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quick drill mod question

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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 03:58 PM
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Default quick drill mod question

I just got a replacement stock master cylidner from gm parts direct and I noticed it said it was pre-bled. I wanted to do the drill mod before I put it in so I wouldn't have to worry about it later but I don't want to have to re bleed the whole thing. Is there anyway to do this or should I just do the drill mod then bleed it again?
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 06:12 PM
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Do the drill mod and rebleed. That's the only way I know how it can be done.
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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the drill mod is just a bandaid, spec even specifically states don't do it anymore
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 09:00 PM
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Why should I not do it? My clutch is stock, would it really hurt it to do this simple mod?
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 2 SLOW
the drill mod is just a bandaid, spec even specifically states don't do it anymore
what else can we do?

tired of my pedal sticking to the floor....
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 2 SLOW
the drill mod is just a bandaid, spec even specifically states don't do it anymore

In that case, who cares what spec says? They're wrong. The clutch won't work right. without the drill mod. This is not a debatable topic.

I dont' care if they change their marketing so they're selling a "STAGE 82," it won't work if you run the restricted hydraulics. It's like adding a shock absorber to mechanical linkage. You slow down the release, you slow down the apply, and you screw up the clutch, and you ruin synchros when shifting occurs without the clutch being released.

Do the drill mod on the line. Do the drill mod on the slave, and bleed it with the jmd method. It will work 10x better than what you (and spec ) are recommending here.
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 11:38 AM
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whats the drill mod on the slave!?!
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 03:37 PM
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and what the hell is the jmd method?
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 05:14 PM
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slave drill (might be vette only; not sure)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=drill+slave

jmd method (there is no substitute )
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...1&pagenumber=2
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 06:48 PM
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Wow, That's a pretty clever method. Do you need an extra long hose to get from the slave to the reservoir or will a regular one do?
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 07:12 PM
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I don't remember the exact length but it is a few (4?) feet long.

jmd method®

clutch problems


-Matthew
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Old Aug 31, 2004 | 12:41 PM
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That method owns, no doubt. I think there may sitll be air in my lines causing me problems so ill rebleed it tonight
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Old Aug 31, 2004 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by term
That method owns, no doubt. I think there may sitll be air in my lines causing me problems so ill rebleed it tonight
Just replied to your PM. Lemme know.
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Old Aug 31, 2004 | 08:50 PM
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I used the mighty vac and it worked great, took 5 minutes.
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 02:17 PM
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I used neither of those methods.

Get in your car. Get one buddy under your car at the bleeder on the slave. Get another buddy watching the fluid resevour. Pump your pedal until the feel comes back and it engages how you want it. Just pause every once and a while so your buddy under the car can open the valve. You other buddy at the resevour just needs to make sure the fluid level doesn't get low by adding more fluid. The pedal WILL usually stick after you open and then close the bleeder valve and start pumping again, but it will stop after a couple pumps.

*IMO* that's the easiest and cheapest way to bleed the system. It saves time, and saves you $40 from the MityVac.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jmd
In that case, who cares what spec says? They're wrong. The clutch won't work right. without the drill mod. This is not a debatable topic.

I dont' care if they change their marketing so they're selling a "STAGE 82," it won't work if you run the restricted hydraulics. It's like adding a shock absorber to mechanical linkage. You slow down the release, you slow down the apply, and you screw up the clutch, and you ruin synchros when shifting occurs without the clutch being released.

Do the drill mod on the line. Do the drill mod on the slave, and bleed it with the jmd method. It will work 10x better than what you (and spec ) are recommending here.

If the clutch won't work right without the 'drill mod' then how come it used to work before and only now (many miles later) he is having problems? Just curious...

IMO, If you 'have to have' the drill mod to make your clutch work, Then you probably have other issues that are causing problems. The 'Drill Mod' might alleviate some of the problems, but what was causing them in the first place?

I am not saying that the drill mod is a 'bad' mod... I would even think that 'some' people may benefit from it. I just think that there are other things (other than the lack of this mod) causing his pedal to stay on the floor...
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by BigDaddyZ28
If the clutch won't work right without the 'drill mod' then how come it used to work before and only now (many miles later) he is having problems? Just curious...

IMO, If you 'have to have' the drill mod to make your clutch work, Then you probably have other issues that are causing problems. The 'Drill Mod' might alleviate some of the problems, but what was causing them in the first place?

I am not saying that the drill mod is a 'bad' mod... I would even think that 'some' people may benefit from it. I just think that there are other things (other than the lack of this mod) causing his pedal to stay on the floor...
Please fully read this thread then post any questions you may have for me. In this thread, or that thread.
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