Dropping Tranny, doing research, could use addt'l thoughts
09-30-2018, 10:04 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Dropping Tranny, doing research, could use addt'l thoughts Hey Everybody,
My slave cylinder is out and while I have the tranny dropped (friend of a friend is helping) I'm told it's a good time to swap the clutch (car is at $85k with the stock clutch).
I know in my previous research that a lot of posters here have spoken highly of Tick Performance's master cylinders and the speed bleeder that they have. I have that on my short list along with the 3-pack of slave shims that they have. However, I need a slave cylinder too and I don't see one on Tick's site - curious if anyone has a suggestion for a brand?
Also, I've been looking at the FAQs in the Manual Transmission thread to get an idea of what clutch I should buy and what I found were recommendations for three brands:
- McLeod
- Spec
- Textralia
I've also heard of Monster and Tick too, but I noticed Tick doesn't sell just the clutch - they only have rebuilds starting at like $1,700, which is out of my price range and the scope of what I'd like to accomplish right now.
In the FAQs it mentions that what brand you buy is contingent on what you want to do with the car and that of the three brands mentioned above it will vary based on this. My car is currently stock + catback. I'll put headers and long tubes on it at some point, a new intake, and a tune at some point, but I don't plan on getting the car past 400 or 450hp, and I mainly just drive it for fun while taking it to a strip or a track a couple times a year.
Given that, do you guys have any suggestions for the type of clutch / clutch kit I should get?
Lastly, I'm open to additional suggestions if anyone has them. I'm gathering parts and info to be as prepared as I can for when we pop that sucker open.
Any thoughts or direction on those would be much appreciated!
My slave cylinder is out and while I have the tranny dropped (friend of a friend is helping) I'm told it's a good time to swap the clutch (car is at $85k with the stock clutch).
I know in my previous research that a lot of posters here have spoken highly of Tick Performance's master cylinders and the speed bleeder that they have. I have that on my short list along with the 3-pack of slave shims that they have. However, I need a slave cylinder too and I don't see one on Tick's site - curious if anyone has a suggestion for a brand?
Also, I've been looking at the FAQs in the Manual Transmission thread to get an idea of what clutch I should buy and what I found were recommendations for three brands:
- McLeod
- Spec
- Textralia
I've also heard of Monster and Tick too, but I noticed Tick doesn't sell just the clutch - they only have rebuilds starting at like $1,700, which is out of my price range and the scope of what I'd like to accomplish right now.
In the FAQs it mentions that what brand you buy is contingent on what you want to do with the car and that of the three brands mentioned above it will vary based on this. My car is currently stock + catback. I'll put headers and long tubes on it at some point, a new intake, and a tune at some point, but I don't plan on getting the car past 400 or 450hp, and I mainly just drive it for fun while taking it to a strip or a track a couple times a year.
Given that, do you guys have any suggestions for the type of clutch / clutch kit I should get?
Lastly, I'm open to additional suggestions if anyone has them. I'm gathering parts and info to be as prepared as I can for when we pop that sucker open.
Any thoughts or direction on those would be much appreciated!
10-01-2018, 08:33 AM
#2
I would do a Monster Level 2 for your setup, that will easily hold what you make and give you room to grow - all while keeping drivability stock and longevity in mind.
They can be purchased here - http://monsterclutches.com/1998-2002...12-inch-clutch
They can be purchased here - http://monsterclutches.com/1998-2002...12-inch-clutch
10-01-2018, 08:53 AM
#3
I would do a Monster Level 2 for your setup, that will easily hold what you make and give you room to grow - all while keeping drivability stock and longevity in mind.
They can be purchased here - http://monsterclutches.com/1998-2002...12-inch-clutch
They can be purchased here - http://monsterclutches.com/1998-2002...12-inch-clutch
10-02-2018, 10:57 AM
#7
For a slave, you'll want a stock GM one which Tick has on their site. Their speedbleeder is a life saver, great investment. I have their master as well. It sucked *** on an aftermarket cerametallic clutch that I had, made the engagement of the clutch very much on/off and the pedal overly stiff. I hated driving the car, stock master was much better with that clutch. On the flip side, I now have that same Tick master on a organic clutch and it is frigin great, has made the engagement more predictable (which is needed) and added some firmness to the otherwise overly soft pedal throw (again what it needed). The appropriateness of the Tick master in my experience is dependent upon the type of clutch material used. Just some food for thought.
As for clutches, my only advice is to research the hell out of clutch materials before deciding on a specific clutch. Choose the wrong material and you may hate it. I learned the hard way.
As for clutches, my only advice is to research the hell out of clutch materials before deciding on a specific clutch. Choose the wrong material and you may hate it. I learned the hard way.
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10-02-2018, 06:34 PM
#9
TECH Apprentice
Monster 2 is what I have in my stock GTO and I am happy with it. Street manners are fine and it does great at the drag strip. It grips hard but you can still slip it if needed.
The Monster LT series wasn't out yet when I bought it or I would've gone with one of those. If you read up you'll see a lot of LS7 clutches at the lower end of the price range.
The Monster LT series wasn't out yet when I bought it or I would've gone with one of those. If you read up you'll see a lot of LS7 clutches at the lower end of the price range.
10-02-2018, 08:32 PM
#10
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
For a slave, you'll want a stock GM one which Tick has on their site. Their speedbleeder is a life saver, great investment. I have their master as well. It sucked *** on an aftermarket cerametallic clutch that I had, made the engagement of the clutch very much on/off and the pedal overly stiff. I hated driving the car, stock master was much better with that clutch. On the flip side, I now have that same Tick master on a organic clutch and it is frigin great, has made the engagement more predictable (which is needed) and added some firmness to the otherwise overly soft pedal throw (again what it needed). The appropriateness of the Tick master in my experience is dependent upon the type of clutch material used. Just some food for thought.
As for clutches, my only advice is to research the hell out of clutch materials before deciding on a specific clutch. Choose the wrong material and you may hate it. I learned the hard way.
As for clutches, my only advice is to research the hell out of clutch materials before deciding on a specific clutch. Choose the wrong material and you may hate it. I learned the hard way.
I'm also not sure what you mean by organic. Is that a reference to the type of material the clutch is made of?
10-03-2018, 08:58 AM
#12
The clutch that didn't work well with the Tick master was a Mantic and the clutch that works well with it is my current stock LS7 clutch. If you want something that has stock manners, doesn't make any noises, does not chatter/shudder upon take off, and doesn't break the bank the LS7 is a viable option. I have a Ram aluminum flywheel with mine and I absolutely love it, my car makes 436rwhp. I use to be a LS7 hater just based upon what people say on the forums but it's better than the aftermarket clutches I've experienced for a run of the mill street car. I'm not saying it's the best thing since sliced bread or anything because it's not, it just works for me very well and is better than anything else I've experienced. Some people can tolerate chatter/shudder upon take off and **** like that but I can't so I'm more into the conservative options. LS7 clutches and many organic options aren't the best for drag racing so if you plan to drag the car a lot you may want to consider a more aggressive compound. Just realize that there may/will be some drawbacks to that. It's all personal preference so there is no such thing are right or wrong and everyone will have their own opinions and preferences. Just gotta determine what's most important to you.
From an aftermarket standpoint, I've read too many negative things about Spec clutches so I'd personally shy away. Steve at Monster is a good dude and they make some nice stuff so if I were to go aftermarket they'd be my first choice.
10-05-2018, 01:47 PM
#13
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Yup, I was referencing the material that the clutch disk is made of.
The clutch that didn't work well with the Tick master was a Mantic and the clutch that works well with it is my current stock LS7 clutch. If you want something that has stock manners, doesn't make any noises, does not chatter/shudder upon take off, and doesn't break the bank the LS7 is a viable option. I have a Ram aluminum flywheel with mine and I absolutely love it, my car makes 436rwhp. I use to be a LS7 hater just based upon what people say on the forums but it's better than the aftermarket clutches I've experienced for a run of the mill street car. I'm not saying it's the best thing since sliced bread or anything because it's not, it just works for me very well and is better than anything else I've experienced. Some people can tolerate chatter/shudder upon take off and **** like that but I can't so I'm more into the conservative options. LS7 clutches and many organic options aren't the best for drag racing so if you plan to drag the car a lot you may want to consider a more aggressive compound. Just realize that there may/will be some drawbacks to that. It's all personal preference so there is no such thing are right or wrong and everyone will have their own opinions and preferences. Just gotta determine what's most important to you.
From an aftermarket standpoint, I've read too many negative things about Spec clutches so I'd personally shy away. Steve at Monster is a good dude and they make some nice stuff so if I were to go aftermarket they'd be my first choice.
The clutch that didn't work well with the Tick master was a Mantic and the clutch that works well with it is my current stock LS7 clutch. If you want something that has stock manners, doesn't make any noises, does not chatter/shudder upon take off, and doesn't break the bank the LS7 is a viable option. I have a Ram aluminum flywheel with mine and I absolutely love it, my car makes 436rwhp. I use to be a LS7 hater just based upon what people say on the forums but it's better than the aftermarket clutches I've experienced for a run of the mill street car. I'm not saying it's the best thing since sliced bread or anything because it's not, it just works for me very well and is better than anything else I've experienced. Some people can tolerate chatter/shudder upon take off and **** like that but I can't so I'm more into the conservative options. LS7 clutches and many organic options aren't the best for drag racing so if you plan to drag the car a lot you may want to consider a more aggressive compound. Just realize that there may/will be some drawbacks to that. It's all personal preference so there is no such thing are right or wrong and everyone will have their own opinions and preferences. Just gotta determine what's most important to you.
From an aftermarket standpoint, I've read too many negative things about Spec clutches so I'd personally shy away. Steve at Monster is a good dude and they make some nice stuff so if I were to go aftermarket they'd be my first choice.
For the master and slave it sounds like the Tick Master cylinder ($325) with the speed bleeder ($99) is the crowd favorite and a stock Slave from GM.
I got a quote for $214 from GM for the slave cylinder. Do people buy stock parts from other outlets too? I'll be looking around but I'm curious if theres somewhere specific gearheads go.
And will I need to buy slave shims?
10-05-2018, 03:06 PM
#14
OP
A larger than stock bore MC will add a little more effort to the clutch pedal....maybe 10%. It moves a higher volume of fluid per stroke than a stock size bore so the pedal travel to disengage the clutch will also be slightly less. This may only be a issue with more aggressive discs (ceramic puc type) as mentioned in this thread but no real issue with a organic full face disc since the engagement window is now slightly tighter with a larger bore MC
IDK if Tick makes stock size bore MC using the Tilton MC. McLeod does. They use the Wilwood MC, very nice unit.
I have a larger MC for my LT1 car with a McLeod MC (Wilwood) as the twin disc clutch needs it vs the single dsc.
Monster doesn't make any clutches for the Gen 2 LT1 but they get great reviews for LS cars on this forum. I have been very happy with my McLeod
A larger than stock bore MC will add a little more effort to the clutch pedal....maybe 10%. It moves a higher volume of fluid per stroke than a stock size bore so the pedal travel to disengage the clutch will also be slightly less. This may only be a issue with more aggressive discs (ceramic puc type) as mentioned in this thread but no real issue with a organic full face disc since the engagement window is now slightly tighter with a larger bore MC
IDK if Tick makes stock size bore MC using the Tilton MC. McLeod does. They use the Wilwood MC, very nice unit.
I have a larger MC for my LT1 car with a McLeod MC (Wilwood) as the twin disc clutch needs it vs the single dsc.
Monster doesn't make any clutches for the Gen 2 LT1 but they get great reviews for LS cars on this forum. I have been very happy with my McLeod
10-06-2018, 06:51 AM
#15
Thanks. I looked around and it looks like you're not the only one who is happy with an LS7 kit. I'm going to look seriously at that. The kits I found are around $500-$600 so far.
For the master and slave it sounds like the Tick Master cylinder ($325) with the speed bleeder ($99) is the crowd favorite and a stock Slave from GM.
I got a quote for $214 from GM for the slave cylinder. Do people buy stock parts from other outlets too? I'll be looking around but I'm curious if theres somewhere specific gearheads go.
And will I need to buy slave shims?
For the master and slave it sounds like the Tick Master cylinder ($325) with the speed bleeder ($99) is the crowd favorite and a stock Slave from GM.
I got a quote for $214 from GM for the slave cylinder. Do people buy stock parts from other outlets too? I'll be looking around but I'm curious if theres somewhere specific gearheads go.
And will I need to buy slave shims?
No matter what clutch kit you go with I’d recommend having a local machine shop spin the pressure plate and flywheel assembly on a balancer to check the balance and adjust as needed. For this you boltthe pressure plate to the fly (without the disk). My guy charged me $60 to do so. I’d also recommend a new pilot bearing. A slide hammer will be the way to get the old one out.
10-07-2018, 04:21 PM
#16
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Thanks for all of the input! I ended up buying the package below at $999.99 + Free Shipping from Tick Performance. It had everything discussed here for a competitive rate vs. what I saw on-line.
Tick Performance LS7 Complete Clutch & Hydraulic Upgrade Package for 1998-02 Camaro & Firebird LS1
- GM LS7 Clutch Pressure Plate & Disc with Standard Steel or RAM Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel (your choice)
- Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit for LS1 F-Body
- Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line for LS1 F-Body
- GM Replacement Slave Cylinder (01+ F-Body Type)
- GM Replacement Throwout Bearing
- Tick Performance Slave Cylinder Shim Kit (3-Pack)
- GM Replacement Pilot Bearing
- GM Flywheel & Pressure Plate Bolts
- Clutch Alignment Tool
10-08-2018, 08:59 AM
#17
^Good stuff man.
Which flywheel did you end up selecting, the standard steel one or the RAM lightweight aluminum?
Just an FYI, with the lightweight RAM aluminum flywheel the entire setup weighed in at 47 lbs. when I weighed it, that's about 2-3 lbs. less than the stock clutch kit. With the standard steel flywheel the entire clutch kit will weigh about 7ish lbs. more than what you have now.
If you happened to get the standard steel one I'd suggest calling and changing the order to the RAM that way you don't have a weight penalty.
Which flywheel did you end up selecting, the standard steel one or the RAM lightweight aluminum?
Just an FYI, with the lightweight RAM aluminum flywheel the entire setup weighed in at 47 lbs. when I weighed it, that's about 2-3 lbs. less than the stock clutch kit. With the standard steel flywheel the entire clutch kit will weigh about 7ish lbs. more than what you have now.
If you happened to get the standard steel one I'd suggest calling and changing the order to the RAM that way you don't have a weight penalty.
10-20-2018, 05:29 PM
#18
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
^Good stuff man.
Which flywheel did you end up selecting, the standard steel one or the RAM lightweight aluminum?
Just an FYI, with the lightweight RAM aluminum flywheel the entire setup weighed in at 47 lbs. when I weighed it, that's about 2-3 lbs. less than the stock clutch kit. With the standard steel flywheel the entire clutch kit will weigh about 7ish lbs. more than what you have now.
If you happened to get the standard steel one I'd suggest calling and changing the order to the RAM that way you don't have a weight penalty.
Which flywheel did you end up selecting, the standard steel one or the RAM lightweight aluminum?
Just an FYI, with the lightweight RAM aluminum flywheel the entire setup weighed in at 47 lbs. when I weighed it, that's about 2-3 lbs. less than the stock clutch kit. With the standard steel flywheel the entire clutch kit will weigh about 7ish lbs. more than what you have now.
If you happened to get the standard steel one I'd suggest calling and changing the order to the RAM that way you don't have a weight penalty.
OPTION GUIDE: Which Flywheel should I choose?
We generally suggest sticking with the Standard Steel Flywheel unless you're autocrossing or road racing and looking for quicker RPM pickup off the corners. The RAM 19.5LB Aluminum Flywheel upgrade will make the car feel a bit more zippy, but may require some getting used to in a street or drag race application. The RAM Flywheel is SFI Certified.