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Hi I have an LS1 paired to a tremec tr6060 out of a 2012 camaro ss. This was a build outside of the car before I installed it into my 64 Nova. All parts are NEW except the tr6060 itself and the short block. I'm running a McCleod street pro clutch with a McCleod 62-67 Nova manual conversion master cylinder and reservoir. The throw out bearing is new GM but wasn't bench bled before installing (I wasn't aware i was supposed to...first build don't hate me). I finally tried to bleed the system yesterday and after a couple of hours with my buddy, was left confused. We filled the reservoir and attached a tube to the bleeder like you would on a brake system and just expected to pump to the moon and back before all air was out. After a lot of air was purged it started spitting just fluid from T/O bleeder but the pedal has no firmness whatsoever and the throw out bearing isn't moving at all. I can see the throw out from an access panel I made in the trans tunnel. Tried manually prying the T/O bearing gently without affecting the clutch fingers to see if i could cycle the system but it wouldn't even move. I ordered a Mityvac last night in hopes to flush all the air out. Anyone have any ideas imp feeling stumped and access to the trans is limited so pulling the T/O to do a bench bleed would mean pulling the motor and trans... I can post pics if that helps. Thank you!
I bleed mine by artaching a vacuum pump to the bleed screw on the throw out/ concentric slave, and pump the peddle..usually works but I’ll still get under the car and do it old school, someone pumps the peddle and hold to loot while I undo bled screw and purge then tighten.
Easiest way to bleed the t/o bearing. Open the bleeder and submerged it in a bottle of what ever fluid you are using keep the reservoir full make sure all the lines are tight. Slowly pump the clutch until the bubbles stop.(pump about 50 more times once you think they stop) Once you get it bleed reach into the bottle and tighten the bleeder before removing it from the fluid.
I bleed mine by artaching a vacuum pump to the bleed screw on the throw out/ concentric slave, and pump the peddle..usually works but I’ll still get under the car and do it old school, someone pumps the peddle and hold to loot while I undo bled screw and purge then tighten.
We tried both those methods and like I said I'm getting all fluid and no air now but the pedal feels exactly the same from the first pump. Also shouldn't I see the throw out sleeve depress down when I push on the pedal? It's the standard green GM unit. When the vacuum shows up I'll try and re purge everything.
Post pictures of the setup. You have the lines on the t/o bearing correct. Any leaks. If you have used the bottle method what are you seeing as someone presses the pedal and releases. What did you set the air gap to? As the pedal is pressed the bearing pushes against the fingers when you release the pedal the fingers push the bearing back if the air gap is set correctly. The fingers should be in there natural position slightly angled out.
Post pictures of the setup. You have the lines on the t/o bearing correct. Any leaks. If you have used the bottle method what are you seeing as someone presses the pedal and releases. What did you set the air gap to? As the pedal is pressed the bearing pushes against the fingers when you release the pedal the fingers push the bearing back if the air gap is set correctly. The fingers should be in there natural position slightly angled out.
The clearance from the T/O to the fingers is stock, measured at I believe 1/8in. It isn't touching as far as I know. With the TR6060 you cannot remove the bell housing without pulling out the input shaft and all the gears (found out the hard way). The T/O came from GM at factory settings and we just installed it without bench bleeding because we didn't know you were supposed too, then the trans was mated to LS1 with correct pilot bearing. When the pedal is pressed, fluid in the like moves towards the catch jar with no bubbles (with bleed screw turned about 1/4 out) and then moves back towards throw out when depressed unless bleeder is closed. So fluid is moving through whole system. My buddy says cavitation may be taking place somewhere and we should vac it since there's no forward pressure from mityvac as opposed to pressing pedal. Pics enclosed.
If the bleeder is submerged in the fluid like this while the bleeder is left open. That will bleed it properly
Do you have the information of the clutch master cylinder(bore size and stroke) also need the throwout bearing requirements. You may not have the right master cylinder fluid displacement to provide fully stroke to the throwout bearing. Verify pedal movement (full stroke increase the pedal forward towards the driver)
Last edited by jasons69chevelle; 10-08-2021 at 08:10 AM.
10-06-2021 | 12:56 AM
TR6060 T/O wont bleed 
