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I road race my 93 Camaro wheel to wheel. Ever since last June, I keep missing 3rd gear. Happens at least once a session, and always in the 2nd half of that session, so I'm guessing heat is a factor here. The syncros are fine. They were worn a little last season, but it was never a syncro issue and definitely isn't now that I rebuilt it over the winter and gave it billet keys, bronze fork pads, steel 3-4 fork, etc. The problem is I'm crashing between 1-3 and/or 3-5 and just hitting a wall. I replaced the plate and the piece that rides in it, there was evidence of what I describe written all over them.
At this point, the only logical thing would be to replace my shifter I think. It's a B&M with a tall Blainefab delrin shift ****.
I've liked it better than the wallered out chopped stocker that the car came with. It's easier to reach for my constant up and downshifts. I know if I don't have my elbow out I'll miss gears, I'm not sure if I've developed a bad habit there or not. I will say there is a certain vagueness as it's going from 2-3, I've suspected a stronger centering spring could help me out here and that's something the MGW seems proud of. I've read pretty much all positive about the MGW but want to make sure I'm not overlooking a better shifter or something else. What are your experiences?
I had a hurst billet, and it wasnt a bad shifter but at the track I would occasionally miss 3rd. Since I got an mgw I have never missed third. There is a reason that shifter has such a following, its just good.
If it works fine the 1st half of a session how is it the shifters fault? When you rebuilt it did you replace the 3/4 shift fork that is weak? Did you measure for a shim and ensure no air in the system?
I have an MGW and it does really well with sequential shifting. Handle is too short and effort is high. Shift pattern is really tight and can sometimes mess with your head. You just have to go on autopilot and not think about it or sometimes you lose confidence and hesitate. Would benefit greatly with a longer handle.
If it works fine the 1st half of a session how is it the shifters fault? When you rebuilt it did you replace the 3/4 shift fork that is weak? Did you measure for a shim and ensure no air in the system?
The shifter is the only thing left to blame. I explained why I think it's the shifter in my original post. I replaced the fork as mentioned above and yes I measured for shims. It had previously been upgraded to carbon syncros. What system could have air in it?
I have an MGW and it does really well with sequential shifting. Handle is too short and effort is high. Shift pattern is really tight and can sometimes mess with your head. You just have to go on autopilot and not think about it or sometimes you lose confidence and hesitate. Would benefit greatly with a longer handle.
I'm definitely not on autopilot with this thing. I used to be and it was great. Then all of a sudden after doing this since 2013 I stopped being able to do it.
I've never missed a gate with the MGW. Sometimes do question if I hit the right gear and it makes me pause and think. I have accidentally slipped into 5th instead of 3rd. Never accidentally downshifted too far though. It does have the STRONG on center feel you're looking for.
A shifter is cheap in the grand scheme of things. Maybe just try it? Suggest a longer shift handle with it though. I think it would inspire confidence in finding the right gear and I've been meaning to do that myself too. Very easy to do, it's just a straight rod that is clamped to the shifter.
Trying to give you an honest impression of the MGW, good and bad.
I've never missed a gate with the MGW. Sometimes do question if I hit the right gear and it makes me pause and think. I have accidentally slipped into 5th instead of 3rd. Never accidentally downshifted too far though. It does have the STRONG on center feel you're looking for.
A shifter is cheap in the grand scheme of things. Maybe just try it? Suggest a longer shift handle with it though. I think it would inspire confidence in finding the right gear and I've been meaning to do that myself too. Very easy to do, it's just a straight rod that is clamped to the shifter.
Trying to give you an honest impression of the MGW, good and bad.
Your experience is encouraging. What kind of **** do you have? Did you see mine above?
The shifter is the only thing left to blame. I explained why I think it's the shifter in my original post. I replaced the fork as mentioned above and yes I measured for shims. It had previously been upgraded to carbon syncros. What system could have air in it?
The hydraulic system could have air in it? When was the last time the clutch fluid was changed or bled? As the hydraulic fluid is getting hotter and hotter any air in the system could make the symptoms worse. It just seems very odd it's fine the 1st half of the session.
The hydraulic system could have air in it? When was the last time the clutch fluid was changed or bled? As the hydraulic fluid is getting hotter and hotter any air in the system could make the symptoms worse. It just seems very odd it's fine the 1st half of the session.
Duh. I bled it last year. And by bled I mean suck the reservoir dry, push the clutch slave in, suck out that fluid, refill reservoir. I monkeyed with the pedal too. These systems are weird. But it's not a hydraulic issue here.
I’ve had issues going between 3rd and 5th gear with two different transmissions and two different shifters, it’s a real pain in the ***. With the old hurst shifter I took some 1/4 inch steel plate and cut it to fit the top of the shifter and bolt it in.
The idea was to have the shifter below the handles bolt holes, bump into the plate and only allow me to be able to go as far as 3rd and 4th gear. It worked but I got tired of having to undo the bolts in and out to use reverse.
I have a pro 5.0 shifter now with an add on that has a rod that slides up and down to do the same thing. I kept breaking the shifter handle bolts on that and had to modify it to work like I wanted.
I’ve had issues going between 3rd and 5th gear with two different transmissions and two different shifters, it’s a real pain in the ***. With the old hurst shifter I took some 1/4 inch steel plate and cut it to fit the top of the shifter and bolt it in.
The idea was to have the shifter below the handles bolt holes, bump into the plate and only allow me to be able to go as far as 3rd and 4th gear. It worked but I got tired of having to undo the bolts in and out to use reverse.
I have a pro 5.0 shifter now with an add on that has a rod that slides up and down to do the same thing. I kept breaking the shifter handle bolts on that and had to modify it to work like I wanted.
I'm intrigued, but having difficulty envisioning this. Do you have any pics? We're you able to use reverse? Sounds like no. If I were to go to a 3.42 I wouldn't need 5th, but I wrap out 4th so would either bang off the limiter or briefly grab 5th at the big end of a long straight.
The top two are the hurst shifter, once the Plate is bolted on then there is no getting to 5th 6th or reverse. I had to grind the side of the plate several times to get it perfect, if not it would still go between 3rd and 5th
The bottom two photos is the 5-6 skipshift deal. Works the same way but it’s more convenient since the rod can be slid up to give back use of 5th 6th and reverse.
It didn’t work perfectly just bolting it on. I had to make a plate to bolt on to it also. As it came it would still allow it to go between 3rd and 5th. Added the plate and fixed that. If you want to go with a pro 5.0 and the 5-6 skipshift deal let me know, you will have to do some modifications so you won’t break your shifter handle bolts.
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I Keep Missing 3rd, MGW or Something Better 
I bled it last year. And by bled I mean suck the reservoir dry, push the clutch slave in, suck out that fluid, refill reservoir. I monkeyed with the pedal too. These systems are weird. But it's not a hydraulic issue here. 
