I have the pcm flashed for the 4L60e but I have the actual wiring part left.

Currently we have to press in the clutch switch to start it.

I am ready to have his car done and send him out for a drive.

Question #1. Can he drive it as is? With no wiring done for the selector switch or anything?

Question #2. Can anyone help me wire it up like it should be?

From my research here is what I have come up with.

I need to rob this plug in from my 01 TA that was A4.



For this.



This switch for the neutral safety?



For..



This is the wiring information that I have found...



Anyone have any more insight on this? Also, I plan to omit the cable that comes from the back of the column that goes onto the shift. I seriously doubt that it is needed.


The wiring "diagram" I have made talks about connecting those wires to different "C" connectors. Where are they?

I appreciate all the help.

 

Dead thread. Swapping from T56 to TH400 w/TB if anyone is interested.
Monster clutch 4+, speed bleeder, etc..
If anyone is interested in the parts or more in depth instructions (yes I'm lazy, I read the first 8 and last 3 pages) let me know. Thanks fellas!!

 

Probably swapping in a T56 into my LT1 F-body over the July 4th weekend and I have a couple questions that I haven't been able to answer in reading through this and the various other swap threads around.

1. It seems like many folks struggle with lining up accessing the upper bellhousing to engine bolts when the new trans goes in. Is there any reason I shouldn't separate the bellhousing from the trans and just install the bellhousing onto the engine after the flywheel/clutch/PP are on? it seems this would be much easier to line up and access everything else that needs to go on. the trans without the bellhousing attached would seem to be much smaller/lighter/easier to maneuver and the bellhousing to trans bolts seem easier to access.

2. When swapping from an A4 do I absolutely need a new pilot bearing and flywheel bolts, or are these just nice-to-haves? I'm looking to keep the cost and installation time down as low as absolutely possible.

 

When I get around to doing my a4 to t56, I might send a message to you as you aren't far from me. We'll see, just made the decision to do the saw, so now need to start budgeting and rounding up parts.

 

It took a while for me to round up parts. The best purchase was the pedals complete with sensors and connectors

Join a few "dfw fbody" face book pages, also "north Texas lsx ltx classifieds". There are actually quite a few members who part out cars, things like the pedal assemblies never get claimed early so they should be easy to find.

The swap wasn't too difficult, the car will run and drive with just the neutral switch bypassed. Even on an a4 ecu the speedometer just reads really low but it works.

 

Alright I thought I posted this earlier. I made a detailed walk though

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...arts-help.html

Here is my wiring in the post


I knew I did a write up some where, finally found it

Wiring




I connected the orange/black wires for the hatch release:


I ran the green/purple wires up to the clutch switch (pic showing which wires I cut and extended) :

this pic shows the plug that use to go into the automatic transmission shifter assembly. It now will be used for the m6


I extended the wire for the VSS on the side of the transmission, and I snipped out the brown and light green wires that used to be in the big plug on the 4L60E and attached them to a pigtail for the reverse lights.

For the reverse lockout, I tapped into the blue wire on the brake light switch and ran it down to the connector, and then the other to ground.
the blue plug is the brake light switch. The white plug is the brake depression switch

 

7


Slave mounting by booster

 

Just in case something happens to the original uploads, Im not sure where they are hosted