breaking in a TR6060, help?
10-11-2017, 01:44 AM
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breaking in a TR6060, help? hello all! i know this is a bit off the LS specific path now, but i still own my f body, and this is generic stuff anyway. So I'm the proud new owner of a 2015 scat pack challenger! bought the car with 27,000 miles, and a stripped out 5th gear and ground down reverse. Dodge dealer replaced the whole trans with a new unit. (TR6060) under warranty.
I picked the car up, after getting the new trans in and immediately noticed the throw out bearing making noise. drove the car about 20 miles. let it rest. made a couple trips like that. noticed that 2nd was kind of difficult to find at certain times. decided to test it out on the interstate after putting 50 or so miles on it. down shifted to 3rd and floored it. didn't do a no lift shift, but i jammed it into 4th pretty hard and fast... tires barked. let off at about 100. got off interstate. rolled a couple blocks, then when taking off from a light, 2nd whined louder than a kenne belle with pulley swap. weird considering 2nd had not ever been beat on (just blows the tires off anyway.) i called the dealer to let them know they may want to take the car back, before the brand new trans grenades itself. this was like a Saturday or something. guy says to bring it in on Tuesday and take a drive in it with the tech... I just raised my eyebrows and said, okay... its y'alls bill, not mine. not 35 miles after the whining started. Im assuming the trans started trying to swallow its own teeth or something. it felt like it would jump and pull hard against the car. did this for 1/2 a mile... 10x maybe. then a harder jolt, followed by something making my car slow down aggressively and not letting go. it put it in 4th and gave it about 400 ft lbs of torque and it changed its mind. i pulled over on an off ramp checked to see if it was a ujoint, or sticking brake, or something obvious. just seen a steady drip comeing from the bellhousing area. went to try to drive the car to the dealer as i was only a couple of miles away... made it about 4 foot, rear tires lock and skid, car is stuck is in 1st. wont budge. towed to dealer.
Now another brand new trans. no throw out bearing noise this time. yay! drive it off the lot, drives good. no vibrations. i notice 2nd is sometimes not as easy to fall in as the rest of the gears still. but nowhere near as bad as the last trans that locked up. no funky noises. ive got about 300 miles of short trips on it now. ive yet to give it over 30% throttle.
any expert on these tremec units can tell me? :
is there a break in period, or do they come broke in? the tech only drove the car 5 miles... dealer gave me no instructions.
what about fluid? need changed at 500? or???
should i be babying the car for a certain amount of time?
not sure about other models, but the units in the challengers are notoritous for having a clunk or a grind on the 1-2 shift at high RPM. im thinking that is what i will have in my near future. maybe i can upgrade shift forks and syncro's at dealers labor?
i plan on installing a barton short throw, anybody here have one or driven one? any issues out of it, or how it changed existing trans quirks? ive driven one with a hurst. it was nice, a bit stiff. but the barton's are being praised over all others at the moment.
I picked the car up, after getting the new trans in and immediately noticed the throw out bearing making noise. drove the car about 20 miles. let it rest. made a couple trips like that. noticed that 2nd was kind of difficult to find at certain times. decided to test it out on the interstate after putting 50 or so miles on it. down shifted to 3rd and floored it. didn't do a no lift shift, but i jammed it into 4th pretty hard and fast... tires barked. let off at about 100. got off interstate. rolled a couple blocks, then when taking off from a light, 2nd whined louder than a kenne belle with pulley swap. weird considering 2nd had not ever been beat on (just blows the tires off anyway.) i called the dealer to let them know they may want to take the car back, before the brand new trans grenades itself. this was like a Saturday or something. guy says to bring it in on Tuesday and take a drive in it with the tech... I just raised my eyebrows and said, okay... its y'alls bill, not mine. not 35 miles after the whining started. Im assuming the trans started trying to swallow its own teeth or something. it felt like it would jump and pull hard against the car. did this for 1/2 a mile... 10x maybe. then a harder jolt, followed by something making my car slow down aggressively and not letting go. it put it in 4th and gave it about 400 ft lbs of torque and it changed its mind. i pulled over on an off ramp checked to see if it was a ujoint, or sticking brake, or something obvious. just seen a steady drip comeing from the bellhousing area. went to try to drive the car to the dealer as i was only a couple of miles away... made it about 4 foot, rear tires lock and skid, car is stuck is in 1st. wont budge. towed to dealer.
Now another brand new trans. no throw out bearing noise this time. yay! drive it off the lot, drives good. no vibrations. i notice 2nd is sometimes not as easy to fall in as the rest of the gears still. but nowhere near as bad as the last trans that locked up. no funky noises. ive got about 300 miles of short trips on it now. ive yet to give it over 30% throttle.
any expert on these tremec units can tell me? :
is there a break in period, or do they come broke in? the tech only drove the car 5 miles... dealer gave me no instructions.
what about fluid? need changed at 500? or???
should i be babying the car for a certain amount of time?
not sure about other models, but the units in the challengers are notoritous for having a clunk or a grind on the 1-2 shift at high RPM. im thinking that is what i will have in my near future. maybe i can upgrade shift forks and syncro's at dealers labor?
i plan on installing a barton short throw, anybody here have one or driven one? any issues out of it, or how it changed existing trans quirks? ive driven one with a hurst. it was nice, a bit stiff. but the barton's are being praised over all others at the moment.
10-11-2017, 06:01 AM
#2
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Sure they even put any fluid in it ??
The trans should work well pretty much from the word go. Sounds like somebody working on it needs a bit of a slap.
If you jack the rear up and start the car. Press clutch down fully and engage any gear and see if the rear wheels want to turn.
Issue could be clutch related, either hydraulics, or a mechanical issue itself.
The trans should work well pretty much from the word go. Sounds like somebody working on it needs a bit of a slap.
If you jack the rear up and start the car. Press clutch down fully and engage any gear and see if the rear wheels want to turn.
Issue could be clutch related, either hydraulics, or a mechanical issue itself.
10-11-2017, 07:20 PM
#3
500 mi with moderate power up and downshifts through the range and a fluid change should have you good.
Early TR6060s had sintered bronze blockers that didn't perform well in 2nd and 3rd, especially when cold. Current svc. replacement units should have the hybrid/carbon blockers and have far less issues.
You won't get upgrades at dealer labor. Save your receipts for the fluid change in case you visit the dealer again.
Early TR6060s had sintered bronze blockers that didn't perform well in 2nd and 3rd, especially when cold. Current svc. replacement units should have the hybrid/carbon blockers and have far less issues.
You won't get upgrades at dealer labor. Save your receipts for the fluid change in case you visit the dealer again.
10-15-2017, 12:49 AM
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Sure they even put any fluid in it ??
The trans should work well pretty much from the word go. Sounds like somebody working on it needs a bit of a slap.
If you jack the rear up and start the car. Press clutch down fully and engage any gear and see if the rear wheels want to turn.
Issue could be clutch related, either hydraulics, or a mechanical issue itself.
The trans should work well pretty much from the word go. Sounds like somebody working on it needs a bit of a slap.
If you jack the rear up and start the car. Press clutch down fully and engage any gear and see if the rear wheels want to turn.
Issue could be clutch related, either hydraulics, or a mechanical issue itself.
10-15-2017, 12:51 AM
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500 mi with moderate power up and downshifts through the range and a fluid change should have you good.
Early TR6060s had sintered bronze blockers that didn't perform well in 2nd and 3rd, especially when cold. Current svc. replacement units should have the hybrid/carbon blockers and have far less issues.
You won't get upgrades at dealer labor. Save your receipts for the fluid change in case you visit the dealer again.
Early TR6060s had sintered bronze blockers that didn't perform well in 2nd and 3rd, especially when cold. Current svc. replacement units should have the hybrid/carbon blockers and have far less issues.
You won't get upgrades at dealer labor. Save your receipts for the fluid change in case you visit the dealer again.