New clutch, smells, high grab point
08-11-2019, 10:07 AM
#1
New clutch, smells, high grab point Ok so... about 4 months ago I had a monster stage 3 put in my car. New throw out,slave, fly wheel. My car also has a tick master cylinder. Drove alright after it was done had a slight clutch smell for the first 50~ miles of normal driving and went away. Grab point was a little high for a new clutch but I didn't think anything of it. About 300 miles later which would be yesterday. I took the car out of my garage after letting it sit for 2 months. Clutch grab point is at the tip top of the peddle. Almost completely releasing the peddle before it starts to engage and feels very sloppy. I still had to drive it home from my other garage so about 20~ miles to get home. On the highway I gave it some throttle and once it got passed 3500 - 4k rpm I smelled clutch immediately. Didn't feel like its slipping at all but smelt like it for sure. T tops off / windows open.
So my question is. Do you guys think this is a install error? Is this something even fixable without pulling the trans back? Or did I just get unlucky with some bad parts? Also would this have anything to do with the adjustable peddle from the master cylinder? Im not much of a trans guy especially a manual trans so Im just looking for the right direction to start in.
So my question is. Do you guys think this is a install error? Is this something even fixable without pulling the trans back? Or did I just get unlucky with some bad parts? Also would this have anything to do with the adjustable peddle from the master cylinder? Im not much of a trans guy especially a manual trans so Im just looking for the right direction to start in.
08-11-2019, 11:47 AM
#2
The way you describe the pedal "at the top" sounds like it is NOT adjusted properly.
Hopefully no perm damage is done. If you are lucky it hasn't glazed. I am not familiar with that clutch.
There is usually a requirement that there be some free play at the top of a clutch pedal.
This is to keep the throwout bearing from riding the pressure plate, which it sounds like yours might be doing.
I've never setup a clutch in your kind of car but I see nobody has responded yet so I am trying to give some of what I can,
Anyways. historically, there are a couple ways to ruin a clutch, one is resting your foot on the clutch pedal while you drive, that causes the TOB to ride the clutch (as above). If the pedal adjustment is wrong, its basically doing the same thing. When the TOB rides the PP it can cause the clutch to be always disengaged slightly,
which it sounds like yours is doing.
Otherwise a major mechanical malfunction is occurring due to error somewhere. IMO
hopefully a more direct answer is coming soon but for now I would try adjusting the pedal (clutch master) to give about 1/4" minimum of free play at the top of the travel,
and bleed the system properly,
And check the service manual in regards to the slave behavior. some slaves have specific adjustment points where the fluid cannot return to the master if it gets past a certain travel area. So there should be some info in the service manual about that maybe.
Hopefully no perm damage is done. If you are lucky it hasn't glazed. I am not familiar with that clutch.
There is usually a requirement that there be some free play at the top of a clutch pedal.
This is to keep the throwout bearing from riding the pressure plate, which it sounds like yours might be doing.
I've never setup a clutch in your kind of car but I see nobody has responded yet so I am trying to give some of what I can,
Anyways. historically, there are a couple ways to ruin a clutch, one is resting your foot on the clutch pedal while you drive, that causes the TOB to ride the clutch (as above). If the pedal adjustment is wrong, its basically doing the same thing. When the TOB rides the PP it can cause the clutch to be always disengaged slightly,
which it sounds like yours is doing.
Otherwise a major mechanical malfunction is occurring due to error somewhere. IMO
hopefully a more direct answer is coming soon but for now I would try adjusting the pedal (clutch master) to give about 1/4" minimum of free play at the top of the travel,
and bleed the system properly,
And check the service manual in regards to the slave behavior. some slaves have specific adjustment points where the fluid cannot return to the master if it gets past a certain travel area. So there should be some info in the service manual about that maybe.
08-11-2019, 12:28 PM
#3
The way you describe the pedal "at the top" sounds like it is NOT adjusted properly.
Hopefully no perm damage is done. If you are lucky it hasn't glazed. I am not familiar with that clutch.
There is usually a requirement that there be some free play at the top of a clutch pedal.
This is to keep the throwout bearing from riding the pressure plate, which it sounds like yours might be doing.
I've never setup a clutch in your kind of car but I see nobody has responded yet so I am trying to give some of what I can,
Anyways. historically, there are a couple ways to ruin a clutch, one is resting your foot on the clutch pedal while you drive, that causes the TOB to ride the clutch (as above). If the pedal adjustment is wrong, its basically doing the same thing. When the TOB rides the PP it can cause the clutch to be always disengaged slightly,
which it sounds like yours is doing.
Otherwise a major mechanical malfunction is occurring due to error somewhere. IMO
hopefully a more direct answer is coming soon but for now I would try adjusting the pedal (clutch master) to give about 1/4" minimum of free play at the top of the travel,
and bleed the system properly,
And check the service manual in regards to the slave behavior. some slaves have specific adjustment points where the fluid cannot return to the master if it gets past a certain travel area. So there should be some info in the service manual about that maybe.
Hopefully no perm damage is done. If you are lucky it hasn't glazed. I am not familiar with that clutch.
There is usually a requirement that there be some free play at the top of a clutch pedal.
This is to keep the throwout bearing from riding the pressure plate, which it sounds like yours might be doing.
I've never setup a clutch in your kind of car but I see nobody has responded yet so I am trying to give some of what I can,
Anyways. historically, there are a couple ways to ruin a clutch, one is resting your foot on the clutch pedal while you drive, that causes the TOB to ride the clutch (as above). If the pedal adjustment is wrong, its basically doing the same thing. When the TOB rides the PP it can cause the clutch to be always disengaged slightly,
which it sounds like yours is doing.
Otherwise a major mechanical malfunction is occurring due to error somewhere. IMO
hopefully a more direct answer is coming soon but for now I would try adjusting the pedal (clutch master) to give about 1/4" minimum of free play at the top of the travel,
and bleed the system properly,
And check the service manual in regards to the slave behavior. some slaves have specific adjustment points where the fluid cannot return to the master if it gets past a certain travel area. So there should be some info in the service manual about that maybe.
08-17-2019, 01:23 PM
#4
I had Tick Performance install my Monster Stage 2 clutch along with their adjustable master cylinder and remote bleeder. When I picked it up, I was shocked at how high the engagement point of the clutch was. I even took it back to them and they assured me it was normal with their master cylinder. It just takes getting use to. Some of the complaints on here are that they now feel like the clutch is an "on-off" switch with the Tick master...I concur with that assessment as well...
As for whether or not you have a problem, I can't really say, but I did want to point out that some of what you're feeling is normal...
As for whether or not you have a problem, I can't really say, but I did want to point out that some of what you're feeling is normal...