Tick master Adjustment / bleed procedure
Tick master Adjustment / bleed procedure Ive had a Adjustable Tick master for a few years now. My monster stage 3 suddenly got cooked only after about 4k miles. Im not blaming anyone just trying to figure out if there is a specific way to adjust the pedal and or bleeding procedure. I have the remote bleeder and works well. I followed the instructions on Ticks website to do the pedal adjustment. Is there something I may have missed? Is there a special way to bleed the system? Im just trying to rule out all possibilities before I install the new clutch.
Clutch is slipping very bad, smoking , whining, weak grab, pedal feels a bit awkward. Ordered a LS7 to replace it.
Clutch is slipping very bad, smoking , whining, weak grab, pedal feels a bit awkward. Ordered a LS7 to replace it.
For bleeding, I like to crack the bleeder and stick it down in the reservoir. Then pump the **** out of the pedal. Then, close the bleeder, and pump a few times, then do a few the old fashioned way - pump, crack, close, release - to verify no air bubbles. never let me down yet
I've had a tick master and monster clutch for years and have never been able to get it adjusted just right. I don't know if it's the master or the clutch, or the combination or me.
I've been a lot happier with the cars I've driven with a Mcloed and a stock master
I've been a lot happier with the cars I've driven with a Mcloed and a stock master
I’m thinking about going back to the stock master honestly. I’m going to try adjustments on the new clutch and see how it feels. My monster clutch never felt right either. And I paid the price for it.
For bleeding, I like to crack the bleeder and stick it down in the reservoir. Then pump the **** out of the pedal. Then, close the bleeder, and pump a few times, then do a few the old fashioned way - pump, crack, close, release - to verify no air bubbles. never let me down yet
I use the tick master cylinder with McClouds RXT twin disk and remote bleeder. Had issues as well with clutch feeling like it was struggling to disengage thought initially master cylinder. We may hav different issues but I found my remote bleeder was almost touching my headers causing the fluid to boil losing my pedal. Got my bored girlfriend to pump pedal several times while I repeatedly cracked bleeder till I got the pedal back. Probably 15-20 times of pumping/ cracking re routed remote and problem fixed
As to your master, I still run the tick master setup, but I went from the 7/8" bore tilton master they originally supplied back down to the .700" bore master, which eliminated some of the light switch feel of the clutch - more pedal travel to move the pressure plate fingers the same distance.so I could feather it better.
My Monster S3 lasted 11k miles with the 7/8 bore tick master, before I put the RPS clutch in it. I pulled the MS3 out mainly due to weight. After putting the rps in, I went to the smaller master. Actually, that was after I drove the car to Tony's batcave and we beat the **** out of it. It was one of his recommendations to try a smaller master, so I did. Basically, the smaller master with the rps feels very much stock like.
I guess that's a long way around of saying you're not wrong to think to try a smaller master cylinder, but maybe the answer is to consider swapping out to a different tilton. Also, highly recommend looking into the tilton 6000 series HRB vs stock HRB. tremendous difference in pedal consistency.
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I use the tick master cylinder with McClouds RXT twin disk and remote bleeder. Had issues as well with clutch feeling like it was struggling to disengage thought initially master cylinder. We may hav different issues but I found my remote bleeder was almost touching my headers causing the fluid to boil losing my pedal. Got my bored girlfriend to pump pedal several times while I repeatedly cracked bleeder till I got the pedal back. Probably 15-20 times of pumping/ cracking re routed remote and problem fixed
Quick question, if placing the quick bleeder into brake fluid wouldn't using a different container (small bottle) work as good or better than placing in the master's reservoir? I wonder if this could help to prevent the risk of getting too low in reservoir fluid so fluid levels stay consistent and would this help if the bottle were higher or lower than the reservoir?
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Verdad Gallardo I had better luck just leaving the bleeder cracked and sticking the end down in the reservoir and pumping the **** out of it than I did with the vacuum method. With the vacuum method, you can end up drawing air back through the system and still never get all of it out. it's a good shortcut to get most of the air out for sure, but i'd still always finish it the old fashioned way.
As to your master, I still run the tick master setup, but I went from the 7/8" bore tilton master they originally supplied back down to the .700" bore master, which eliminated some of the light switch feel of the clutch - more pedal travel to move the pressure plate fingers the same distance.so I could feather it better.
My Monster S3 lasted 11k miles with the 7/8 bore tick master, before I put the RPS clutch in it. I pulled the MS3 out mainly due to weight. After putting the rps in, I went to the smaller master. Actually, that was after I drove the car to Tony's batcave and we beat the **** out of it. It was one of his recommendations to try a smaller master, so I did. Basically, the smaller master with the rps feels very much stock like.
I guess that's a long way around of saying you're not wrong to think to try a smaller master cylinder, but maybe the answer is to consider swapping out to a different tilton. Also, highly recommend looking into the tilton 6000 series HRB vs stock HRB. tremendous difference in pedal consistency.
As to your master, I still run the tick master setup, but I went from the 7/8" bore tilton master they originally supplied back down to the .700" bore master, which eliminated some of the light switch feel of the clutch - more pedal travel to move the pressure plate fingers the same distance.so I could feather it better.
My Monster S3 lasted 11k miles with the 7/8 bore tick master, before I put the RPS clutch in it. I pulled the MS3 out mainly due to weight. After putting the rps in, I went to the smaller master. Actually, that was after I drove the car to Tony's batcave and we beat the **** out of it. It was one of his recommendations to try a smaller master, so I did. Basically, the smaller master with the rps feels very much stock like.
I guess that's a long way around of saying you're not wrong to think to try a smaller master cylinder, but maybe the answer is to consider swapping out to a different tilton. Also, highly recommend looking into the tilton 6000 series HRB vs stock HRB. tremendous difference in pedal consistency.
This is sorta on topic, sorta.
On my Tick/Monster combo, sometimes the clutch pedal is hard to push, other times its super light. It has always been like this.
Anyone else experience something similar?
On my Tick/Monster combo, sometimes the clutch pedal is hard to push, other times its super light. It has always been like this.
Anyone else experience something similar?
One of the tips I read in an older thread was to raise the rear of the car high and then loosen the clutch master cap and pump 30-40 times. This should burp out any air bubbles trapped in the master. My clutch feel was never consistent. After doing this it was greatly improved. Best it's felt since the clutch change.