T56 overhaul and new clutch
#21
9 Second Club
IMO a 3mm gap will be far too small and leave you with no gap in a very short space of time as the clutch wears and fingers get higher.
I'd be happy with 8mm.
I'd be happy with 8mm.
#22
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Thanks Steve,
spoken with tdp just. I got 8mm, there is a 3mm shim in kit. So will give me 5mm for as you said, wear and break in.
btw, what turbo you run?
regards
gav
spoken with tdp just. I got 8mm, there is a 3mm shim in kit. So will give me 5mm for as you said, wear and break in.
btw, what turbo you run?
regards
gav
#25
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Disaster...
Oh well,
all that effort replacing clutch, inners of gearbox...
it drove ok for first 1/2 mile taking it steady and has got progressively worse from then. When warm cant change down gear, gears tight and wont go in. God i hope its just a bleed problem but getting no bubbles in line when bleeding with extension bleeder. Massive job for me to rip box back out again though in tiny garage space.
need a beer...
regards
gav
all that effort replacing clutch, inners of gearbox...
it drove ok for first 1/2 mile taking it steady and has got progressively worse from then. When warm cant change down gear, gears tight and wont go in. God i hope its just a bleed problem but getting no bubbles in line when bleeding with extension bleeder. Massive job for me to rip box back out again though in tiny garage space.
need a beer...
regards
gav
#28
9 Second Club
So it changes gear ok with engine off ?
So it sounds like the clutch is dragging ?
It does seem some clutches have issue with ARP bolts...where these used ? As they are taller some clutch discs can foul and cause dragging. This should be obvious if you take it apart.
But would depend on how thick the centre section of clutch plate is, depth of flywheel recess for bolts etc etc
Or it may be insufficient travel at the slave, better bleeding, whatever.
getting a visual as to what is happening in there will help, cheap USB bore scopes are dirt cheap and would only need a small hole drilled to get some access.
So it sounds like the clutch is dragging ?
It does seem some clutches have issue with ARP bolts...where these used ? As they are taller some clutch discs can foul and cause dragging. This should be obvious if you take it apart.
But would depend on how thick the centre section of clutch plate is, depth of flywheel recess for bolts etc etc
Or it may be insufficient travel at the slave, better bleeding, whatever.
getting a visual as to what is happening in there will help, cheap USB bore scopes are dirt cheap and would only need a small hole drilled to get some access.
#29
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Hi all,
thought i would update this.
Took it to a gearbox centre, he stripped it down and found issue straight away. I missed one c clip out......he said it was perfect apart from that....i felt so dumb. My only saving grace was it was item 13 in the manuel which is not showing in the manuel pdf, it is blanked out. It shows number 13, and a line pointing to nothing.....grrrrrr.
Anyway, thanks all, my first and hopefully last gearbox stripdown.
Also thanks to Jason at TDP. Clutch stage 2 is slightly heavier and grabbier but makes those shifts at high rpm easier.
Regards
gav
thought i would update this.
Took it to a gearbox centre, he stripped it down and found issue straight away. I missed one c clip out......he said it was perfect apart from that....i felt so dumb. My only saving grace was it was item 13 in the manuel which is not showing in the manuel pdf, it is blanked out. It shows number 13, and a line pointing to nothing.....grrrrrr.
Anyway, thanks all, my first and hopefully last gearbox stripdown.
Also thanks to Jason at TDP. Clutch stage 2 is slightly heavier and grabbier but makes those shifts at high rpm easier.
Regards
gav
#32
9 Second Club
I got a load of freezer type bags and bagged/tagged everything in grouped sections when I took mine apart, so hopefully nothing would get mislaid or missed out etc. As well as lots of photos.