Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

New Twin-Disk and MC Causing Clutch to Drag.

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Old 03-23-2018, 09:34 AM
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i can't hear anything (like no sound at all cause of where I am). but, for the momentary delay going into gear -- look into the detent mod. I modded the shift detent on mine after putting in the MGW shifter and it made going through the gears smoother and less effort. Results vary. i can only say it worked for me. I ended up using two copper washers to get the desired results.
Old 03-23-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ******
Sounds like you got the MC bleed

1st & Reverse are the most noticeable in terms of hard getting in gear when the clutch is dragging (not completely disengaging).

Jack the rear and put car in gear with engine running, clutch depressed. If tires are moving the clutch is not completely disengaging.

Turn the MC rod to raise the pedal 1 turn and repeat the above. Repeat in 1 turn increments a few more times if needed.

Your MGW shifter may be "feeling" like it is a little stiff also so it may just be a learning/feel curve to acclimate to

EDIT:

Just saw your video below. Looks like it goes into gear and sounds fine.
Good to hear! Still going to do some investigating to see if its dragging slightly. Right now the pedal is flush with the brake pedal. Tick told me there's little concern in over adjusting the master in terms of damaging the master itself. Steve on the other had said that the tick master can move enough fluid to damage the pressure plate on the Monster clutch, so I'll be cautious in my adjustments.
Old 03-23-2018, 10:47 AM
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When I adjusted mine, I like to have the rear jacked up and adjust it enough so it stops creeping the tires and lock it down. Done this on several real fast manual trans cars.
Old 03-31-2018, 04:37 PM
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Just finished putting the same clutch in mine. Took it for the first drive yesterday and it drove well. I did jack up the rear and noticed that when it is put in gear the tires will "jump" slightly. Sometimes it also did this when put right back into neutral and let the clutch out. Here is the video, any concerns with this?
Old 04-01-2018, 02:38 PM
  #25  
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I don't see any issue
Old 04-02-2018, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Zmg00camaross
When I adjusted mine, I like to have the rear jacked up and adjust it enough so it stops creeping the tires and lock it down. Done this on several real fast manual trans cars.
Interesting development with my heap tonight....

Jacked it up and out it on stands. Wheels do not move, jump, ANYTHING when clutch is pressed in and you put it into gear. (Good sign)

Wheels do not move with the clutch pressed in and shifter in neutral position. (Good sign)

Wheels DO move with the clutch released and the transmission in neutral, but can easily be stopped with the emergency brake and no resistance on the engine (Da fuq?).

Any ideas fellers?



EDIT Quick search on the google machine says it's normal and is likely due to cold transmission fluid and other friction surfaces in the transmission when there's nothing to keep the rear tires from spinning.

It seems, for now, that I have this thing sorted out! 500 stop and go miles is going to take a painfully long time as often as I'm able to drive the car. At least I'll be rowing gears!

Last edited by mattl31; 04-03-2018 at 08:29 AM.
Old 04-05-2018, 08:23 PM
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I can tell you now, with the car in neutral, engine running and driveshaft removed the output shaft spins when cold on the transmission. And that is with a bellhousing aligned .0005 parallel and runout of .0025 . Now, I do want to note, I measured for a shim and did end up using one. I have a Hinson shifter and LT1-S, when the car is running the shifter easily goes into any gear. No high RPM shifting issues either.




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