chrisdiaz288

NEED HELP!

I have a 1999 Camaro z28 with a six speed manual transmission. I've been having what I believe to be clutch problems, but I'm not positive. Last night I started my car like normal (in neutral when I started it) pressed the clutch in and it wouldn't go into reverse. I thought it might be just me doing something wrong since I've never felt anything wrong with my transmission before. Well I forced it into reverse and when I went to take it out of reverse it wouldn't budge I pressed my clutch in but it wouldn't leave reverse. After a few attempts I got it out. Now my car won't go into any gear 1-6 or reverse if it does go into a gear it won't come out of it and will stall after a few seconds. Do these sound like symptoms of an old/wornout clutch? I have money to buy a new clutch, but don't want to spend so much on a twin disk does anyone have a recommendation. Any replies will help thank you in advance and sorry for the long post.

Ace111799

iTrader: (6)

Sounds more like hydraulics. Check your clutch reservoir and make sure there is fluid in it. If so pump the pedal a couple times then see if it goes in gear.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

It does sound like a hydraulic issue mixed with a pressure plate that will not disengage/engage properly.

Here is what we recommend!
GM LS7 clutch kit
GM Fbody slave cylinder
GM Fbody Master cylinder
Remote speed bleeder

All of those parts together will give you one great setup with no measuring, not fooling around, just bolt in and GO!

Keep in mind though sometimes the issue with the vehicle going into reverse can also be due to the plastic fork pads breaking on the fork itself inside of the transmission or the reverse synchronizer slider being worn, BUT since you are having an issue in every gear, it is likely all the exterior parts that would need attention.

2 other parts we HIGHLY recommend are
GM Pilot bearing
and
RAM clutch alignment tool

Since you will be in there anyway having all new parts in there is a very good idea and replacing all the hydraulics at once is good as well as they will then operate as a brand new unit.
If you order all the extra parts on the clutch page, receive a package discount as well! (the gm master cyl is no an option on that page so purchase it separate)
Remember, any orders over $100 get free shipping also!!

slogo

^^^^ That is one heck of a way to fix something, but you forgot, while your there you
might as well replace the trans, and might as well replace drive shaft, and then a ford 9in
and if you are going to the trouble of all that, we recomend a LS7 in there. then we would be 97%
sure to fix your problem. remember shipping is free.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

Maybe I am not understanding what you really mean, but if he is having clutch issues and his parts are all stock (assuming of course) then they are over 16 years old in the first place. Secondly while you have the trans out, you might as well replace what you can on a decent budget. I am not trying to sell him on the most expensive parts available, but honestly customers but most of this when doing a clutch swap/install anyway.
We are a vendor and we do sell parts obviously, but I am not telling him to replace everything or fail. I gave him suggestions and did not go on some rant.

IF a customer is having a problem with his clutch and we JUST tell him to change x part and it happens to be wrong or not the only issue, then we get crucified doing that as well. So which is it?

Personally, I only like to take the trans out once. Replacing 16 year old parts with brand new pieces will show the weak point in that part of the system soon enough, like a weak master or slave cylinder. And if it is the slave cylinder, then you pull the trans again.

chrisdiaz288

Ace111799
Thank you I did what you said I used dot 3 brake fluid and I can now put it into gear although it seams to be grinding when I go in and out of gear like if my clutch isn't fully engaged

chrisdiaz288

Tech@ws6store thank you for the reply I looked into your ls7 clutch and your right it would be a more stout clutch, every other item was very affordable as well, my clutch was put in new about 5 thousand miles before it was a oe clutch I believe

chrisdiaz288

Slogo that was funny man you made me laugh and I dropped my orange juice thanks man

chrisdiaz288

Tech@ws6store thank you again I'll make sure to buy me an ls7 clutch from your website if I do buy one in the near future

dailydriver

Even though this was meant to be funny and snide, it actually IS the truth with these cars, since so much is inaccessible until things come apart for OTHER work already being done.

I.E.; lifters can NOT be changed without heads being pulled, so why not upgrade?
If the engine has to be dropped to do most of the work on it, OR if it is being replaced, why not do clutch/flywheel/pilot/master and slave-throwout at the same time and save the labor which will cost later.

My car needs a steering rack, so WHY NOT replace that when the k member is down with the old engine which is being replaced by a built up LS2/3 combo?
My 10 bolt is whining like a cry baby, so why not upgrade it to handle that new engines 500 crank, even though it will ONLY be on either street or autocross tires, and NEVER EVER launched on DRs/slicks to a quick 60 foot???

My brake calipers will also need to be replaced, since the bleeders are TOTALLY FROZEN/COLD WELDED/RUSTED shut, and the engine CANNOT be dropped without cracking open the brake lines.

One thing DOES lead to another with these cars, especially when one is hamstrung by F'ING HOA rules, and are FORBIDDEN from even having their hoods open in their OWN driveways, let alone any major work being done in parking spaces.