Manual Conversion Wiring
For the manual swap, I am supposed to take the wide connector in the console, and run the dark green wire and the purple with white stripe wire and run them into the black clutch switch to allow the engine to start only with the clutch depressed. This also matches the colors of wire from the black clutch switch I pulled at the junkyard, so I have little reason to doubt it.
In the wiring harness re-pin guide, I am told, "The clutch pedal position sensor needs to be wired in. If not, code P0704 should be disabled and a grounded pigtail inserted in the Blue C1-32 connector." And another guide lists C1-32 as "grey wire, CPP Switch Signal (clutch switch)"
First, since there are only two switches on the clutch pedal: the black starter one, and the white cruise cancel switch, I assume by "clutch pedal position sensor" they mean the black one.
Second, does connecting these two green/purple wires to the black switch suffice? Or do I need to connect C1-32 to the green or purple wire somehow? I may have misunderstood this, so I already pre-ran a wire from C1-32 to the clutch pedal. At this point, if it should be wired in here, it is a trivial step.
Actually, the white cruise cancel clutch switch has a grey wire and black wire with white stripe that currently go nowhere, so perhaps this is where C1-32 should go?
I cannot test anything, as the engine and battery are out of the car. What to do?
Now with Pin A and Pin B, here's what you do..
Take a look at the switch # 27 there in the diagram and find it on your Petals. Take one of the Wires and clip it about 3" away from the Connector(basically give yourself enough to splice it to another wire). Now with that one wire you clipped, run that to Pin A on the Clutch Anticipation Switch Connector and splice it in. With Pin B, splice that to the other clipped wire.
Doing this will make this a series circuit, and when you push the Clutch it will disengage the cruise, as well as if you push in the Brake too.
Refer to this edited diagram if you need to..



As you can see here, the #28 style "clutch anticipate switch" already is wired in series with the brake cruise cancel switch, so either can cancel the cruise control. The red and brown wires plug directly into the factory auto harness at the top for this purpose.
To the right, you see the gray and black with white stripe wires. According to what I found in the thread above, the gray will go to C1-32 at the ECU, and black will go to ground. If you look in the fuzzy background, you will notice I just so happen to have a red wire/black wire pair waiting for me. The red goes to C1-32, and black to ground already, so I am good to go!
It looks like the black #29 clutch/start switch is only those first purple, green wires. Nothing else.
Last edited by eb110americana; Jun 4, 2017 at 04:01 AM.
The clutch safety switch was also wires matching of I remember correctly
The only thing I didn't do in my swap was wiring the reverse lockout solenoid to my ecu, I put an extra spring into the passengers side of my hurst shifter centering springs to make it harder to go into 6th, and damn near impossible to go into reverse. You have to fight the spring pretty hard to go in reverse
Wiring
I connected the orange/black wires for the hatch release:

I ran the green/purple wires up to the clutch switch (pic showing which wires I cut and extended) :
this pic shows the plug that use to go into the automatic transmission shifter assembly. It now will be used for the m6

I extended the wire for the VSS on the side of the transmission, and I snipped out the brown and light green wires that used to be in the big plug on the 4L60E and attached them to a pigtail for the reverse lights.
For the reverse lockout, I tapped into the blue wire on the brake light switch and ran it down to the connector, and then the other to ground.
the blue plug is the brake light switch. The white plug is the brake depression switch
Last edited by Bombader; Oct 6, 2019 at 11:02 AM. Reason: Clarification
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(already have the brake switch) I need to hit a junkyard I guess.