Clutch replacement cost and shop recommendations
11-20-2016, 09:41 PM
#1
Clutch replacement cost and shop recommendations Hi all. I'm the original owner of a 99 Z28 with 150,xxx miles and still on the stock clutch. I believe my clutch is starting to go - at times when I'm keeping the clutch is right at the grabbing point (such as easing it up on ramps to do an oil change, or similar), I can hear a slipping/whining noise and I smell something burning just after that.
Assuming that my clutch is going, it sounds like the consensus stock replacement is the LS7 kit. That sounds good, but I don't really have a go-to shop to take this to. I try to do all my own maintenance, but a clutch replacement is really out of my league. I had a shop that I trust give me a quote on this, and it was in the neighborhood of $1,800 - I think that's significantly more than it should be based on a few threads I've read.
Anyone have any ballpark estimates of what I should be paying for an LS7 install, parts and labor? And I know it's a long shot, but anyone have any recommendations for a trustworthy and economical shop here in Portland OR? Is this a job that any old shop would be capable of? I'm a little OCD/paranoid with regards to who I let work on my car.
Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks.
Assuming that my clutch is going, it sounds like the consensus stock replacement is the LS7 kit. That sounds good, but I don't really have a go-to shop to take this to. I try to do all my own maintenance, but a clutch replacement is really out of my league. I had a shop that I trust give me a quote on this, and it was in the neighborhood of $1,800 - I think that's significantly more than it should be based on a few threads I've read.
Anyone have any ballpark estimates of what I should be paying for an LS7 install, parts and labor? And I know it's a long shot, but anyone have any recommendations for a trustworthy and economical shop here in Portland OR? Is this a job that any old shop would be capable of? I'm a little OCD/paranoid with regards to who I let work on my car.
Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks.
11-21-2016, 11:03 AM
#2
any shop is going to charge full retail + on the parts alone. Then x hrs at around $100 hr for labor....they are in biz to make $. Nothing wrong with that but for point & pay guys it can cost.
Maybe someone in your area can identify a good shop. Contact the dealership and get a quote to compare with independent shops.
Generally when you bring in your own parts they don't warranty their work against part failure unless you buy the part from them
Your clutch slipping while feathering it pulling up ramps and then smelling some clutch burn is not really a good indicator of a clutch being bad. 150k mi though is certainly the high side of its life span. While driving up a hill put the car in 4th around 35-40 mph. Floor it. If it slips its bad. If it holds and the car bogs it is good.
Either you or the shop should also remove the old hydraulic fluid out with a plastic syringe and refill with new. Do this several times after short driving to replenish as much of the fluid with new. If the fluid is original it needs replacing. Easy job to do yourself.
Maybe someone in your area can identify a good shop. Contact the dealership and get a quote to compare with independent shops.
Generally when you bring in your own parts they don't warranty their work against part failure unless you buy the part from them
Your clutch slipping while feathering it pulling up ramps and then smelling some clutch burn is not really a good indicator of a clutch being bad. 150k mi though is certainly the high side of its life span. While driving up a hill put the car in 4th around 35-40 mph. Floor it. If it slips its bad. If it holds and the car bogs it is good.
Either you or the shop should also remove the old hydraulic fluid out with a plastic syringe and refill with new. Do this several times after short driving to replenish as much of the fluid with new. If the fluid is original it needs replacing. Easy job to do yourself.
11-21-2016, 11:18 AM
#3
If I outsource a shop, I buy all of my parts to make sure of what goes in it.
From Tick:
Clutch alone will be $555 with the alignment tool.
I highly recommend their upgrade kit with the tick MC since it has everything including a new GM slave shim pack (in case yours needs shims) and a speed bleeder (an absolute wonderful thing to have). It is $1000 http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...-firebird-ls1/
That being said, even with all of that stuff, I would only expect to pay $600 to have it all installed including the MC. It was my first time doing a MC (complete newb) and I had the Tick unit in and hooked up in less than an hour.
I'm a shrimpy 130# guy and with a good floor jack, a couple of bottle jacks (to raise car even higher), a trans jack (purchased to do the job), and some tall jack stands, I had it done, by myself in about 8 hours total time (this included doing the rear main, the cover gasket, and replacing the crankshaft oil plug-unexpected surprise from previous owner **** up).
Speaking of that, make sure the shop (or whomever does this job) doesn't use the grease method of removing the pilot bearing. Pullers are required. I bought mine for less than $20 from Auto zone (ordered and purchased their normal loaner set).
All in all, I was out about around $1050 for parts. $180 for a decent trans jack. And 8 hours of my time. I watched these videos to help:
No worries on the dowel pins for the LS7 clutch- they're already installed.
From Tick:
Clutch alone will be $555 with the alignment tool.
I highly recommend their upgrade kit with the tick MC since it has everything including a new GM slave shim pack (in case yours needs shims) and a speed bleeder (an absolute wonderful thing to have). It is $1000 http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...-firebird-ls1/
That being said, even with all of that stuff, I would only expect to pay $600 to have it all installed including the MC. It was my first time doing a MC (complete newb) and I had the Tick unit in and hooked up in less than an hour.
I'm a shrimpy 130# guy and with a good floor jack, a couple of bottle jacks (to raise car even higher), a trans jack (purchased to do the job), and some tall jack stands, I had it done, by myself in about 8 hours total time (this included doing the rear main, the cover gasket, and replacing the crankshaft oil plug-unexpected surprise from previous owner **** up).
Speaking of that, make sure the shop (or whomever does this job) doesn't use the grease method of removing the pilot bearing. Pullers are required. I bought mine for less than $20 from Auto zone (ordered and purchased their normal loaner set).
All in all, I was out about around $1050 for parts. $180 for a decent trans jack. And 8 hours of my time. I watched these videos to help:
11-21-2016, 11:49 AM
#4
Thanks for the replies BALL and flyboy.
Agreed - they have employees to pay and a shop to run. However, for the same clutch kit and prices shown here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...formation.html
- their markup was over 50% for the clutch kit, and 100% for the slave cylinder. Seems excessive to me. The labor part of the quote was around $600 - does that seem like a fair price?
When I do the uphill bog test, my clutch does NOT slip - it holds just fine. So any idea what my symptoms could be? It is definitely something new, as I have driven it up on ramps many times over its lifetime, and have never seen these symptoms before.
Would you recommend I try this as a first course of action? This sounds like something I could manage.
- their markup was over 50% for the clutch kit, and 100% for the slave cylinder. Seems excessive to me. The labor part of the quote was around $600 - does that seem like a fair price?
Your clutch slipping while feathering it pulling up ramps and then smelling some clutch burn is not really a good indicator of a clutch being bad. 150k mi though is certainly the high side of its life span. While driving up a hill put the car in 4th around 35-40 mph. Floor it. If it slips its bad. If it holds and the car bogs it is good.
Would you recommend I try this as a first course of action? This sounds like something I could manage.
11-21-2016, 11:49 AM
#5
My shop charged me $350 for the install and I supplied the material. I did my own H/C and 9" install but just didn't want to mess with the clutch. If I had a lift etc It would have been different.
I would look into a Monster or TDP stage 1 clutch instead of the LS7. Not much more if you get them on sale (black Friday sales) and a much better clutch, will still drive like stock. Personally I would look for a performance shop in your area that works on f-bodys instead of some random shop. Check the sponsor section to see what sales they have.
I would definitely try changing the clutch fluid first. Almost every time I drive my car I suck out the clutch reservoir and put in new fluid.
I would look into a Monster or TDP stage 1 clutch instead of the LS7. Not much more if you get them on sale (black Friday sales) and a much better clutch, will still drive like stock. Personally I would look for a performance shop in your area that works on f-bodys instead of some random shop. Check the sponsor section to see what sales they have.
I would definitely try changing the clutch fluid first. Almost every time I drive my car I suck out the clutch reservoir and put in new fluid.
11-22-2016, 11:02 AM
#6
if your clutch has 150k mi on it....it has hit the end of its lifespan. Most never get that kind of mileage out of them.
If you are having a shop also install new hydraulics, or at least a MC, than they would bleed the system and you would have fresh fluid
Clutch swap is not a small job. several other components need to come off beyond just the transmission. None of it is rocket science, just wrenching. If you have a floor jack, stands, tranny jack, sockets, wrenches, extensions and follow a "how to" be it service manual or video and have some mechanical skills you can do this. Otherwise expect to pay a shop for labor. If you provide the parts you can expect the shop to charge higher labor as they would be losing their profit on the parts side. Shops generally just buy "replacement" clutch kits from whatever parts supplier they use vs something like a Monster clutch kit
11-22-2016, 12:44 PM
#7
Clutch kit can be had for $220ish if you shop through cash back sites. http://www.partsgeek.com/mcpj12g-che...lutch-kit.html
You got 150k on your first stock MC, so no reason to think you couldn't just get a new one and be fine. Speed bleeder for sure, those are only $40 or so.
You could have all the parts for $300ish, then a few hundred for labor seems reasonable. A shop with a lift and power tools and a trans jack should be able to do this easily. Some of the bolts are kind of a pain and the master is in a crappy spot but it's nothing that can't be done.
You got 150k on your first stock MC, so no reason to think you couldn't just get a new one and be fine. Speed bleeder for sure, those are only $40 or so.
You could have all the parts for $300ish, then a few hundred for labor seems reasonable. A shop with a lift and power tools and a trans jack should be able to do this easily. Some of the bolts are kind of a pain and the master is in a crappy spot but it's nothing that can't be done.