T56 billet 3/4 synchro keys broke
12-14-2023, 02:48 PM
#21
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
I ended up rebuilding my whole transmission myself to replace the broken key. I definitely understand the 12-hour labor quote.
The thing all say about rebuilding a T56. It's an 11/10 on the intimidation scale but a 4/10 on the Skill Required scale. Wasn't hard, just nerve racking. Get a big bench cleared off, take every piece off one at a time and set it on the bench in the order and orientation you took it off and you'll be fine. For the love of god, take as many pictures of the shift shafts keyways at the front of the transmission before you remove them and then once you feel you've taken enough pictures take more! The shift shaft assembly was the only part I struggled with because 3 pictures was not near enough.
The thing all say about rebuilding a T56. It's an 11/10 on the intimidation scale but a 4/10 on the Skill Required scale. Wasn't hard, just nerve racking. Get a big bench cleared off, take every piece off one at a time and set it on the bench in the order and orientation you took it off and you'll be fine. For the love of god, take as many pictures of the shift shafts keyways at the front of the transmission before you remove them and then once you feel you've taken enough pictures take more! The shift shaft assembly was the only part I struggled with because 3 pictures was not near enough.
12-14-2023, 09:40 PM
#22
TECH Apprentice
I've heard of people removing only the front cover to replace the keys. It's not that bad of a job. I did get the Amp'd keys installed in the box but I hurt 3rd gear again. I suspect I cracked the syncro ring, but haven't taken it apart to see. I'll try to remember to chime back in with a status of health on the Amp'd keys for a comparison.
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12-14-2023, 09:46 PM
#24
That's what Bruce said at thegearbox too, but yours aren't powdered metal garbage. I cracked a 3rd gear ring in my M29, so wouldn't be totally shocked if that's what it was either. It was 1 and done whatever let go. When the keys let go I had a hard time getting out of 4th gear and that wasn't the case here, I still ran the whole weekend just giving the shifts more time and using a VERY delicate touch. That's why I think the keys are just fine, and if there isn't so much as a scratch on them that'll be excellent apples to apples comparison data between them and the Tick/TGB keys.
12-14-2023, 09:52 PM
#25
Teching In
Thread Starter
I've heard of people removing only the front cover to replace the keys. It's not that bad of a job. I did get the Amp'd keys installed in the box but I hurt 3rd gear again. I suspect I cracked the syncro ring, but haven't taken it apart to see. I'll try to remember to chime back in with a status of health on the Amp'd keys for a comparison.
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12-14-2023, 09:57 PM
#26
I saw a guy on YouTube do it. In fact, when I'm building a T56, I assemble it until the tail housing is on, then remove the front plate to add sealant between it and the main housing. For some reason I have the worst time when adding the sealant on the first go I frequently knock stuff around on the shift linkage and have to take it back apart, redo the sealant, and try again. On one particular incident it took me 3-4 tries to finally get it right and this was not my first rodeo. Since then I've done the sealant last. Once the 5/6/R stuff is secured there is no screwing it up.
12-14-2023, 10:05 PM
#27
Teching In
Thread Starter
I saw a guy on YouTube do it. In fact, when I'm building a T56, I assemble it until the tail housing is on, then remove the front plate to add sealant between it and the main housing. For some reason I have the worst time when adding the sealant on the first go I frequently knock stuff around on the shift linkage and have to take it back apart, redo the sealant, and try again. On one particular incident it took me 3-4 tries to finally get it right and this was not my first rodeo. Since then I've done the sealant last. Once the 5/6/R stuff is secured there is no screwing it up.
12-14-2023, 10:20 PM
#28
I did that for the sealant as well. Can't tell you how many times I took the main case off trying to get those damn shift linkages correct. I'm surprised the synchro key can actually be done from the front. I was a certified technician that worked in the industry for 14 years until very recently and I tried everything I could to replace the key without a disassemble and never got it. I'd love to see the video of how it's actually done if you ever come across the video again. I'm sure it won't be the last time I replace synchro keys.
12-20-2023, 08:36 AM
#29
TECH Apprentice
That's what Bruce said at thegearbox too, but yours aren't powdered metal garbage. I cracked a 3rd gear ring in my M29, so wouldn't be totally shocked if that's what it was either. It was 1 and done whatever let go. When the keys let go I had a hard time getting out of 4th gear and that wasn't the case here, I still ran the whole weekend just giving the shifts more time and using a VERY delicate touch. That's why I think the keys are just fine, and if there isn't so much as a scratch on them that'll be excellent apples to apples comparison data between them and the Tick/TGB keys.
12-20-2023, 01:51 PM
#31
TECH Apprentice
03-22-2024, 07:41 PM
#32
A damn sight better than those powdered metal ones. They are marked up, but I can't catch a fingernail on it so they ought to last a while.
Edited to come back in and footstomp how terrible the powdered dogshit keys are.
The ones I got from G Force were solid chromoly too and lacked the relief cuts of the AMP'd units. Not only that, they were aware of the crap keys that were out there so don't be afraid to have them sell you keys or build you a trans either. I wonder, the keys that Texas Drivetrain Performance sells sure look just like the AMP'd keys. Are they the same?
Last edited by Supercharged111; 03-22-2024 at 10:02 PM.
06-28-2024, 07:09 PM
#34
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