Alright so I've been having high RPM, WOT shifting problems with my 2001 TA for about 7 or so months now. I pulled the stock master cylinder and did the drill mod on it, and that great improved shifting feel and made it possible to shift at around 4,000 RPM at WOT, where as before the drill mod I couldn't shift above 3,000 RPM. However, I want to be able to shift full on out at WOT at redline, because, ya know, it's a Trans Am. My question is, what do I do to achieve this?


I have no problem spending the coin for the Tick Master Cylinder, IF it will 100% fix my problem. But, I don't want to spend the money if it won't. I also would rather not pull the transmission to replace the slave cylinder, but if it would fix my problem, I would. So my dilemma is I need to know exactly what is wrong before spending time and/or money throwing parts at it.


The clutch pedal itself feels great. There is about 1 inch of free travel on the pedal at the top before it has pressure, and as I said it feels great, firm but not too firm and it ALWAYS returns, not once has it ever stuck to the floor. The master cylinder reservoir is always full, but no matter how many time's I've bled the thing and put in new fluid, it comes up black as ink in a matter of minutes. But, it doesn't seem to be leaking. Under the car, there is a small power steering leak and a valve cover gasket leak (new gaskets are on order), which makes it impossible to tell if any fluid is leaking out of the bellhousing from the slave.


So what should I do? Does this sound like something the Tick MC will solve, or do I need a new slave? Also, at WOT redline shifts, it will go into gear but grinds like a mother******, and it happens in all gears at WOT. The grind got better after the drill mod, but is still ever present.

 

What kind of clutch do you have?

 

I'm guessing you have an LS1? On my Z06, the Tick MC was the only thing that fixed my issues. I tried a new factory master/slave and that didn't do it so I threw in a Spec Stage 1 thinking the issue might have been the self adjusting PP to no avail. The Spec was something I'd wanted anyway as it shaved 20# of rotating mass. Finally got the Tick MC and haven't looked back since.

 

I have the stock LS1, most likely on the stock clutch. The PO didn't mention the clutch having been replaced. That being said, the clutch never slips and engagement feels great at anything below 4,000 RPM

 

So if you shift gears above 4k rpm it's grinding? If this is all stock, how many miles on everything?

 

148,000 miles, and yes, it grinds and is difficult to go into gear above 4,000 rpm, sometimes impossible.

 

All I can say is I would do everything. Get a new clutch, & replace the slave, along with a new master. Hoping the problem isn't in the transmission itself.

 

The problem with the "do everything" approach is that I don't have a money tree growing out back. If it needs a new clutch, it will get a new clutch. If it needs a new transmission, it will get one. But, the car runs like an absolute champ, and on the oh-so-precious-and-few instances it will go into gear smoothly at high rpm, it pulls like a freight train. The problem is disengagement of the clutch, not the clutch itself. If I need to pull the transmission, and in doing so I find a ragged out clutch, I'll replace it. But I'm trying to determine if a Tick MC will solve my issue instead. I appreciate the input, and I may be looking for definitive answer where there are none.

 

Sometimes new clutch AND new master are both needed to correct shifting issues. Generally if DISengagement is the issue is go to the master. If REengagement or pedal return are the issue of go to the pressure plate. Those are both generalities

 

The master is way easier to do, so why not just try that first?

 

Like I stated, that's just what I would want to do. I understand about the money thing. Wish I had a money tree lol. As supercharged stated, I guess start with the master & go from there. Good luck man.

 

So if my slave is not leaking. my pedal always returns to proper height and the clutch reengages perfectly, and the shifting problem is intermittent (in severity, it always happens above 4K RPM), is there a fair to good chance that changing the MC to a Tick adjustable will solve my issue? I guess worst case scenario it is a days worth of work and $50 for a slave cylinder if it doesn't fix the issue.

 

Honestly my guess is the problem is in the tranny from what I hear. It is just a guess though.

 

Have a brand new tick MC for sale if you go that route PM me