having issues with my hurst shifter
having issues with my hurst shifter The car shifts smooth 1-4. On 5 and 6 it constantly grinds. I just bought the car and the previous owner said he replaced some plastic fitting with a brass one but needs some kind of adjusting? The shifter is a Hurst. I can get it into 5th and 6th at idle but under load it won’t go in without grinding. Anybody got an idea? Gonna pull the console and mess with it tomorrow but seeing if anybody has some insight.
Last edited by 1998 t/a; May 1, 2020 at 08:12 PM.
Transmissions grind. Shifters don't. If you had a problem with this type of shifter, it would be related to holding in gear or being able to get into gear.
After the grinding, does the car stay in gear normally? There was an aftermarket Hurst shifter with some adjustment in it, but nothing that would cause an issue in 5 AND 6.
After the grinding, does the car stay in gear normally? There was an aftermarket Hurst shifter with some adjustment in it, but nothing that would cause an issue in 5 AND 6.
It is an aftermarket shifter. If I get it into 5th or 6th it stays, doesn't pop out but I get buzzed when I try to put it in. If I let the RPM die down to idle it's a little choppy but I get it into 5th. Haven't tried 6th this way. This is a cruise around town type of car for me and something I'm going to build up so 5th and 6th aren't used often but it's still a concern. 1-4 are smooth as butter even under full load.
Does the problem happen if you double clutch?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_clutch_(technique)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_clutch_(technique)
yes it persists if I double clutch. I just called a transmission guy locally he said it is def beyond just the shifter. could be syncro related because 5th and 6th are not engaging.
Just drove it to ACE hardware and 1-4 smooth as hell. If I let the car drop to idle I can slip it into 5th with no grinding but 6th is a no go. Kinda pissed since I just bought the car.
I agree that it probably is more than the shifter, but I did have an issue with my SLP Hurst shifter less than a year ago, so these thing aren't bullet proof either...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...nternally.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...nternally.html
Trending Topics
Did you let out the clutch when you did that for 6? You need the clutch to engage in neutral to slow down the transmission internals before you do the final clutch press and shift into gear.
^ This test will prove if they sold you a car with bad transmission syncros.
^ This test will prove if they sold you a car with bad transmission syncros.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo Yes. When I was cruising down the road I pulled it out of third, released clutch and was in neutral then attempted to put into 5 (obviously depressing the clutch) only to be met with a grind. 5 isn’t terrible I can sometimes slip it in uninterrupted but 6th is a no go all the time.
The syncros are known for going bad on this transmission, which your experience with 5 seems to indicate. 5 and 6 sit on the same rail in the transmission. I haven't played around with my internals that much, but expect that may be why you are having a different experience double clutching with 5 and 6.
You may try blipping the RPM's just a small tad before trying 6 and see if you can get one without a grind. That would highlight the syncros again, but it's probably a bad syncro or gear. Either way, the fixes would entail a tear-down.
You may try blipping the RPM's just a small tad before trying 6 and see if you can get one without a grind. That would highlight the syncros again, but it's probably a bad syncro or gear. Either way, the fixes would entail a tear-down.
Yeah that’s ultimately what I’m expecting to do on this. I wanted to get the car to a decent 500 horsepower this winter and rebuild transmission along with it while it is in storage. I guess this just speeds up the timeline. If I ship the trans off I’m sure I would need to specify that I want 5th and 6th synchros replaced right? I feel like any decent transmission place can get me back up and running while also building the trans to handle 500 hp
I got a quote this morning and assuming nothing else is fucked up, gears etc... I would be in it for $2200 MAX and this includes taking the transmission out, full tear down, built to handle 600hp. I didn't get an exact list of items he will be putting in it bc I called and just asked for a ballpark number. I think this is fair, anybody have an opinion?
The guy I called to rebuild the parts that need it and make it capable of handling more horsepower will not use a kit put together by someone else mainly because he won't honor the work and he just doesn't do business that way. I talked to him for a good while he has A+ reviews I trust him and the work will come with a warranty, I just do not have the time to pull the transmission with every thing else going on its best to just drop it at his shop and let him work.
Yeah, I wasn't talking about getting the parts from Tick and having them installed by your guy, I was referring to their rebuild service where you send them your T56, they rebuild it and send it back and their prices for that. I opted to actually drive my car to Tick (GA - NC drive) and let them have my car to do the rebuild and installation. I opted for the Level II rebuild to hold 600 rwhp too. It seems your guy is in line, if not slightly cheaper than Tick since his price includes removal and installation.
Corvette shifters have adjustments. Only ones I'm aware of on an F body are aftermarket ones with end stops. 5/6 is super easy to get to, yank the tail housing and it's right there under reverse.