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So does the adapter stay on the trans, or stay on the engine for install ? Which seems easiest ?
If you don't do the grinds, then you must first put your flexplate in and attach the adapter to the engine. The flexplate will then be captive. Then you can attach the trans to the adapter and engine. But if you need to get to the engine or flexplate, you need to remove both sets of bolts.
If you do the minimal grinds, I believe you can disassemble/assemble either side without affecting the other in any order.
I think I'm going to prefer connecting to the engine last (grinds required). There are locating pins for alignment and fewer bolts and since I'm screwing into threaded steel holes, less change of buggering up the threads.
There was an interference issue with two of the four (top) rear oil seal cover screws. I shaved my screws down a bit to work through this issue. I talked to domiworks and they are making an update to their design. I'm trying to locate a spare starter to make sure there are no issues there.
That must be a V8 DCT you have ? The bellhousing on it is supposed to be larger than the 6cyl versions. And from other pictures I've seen, yours definitely looks larger at the top where the V8 starter would have been on the BMW.
If they’re as encrypted and locked down as it sounds, they seem kind of pricey on eBay. I’m in the market for an interesting transmission and am trying to decide between this path and a zf 8hp. I’ve always wanted to try to make my own transmission controller.
If they’re as encrypted and locked down as it sounds, they seem kind of pricey on eBay. I’m in the market for an interesting transmission and am trying to decide between this path and a zf 8hp. I’ve always wanted to try to make my own transmission controller.
The HTG GCU can run the DCT or the ZF8HP
The electronics side of things would be simple enough, it'd be the software programming to make it all work well, and safely that would be harder. However is software is your thing, then it may be easy.
But the DCT transmissions seem extremely cheap over here, usually around £1k. Which really is a bargain for what they are.
Of course, it'll cost another £2-3k by the time it is in a vehicle and running.
Overall, that's still cheaper than a Magnum in the UK, although I doubt they will be as strong. And with a clutch that some claim can handle 7-800hp standard....still very cheap.
However the next stage of clutches do add quite substantially to any costs.
If they’re as encrypted and locked down as it sounds, they seem kind of pricey on eBay. I’m in the market for an interesting transmission and am trying to decide between this path and a zf 8hp. I’ve always wanted to try to make my own transmission controller.
I've made my own controller for the 4l80e.
I'd love to make one for the DCT, but there was information available for the 4L80e and I haven't found any for the DCT. The hardware and software is not a problem for me once I know what each solenoid does and some other parameters. If anyone has detail info on the DCT, please let me know.
I'd love to make one for the DCT, but there was information available for the 4L80e and I haven't found any for the DCT. The hardware and software is not a problem for me once I know what each solenoid does and some other parameters. If anyone has detail info on the DCT, please let me know.
Presumably the wiring instructions of the conversions would tell you what you need to know ?
Many aspects will be "simple", as you can physically see what each solenoid is doing
Domiworks also made this PCB for inside the box to make that wiring process easier.
I'd love to make one for the DCT, but there was information available for the 4L80e and I haven't found any for the DCT. The hardware and software is not a problem for me once I know what each solenoid does and some other parameters. If anyone has detail info on the DCT, please let me know.
ive seen your controller, it sounds like a really fun project. Thats similar to what i want to do. compared to a traditional automatic the dct may be quite a bit more complicated. I have not found any good information on how it works inside, but it sounds like you have to control which clutch is engaged and asynchronously move the gears around. plus you need to handle coming to a stop and beginning motion/launching. Would be a heck of a project.
Id like to get one and help out, but im thinking i may go 8hp instead, ive been reading that they are on par performance wise with a dct.
Presumably the wiring instructions of the conversions would tell you what you need to know ?
Many aspects will be "simple", as you can physically see what each solenoid is doing
Domiworks also made this PCB for inside the box to make that wiring process easier.
Sure that will help. But I can think of at least 3 solenoids that must be PWMd. Line Pressure, and the both clutches. Maybe more. What frequency? What is the range of duty cycles? What are the sensors and what range outputs?
ive seen your controller, it sounds like a really fun project. Thats similar to what i want to do. compared to a traditional automatic the dct may be quite a bit more complicated. I have not found any good information on how it works inside, but it sounds like you have to control which clutch is engaged and asynchronously move the gears around. plus you need to handle coming to a stop and beginning motion/launching. Would be a heck of a project.
Id like to get one and help out, but im thinking i may go 8hp instead, ive been reading that they are on par performance wise with a dct.
they're pretty simple really, as in effect they're sort of just an automated manual.
One clutch engages odd gears, the other even gears.
Most important things are never allow both clutches engaged at the same time lol....although there may be mechanical limitations to prevent that
No doubt to some degree most signals would or could be PWM'd to reduce the violence of any solenoid or controlling actions. But without reverse engineering as I guess the others have done, or some guesswork....I doubt those who have done that work will give it out for free.
That said, there's a good chance a lot of info could well be in BMW repair manuals
what i was thinking was the logic/control of gear selection. you would need to move from 1st to 3rd or 3rd to 5th while the even clutch is applied and vice versa, and i assume it needs to be fully engaged before applying that clutch? maybe im over thinking it.
also what they talked about at the end of the first video was a good point about needing to write in some prediction capability in the control software.
what i was thinking was the logic/control of gear selection. you would need to move from 1st to 3rd or 3rd to 5th while the even clutch is applied and vice versa, and i assume it needs to be fully engaged before applying that clutch? maybe im over thinking it.
also what they talked about at the end of the first video was a good point about needing to write in some prediction capability in the control software.
In very simplistic terms...say throttle is over 25%....next higher gear is engaged and ready. Say below this or when brakes are applied, next lower gear is engaged and ready.
So you could be driving along in say 3rd gear, and depending on mode of driving, 2nd and 4th could be selected multiple times, but the clutch never actually engaged.
Obviously the OEM version will be very very well sequenced and planned, clutches smoothly engaged etc etc and lots of safeties.
Aftermarket, well as said, the software side of things will be the difficult part to ensure operation is all good. And it would probably take a very long time to get it as good, or anywhere near that of the OEM setup.
With an auto like the ZF8HP, it is probably a lot easier ?
With an auto like the ZF8HP, it is probably a lot easier ?
the 8hp has a bit more useful info online. it shifts almost as fast or on par with a dct, oems say 200ms but ive seen people claim 150ms. its 5 solenoids and you engage 3 of them for each gear. each change between gear is only a single solenoid change, so one turns off and one turns on. it can also go neutral any time like a dct, can change to any gear at any time and bmw has a race car version that doesnt use a converter, and i dont think its a major internal change, the clutch pack used to start from stopped is similar/same.
im leaning toward the 8hp because i think it will be a little easier to make my own controller since it has a tq converter so hopefully more forgiving. but i feel like every time i read more of this thread i want to grab a bmw dct instead.
So I pulled the starter out of the Vette to do a test fit in the DCT. It doesn't fit. Needs some metal removal from the transmission. The adapter ring is ok. The starter needs about 11-12mm clearance.
Got the marker out again.
Used a cutoff wheel to make the clearance.
Now the starter fits fine.
I took about 13-14 mm out, could probably get by with 11-12. I don't think the coutout will have any issues with case strength.
Keep in mind this is the V8 DCT. Don't know how the inline 6 version will fit. Also don't know how the inline 6 will do for oiling. The inline 6 engine is installed at quite an angle.
Gotta say, getting the GM starer in and out is a piece of cake. Especially since I have a battery cutout switch.
And you had a nice carbide burr sitting there to use !! lol
I'd guess both versions will foul, not a lot can be done about other than make clearance. The transmissions would be installed upright regardless though ?
The adapter you have does both transmissions though ?
And you had a nice carbide burr sitting there to use !! lol
LOL, started with the carbide burr, but lost patience. Could have done a much nicer job.
Originally Posted by stevieturbo
I'd guess both versions will foul, not a lot can be done about other than make clearance. The transmissions would be installed upright regardless though ?
The adapter you have does both transmissions though ?
I'm guessing it will foul both. I don't know if my adapter does both. Next time I go to Maximum PSI, I'll bring the adapter and compare it to one of their inline 6 DCTs.
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