my mistakes.

Let me know what you think, even if you think I'm completely wrong about what caused the problems, or why the transmission fix solved the issues.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience. I found this helpful. The stock LS1 clutch does feel really nice. I installed a McLeod twin recently and I'm thinking about removing it and trying something else that feels a little more like the LS1.

 

I found the video helpful as well. My transmission was notchy as hell, and then I went an threw an LS7 clucth in the car. The original issue was a improperly bled clutch, but now still have the same notchy-ness with a perfect install. Wondering if dumping that 60lb clutch for an LS1 and an aluminum flywheel would help out. It really kills driving the car for me.

 

good video , kind of ties in a lot of my observations on my bolt on ls7 clutch car , only reason besides $$ its still in there is nothing has failed lol but I am not pushing it like you did. I have wondered if a light flywheel may be enough to make the LS7 clutch work better and the logic from your observations lead me to the conclusion that it could only help by reducing the mass of inertia.

 

Glad you guys enjoyed it!

The way I run the car is actually pretty easy on the clutch. Stock engine in a 3168lb car, and I rarely slip it or ask it for a hard launch anymore. The stock clutch with aluminum flywheel has been the perfect solution for me.

When I ran the LS7 with the steel flywheel it felt like I had attached the mass of a small planet to my engine.

As far as the shift feel, the aluminum flywheel didn't make any difference, but the engine did come back to life.

 

I sold my 440rwhp heads/cam LS1 RX-7 to a buddy and it had a Fidanza alum flywheel and single disc Ram clutch. When that gave up the ghost he installed an LS7 clutch/LS2 steel flywheel and said it rev'd noticeably slower....

 

Some of the small diameter clutches would be a lot lighter than even the stock friction plate...simply because it isnt just weight that is important, but the where the weight is on any given diameter.

As for oils and additives....even different brands or types of oil can make a huge difference. Just because something has a fancy brand name, or huge price tag doesnt mean it's always the best.

On older Subarus that can often crunch into 3rd or 5th, just a simple change to Castrol Syntrax semi synthetic can really work wonders.

Given carbon blockers and different materials used these days, I often wondered how a LSD friction modifier might interact with these materials and how the blockers work. If it did assist with friction...it should help them slow things down to enable nice shifts.

The other thing not mentioned here, is to ensure the clutch does fully disengage and there are no mechanical or hydraulic issues causing the disc to drag.