Scott99Z

Scott99Z

Let me add a little more to my rambling last night......I was really happy that the countershaft measured "stock" shim with what seemed like 0.000" so I happily went 0.002" thicker as that was the closest shim I had and everything i've read says target 0.002"-0.003" preload for that. On the mainshaft it's just difficult to get a really good reading as it you move anything other than perfectly straight up and down the numbers move a little bit. I "should" be shimmed for 0.000" to 0.001" endplay per my measurement BUT it just feels like there is more side to side play than seems like there should be if shimmed at or near zero. I did read where people say with new bearings to shim them tight as things will open up a bit. I'm just wondering if I should go to the stock shim size which would give me 0.002" or so preload (big assumption my measurement is good) and then likely take the side to side play out? Also, yes i'm an engineer and could likely be overthinking this, it seems like the function of shimming is to work out any tolerances in machine of parts and bearings. I'd have to believe the bearings are VERY tight tolerance and since its the same mainshaft and the same case that it would only be the bearings themselves that I would be reshimming for and I just have a hard time believing bearings like that would be very different. I did also read a few places where people note that they do set them to slight preload on the mainshaft especially with new bearings? What to do, what to do? (and please someone don't bother posting or reading the Tremec manual to me, I have that and know what it says).

Thanks

jmd

iTrader: (4)

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

Mathew is right, side to side input shaft play is not a good indicator of shimming. The input shaft gets held in the pilot bearing when installed , so it will not use that play you see.

Scott99Z

That's funny STFU about the side play. I agree but also completely disagree. I used the side to side play only as an indicator that something was looser than I thought it should be and that is 100% valid. At any rate I ended up remeasuring and got a closer number to what I "wanted to see" and convinced myself I did a better job measuring to get that and wound up going to the stock shim and theoretically should be right around 0.000". Guess what? The side to side play seems much more reasonable now. Transmission is together and going in tomorrow. Then the wait on cylinder heads. From a vendor here only about 5 weeks late now.......

My final thoughts on rebuilding my T56. Likely not a job for the novice with a 154 piece "do it all" tool set. Changing the bearings SUCKS SUCKS SUCKS. Most of them are simple press on, press off which only takes some time fiddling around but there are 2 races that were flat out not pleasant. The race on the end of the input shaft and the race on the output shaft. No way to get to either. I've seen where people used a 3 jaw puller to get that one out of the input shaft but maybe there is tolerance on the ID there and their's was looser because nothing would catch on mine. I tried and tried and ground and "improved" a small puller every which way to sunday and could not get it to stay on. I would up searching the interwebs after countless hours trying and found someone that said they had the same problem and a tranny shop removed it in 10 minutes by welding around the race and getting it to "shrink" enough it came right out. That didn't exactly work with my little Lincoln 140 wire feed but it was fully capable of putting enough of a tack that I then had something the puller could easily grab a hold of. Basically the same thing on the other end where I welded to give something I could then hammer at. If not changing the bearings then it's really not that big of a deal.