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Driving home from work last night, the clutch pedal suddenly felt very stiff near the bottom of travel, and the top of the pedal seems to have lowered itself. I felt around the pedal at a stop light and it seemed to have more free play at the top. Clutch still engaged okay. Stopped at the market, and I played with the pedal a bit. Applying a little more pressure, I heard a clunk sound, then the stiffness at the bottom disappeared until I got back home. Tried it again this morning and the stiffness is back. Took off the kick panels and the threaded rod seems to have excessive movement through the firewall. Nothing jumped out at me with the pedal linkage... could something have come loose on the other side of the firewall?
Driving home from work last night, the clutch pedal suddenly felt very stiff near the bottom of travel, and the top of the pedal seems to have lowered itself. I felt around the pedal at a stop light and it seemed to have more free play at the top. Clutch still engaged okay. Stopped at the market, and I played with the pedal a bit. Applying a little more pressure, I heard a clunk sound, then the stiffness at the bottom disappeared until I got back home. Tried it again this morning and the stiffness is back. Took off the kick panels and the threaded rod seems to have excessive movement through the firewall. Nothing jumped out at me with the pedal linkage... could something have come loose on the other side of the firewall?
Might be the return spring inside the clutch master cylinder if you are using a Tick/Tilton master.
Originally Posted by 2000 WS6 Formula
I just went through the same thing, I could still drive it but there was a noticeable difference of the pedal not returning. I ordered a Tilton rebuild kit because I didn't want to pay for a rental while waiting for Tick to rebuild it under warranty as this is my daily driver.
Looks like removing the clutch pedal spring might not be a good idea.
Master Cylinder, Rebuild Kit, .875 in. Bore, Tilton, 75-875RK
I do have the Tick/Tilton adjustable master, originally installed in 2009 but didn't remove the pedal spring until last year when I swapped the LS7 clutch for the Mantic. I still have the pedal spring, but it was real PITA to remove, imagine it's worse to reinstall. My prior tranny shop installed the Tick, that also seems like a hassle. I'll inquire about the rebuild kit and maybe change my bore from 7/8 to 3/4 while it's out. All the local shops are backed up, hope it remains reliable in the interim.
Edit: Last Monday the shifter would not engage, so the car has been down and all shops I trust are backlogged with work. I spoke with Tick at length, and they said they are lifetime warranty to the original purchaser and if I sent mine back they'd replace it with new instead of rebuilding it. But they also offered to let me buy new and send the old back for a refund, I just need to cover return shipping. I'll take them up on the latter offer. Spoke with Mantic, they basically said if I'm comfortable with the feel of the 7/8" bore, no reason to change, just ensure the rod length isn't too long. The shop that installed the Mantic is attempting to fit me in on the 16th.
Last edited by JimMueller; 08-06-2021 at 01:54 PM.
Fixed. Shop rebuilt the master with parts from Tick, but didn't check slave, only judged based upon pedal feel. Two days later lost all clutch hydraulic fluid while trying to make it home in a interstate parking lot. Towed back to shop, replaced slave also, still seems okay 10 days after getting the car back.
07-30-2021, 09:58 AM
Sudden clutch pedal free play 
