Does this look like enough clutch slave travel? Previously had no issues before pulling motor and doing motor work. Now, I’m not getting full disengagement and second guessing everything. The master is a 7/8” bore with an adjustable rod end and I’ve tried no preload up to a **** ton.

 

Looks like enough travel but it really should've been checked before the install. .125-.200 is the typical gap for a good release of the clutch disk. I would pull and measure as well as inspect the pilot bearing and input nose for any damage that might be causing a drag.
Also, too much travel can cause these issues as well.

 

+1 to what @dgcustomz advised. You can't really go by "Looks like" on this. Measure and shim as needed to get within specs. I had a nightmare time after replacing my failing OEM with a clutch kit. Ended up using 2 of the thickest of 3 shims to get the travel right. Make sure to "reset" the clutch pedal and do the adjustments all over again. I really wish the adjustable clutches had a better design for adjusting but it is what it is.

 

I went thru the adjustment stage when I put it together the first time and had it driving fine. I’ve since pulled it apart, did motor work (gaskets and cam) paint work blah blah. Hooked clutch line up, bled it a few times, got all the squishy out of the pedal. I’m thinking I botched something bolting the same clutch I removed or I had a hydraulic issue (master or slave bypassing). I wasn’t aware to much travel can have the same effect. Maybe I’ll try adjusting to master pushrod to minimize slave travel.

 

Called and talked to my local clutch rebuilder, who gave me a few ideas and told me to bleed it more. Long story short, with wife holding the clutch pedal and me under the car I found the disc stuck to the pressure plate. It’s unstuck now and onto getting the car out of the shop.