M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested
Just finished up the swap, and i found a few difference from what i read as far as the cruise control. I did not use a clutch switch at all, just connected the wires together and called it a day, and the cruise control works fine, it doesn't disengage when you push the clutch, but it works. The car is a 98, maybe that is where the difference is? Also, i didn't have to do anything with the vats..
Last edited by ls1itldo; Apr 13, 2005 at 10:06 PM.
ok i have the opposite problem i want to go to a a4 and cant find a thing about the swap can anyone tell me in detail and what parts (all of them ) i would need please i need to do this badly cause i trashed my knee and cant drive my car anymore due to the clutch a friend of mine said he would do the work for me if i got the parts thanks guys and or girls 
Last edited by blkmgc1; Apr 19, 2005 at 06:00 PM.
Originally Posted by Wyckedcamaro
Where can I find a conversion kit from a4 to m6?
Is there a place that sells the ENTIRE KIT needed for the swap?
Is there a place that sells the ENTIRE KIT needed for the swap?
To tell you the truth it is going to be really hard to find somewhere that sells the whole kit but I think that this place does sell the whole thing do a google search on : Trans Am Creations. I bought everything to do mine on this site. I got everything for about $1200 that was pretty cheap. I know that Transam creations will not sell you a tranny cause they sell tranny and engine combos. But everything else to make it work will cost you about $280 and all you have to do is get the tranny.
Originally Posted by sevanseriesta
To tell you the truth it is going to be really hard to find somewhere that sells the whole kit but I think that this place does sell the whole thing do a google search on : Trans Am Creations. I bought everything to do mine on this site. I got everything for about $1200 that was pretty cheap. I know that Transam creations will not sell you a tranny cause they sell tranny and engine combos. But everything else to make it work will cost you about $280 and all you have to do is get the tranny.
TransAM Creations:
http://www.tacreationsusa.com/
954-769-0985
Are those the $10 arp bolts on jegs? They had some kidn of weird head on them like an 8 pt or something. Also, how did you guys remove the automatic transmission dipstick tube? Do I have to cut it out of car?
Originally Posted by Michael Ozorowsky
how did you guys remove the automatic transmission dipstick tube? Do I have to cut it out of car?
Teching In
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Southfield, Michigan
Cost and labor questions for swapping out manual trans for manual trans What type of labor cost would it take to get this done? Any suggestions on shops? Does the cost estimate for parts include core charges / exchange of auto trans?
Originally Posted by dragonZ28
OK. Here is a parts list needed for swapping out a 4L60E for a T56 in an LS1 Fbody:
master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)
new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod
new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot
pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter
pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool
You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM
THE SAME DRIVESHAFT CAN BE USED
REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery)
connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.
connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).
connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these).
Also, the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will need to be cut, and elongated by soldering on about 6 inches of extra wire to each wire going into the connector. This VSS will plug directly into the VSS port on the drivers side of the T56 by the shifter.
WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.
Troublesome parts:
The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.
The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.
Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions above. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM here, or our local message board www.kyhorsepower.com if I haven't responded in a timely manner. (sorry MIGHTYMOUSE )
This whole conversion costed me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Don't be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.
master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)
new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod
new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot
pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter
pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool
You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM
THE SAME DRIVESHAFT CAN BE USED
REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery)
connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.
connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).
connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these).
Also, the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will need to be cut, and elongated by soldering on about 6 inches of extra wire to each wire going into the connector. This VSS will plug directly into the VSS port on the drivers side of the T56 by the shifter.
WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.
Troublesome parts:
The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.
The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.
Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions above. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM here, or our local message board www.kyhorsepower.com if I haven't responded in a timely manner. (sorry MIGHTYMOUSE
)This whole conversion costed me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Don't be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.
Originally Posted by Marc '99T/A
If I remember, the tube is held in by a bracket that bolts to the block, maybe like halfway up the tube. Just take the bolt out, then the tube can just be pulled out of the transmission.
What about that bolt? Can you see the bracket that bolts to either the head or the block? Or is the bolt already out? It's been a couple of years, but I think that's all you need to take the tube out.
Bolt is out, tranny is out. Tube is completely hanging there, but too tight, and tube is bent weird ways (Stock) that I can't pull it up or down around motor. Wasn't sure if there is a trick
it will come out ya have to take it out from the top and it takes a great deal of patience to do it took me about an hour to get mine in just try from the top and move it around a little at a time it'll come good luck
For those of you who have had it professionally installed- how much did the labor cost and did you use the A4 or M6 wiring harness?
For those of you who have installed it yourself- specifically ones near me in the Midwest- How much would you charge me to pay you lol
For those of you who have installed it yourself- specifically ones near me in the Midwest- How much would you charge me to pay you lol
i think alot of guys just mod the harness myself i just sold my m6 harness and i'm gonna buy a new a4 harness retail is around 500 for the harness if your doing the a4 to m6 swap i'll swap ya pedals that's all i have left sold everything else but somewhere in one of these threads i read that it was around 2k to do it yourself
I am in the middle of a a3 to m6 swap. I appreciate the pics and info on the wiring. I think I am set except I have no one close with ls1edit and I need a reflash but my pcm already ahas custom tuning. Whats the quickest and esiest way toget it flashed to m6 without losing my custom tuning? The closest ls1edit is 3 hours away.