Clutch recommendations
Clutch recommendations I have a 2000 TA M6. I am looking at clutch recommendations. Mods include, BTR Stage 3 cam, 243 heads, Currie 9inch rear end. Car is driven like a daily driver, plan on taken to the track a handful of times a year.
Looks like the McLeod is out after reading all the issues that they have.
My current trans does not like going to reverse while the car is running/sitting from a dead stop. If I roll the car forward, I can get the car to go into reverse.
Any recommendations on clutch, flywheel, master cylinder will be appreciated!
Looks like the McLeod is out after reading all the issues that they have.
My current trans does not like going to reverse while the car is running/sitting from a dead stop. If I roll the car forward, I can get the car to go into reverse.
Any recommendations on clutch, flywheel, master cylinder will be appreciated!
For that power level, I'm a fan of the Luk LS7 style clutch kits. Luk manufacturers a lot of clutches for OEMs, I believe they were the manufacturer for 4th gen clutches stock. I like them because of the price point, and the stock feel and longevity. (I bought mine through Summit, and had them price match to RockAuto)
I bought the Luk for my project 1968 Camaro with iron 6.0 with LS3 heads, and Summit Stage 2 Pro LS Cam.
I bought the Tilton ST246 for another project I have that is a 99 Camaro with a turbo 408. It is a beautiful clutch. I was comparing from the Monster, the Mcleod, and the Tilton. I chose the Tilton because I liked that the pressure plate was custom designed, not just a repurposed stamped steel design.
Luk 04905 is the "LS7 style" and the Luk 04173 is the stock replacement.
I bought the Luk for my project 1968 Camaro with iron 6.0 with LS3 heads, and Summit Stage 2 Pro LS Cam.
I bought the Tilton ST246 for another project I have that is a 99 Camaro with a turbo 408. It is a beautiful clutch. I was comparing from the Monster, the Mcleod, and the Tilton. I chose the Tilton because I liked that the pressure plate was custom designed, not just a repurposed stamped steel design.
Luk 04905 is the "LS7 style" and the Luk 04173 is the stock replacement.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Thibodaux LA
I have an lkq ls7 clutch. Mods in signature. Hold just fine. If you want a slightly stronger upgrade, the monster stage 1 clutch is a good option.
A tick adjustable master cylinder is the best master cylinder upgrade you can do. If it's too expensive, get a stock replacement and drill out the line. There is a write up on how to do it. Also definitely get the tick speed bleeder. No ifs ands or buts. Get it.
As far as issues going into reverse. I noticed going into first then to reverse made it alot smoother going into reverse when the engine is running.
A tick adjustable master cylinder is the best master cylinder upgrade you can do. If it's too expensive, get a stock replacement and drill out the line. There is a write up on how to do it. Also definitely get the tick speed bleeder. No ifs ands or buts. Get it.
As far as issues going into reverse. I noticed going into first then to reverse made it alot smoother going into reverse when the engine is running.
You'll hear a lot of guys bitch about the LS7 clutch. I'm willing to bet very few have ran one.I really like mine on the street. About the same setup as you...like Cajun said whatever you do get the Tick "speed bleeder"...
Thanks Everyone for the replies!
My car has a speed bleeder installed by the previous owner. I believe it came from Tick, but I am
not positive. I can get the Tick master cylinder also, that isn’t an issue. I do not have time to do the install so I am looking for someone anywhere between DFW/Central Texas to as far west as Lubbock, Midland/Odessa to do the install also.
My car has a speed bleeder installed by the previous owner. I believe it came from Tick, but I am
not positive. I can get the Tick master cylinder also, that isn’t an issue. I do not have time to do the install so I am looking for someone anywhere between DFW/Central Texas to as far west as Lubbock, Midland/Odessa to do the install also.
I have an lkq ls7 clutch. Mods in signature. Hold just fine. If you want a slightly stronger upgrade, the monster stage 1 clutch is a good option.
A tick adjustable master cylinder is the best master cylinder upgrade you can do. If it's too expensive, get a stock replacement and drill out the line. There is a write up on how to do it. Also definitely get the tick speed bleeder. No ifs ands or buts. Get it.
As far as issues going into reverse. I noticed going into first then to reverse made it alot smoother going into reverse when the engine is running.
A tick adjustable master cylinder is the best master cylinder upgrade you can do. If it's too expensive, get a stock replacement and drill out the line. There is a write up on how to do it. Also definitely get the tick speed bleeder. No ifs ands or buts. Get it.
As far as issues going into reverse. I noticed going into first then to reverse made it alot smoother going into reverse when the engine is running.
This is exactly how I get it to go into reverse also. I wasn’t sure if it’s because of the large cam, or if the clutch is slipping. There have been times that the car didn’t want to go into reverse also, but it happened over a couple hours/miles on 1 day. I had to fight it to go into reverse/and 1st all day. I have driven the car another 500 miles or so and it hasn’t happened again. I just know that if it doesn’t like reverse, just roll it forward in 1st a little bit and it will go right in.
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Diamond Stage 2 clutch from TDP is a great clutch. I have personally used the stage 2 and stage 3 and loved them both. I had an 03 GMC sierra 5.3L with a T56 Magnum F and Diamond stage 2 and it lived an abusive life and never gave me any issues. I used a stock master that TDP made adjustable and it all worked perfect.
Ran the quarter mile track last night and the time was so embarrassing I can’t even stomach announcing it hahahaha. Car didn’t want to shift from 2nd to 3rd and pissed me off. It doesn’t like aggressive shifting at all! It is shifting fine now on the street and even goes into reverse just fine now…..
I noticed a small puddle of trans fluid on the trailer so time to get it on a lift I supposed.
I noticed a small puddle of trans fluid on the trailer so time to get it on a lift I supposed.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
Question is, What's you're budget and how much more power are you planning to add? Plan for the future.
If you're happy with what you have, a LS7 clutch will hold you and have a nice feel and drivability. That's about the only single disc I'd recommend at your power level. If you're eventually looking for more power, don't even bother with "Stages" of single disc. Go to a twin.
I use Monster and have installed many of them for other people. ***** McLeod... I felt a Tilton but never drove one. It felt very good as far as pedal feel. The guy that does have it really likes it.
As far as the master, I think Ticks only comes with a 7/8" bore. It will have an on/off feel. If they offer it with the Tilton 3/4" bore, that replicates the stock size and makes the clutch so much more streetable. If they don't offer it with the full kit, you'll have to buy it separately. I haven't had to install a master in a while. All the clutches I've done the past few years on 4th gens, have already had an aftermarket master in them already.
You can also run a lightweight flywheel as well. A heavy flywheel is nice on the street but not a must like a roadrace / autoX need for it. On the street you won't need as much engine braking but the faster acceleration is nice with a 18lbs'r.
If you're happy with what you have, a LS7 clutch will hold you and have a nice feel and drivability. That's about the only single disc I'd recommend at your power level. If you're eventually looking for more power, don't even bother with "Stages" of single disc. Go to a twin.
I use Monster and have installed many of them for other people. ***** McLeod... I felt a Tilton but never drove one. It felt very good as far as pedal feel. The guy that does have it really likes it.
As far as the master, I think Ticks only comes with a 7/8" bore. It will have an on/off feel. If they offer it with the Tilton 3/4" bore, that replicates the stock size and makes the clutch so much more streetable. If they don't offer it with the full kit, you'll have to buy it separately. I haven't had to install a master in a while. All the clutches I've done the past few years on 4th gens, have already had an aftermarket master in them already.
You can also run a lightweight flywheel as well. A heavy flywheel is nice on the street but not a must like a roadrace / autoX need for it. On the street you won't need as much engine braking but the faster acceleration is nice with a 18lbs'r.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 353
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Installing more clutch than you need is a step in the wrong direction, as the clutch is what brings the engine and chassis together as an efficient dragstrip package. Too much clutch will pull inertia out of the engine's rotating assy at an excessive rate, which in-turn leads to bog/spin problems. Also narrows the sweet spot for clutch modulation, leading the clutch to act more like an on/off switch.
Grant
I don’t plan on adding more power to this car. I have several other cars. I think I’m going to pull the trans this week and have it gone through. I would like it to run and shift way better then it did at the track the other night that’s all I know hahaha. It ran a friggin 27 seconds, doesn’t particularly like shifting at higher rpms. Couldn’t get it to go into 3rd, couldn’t get it to go into 4th. Finally down shifted back into 3rd. Does perfect at around 3000 rpms.
