Drill mod? 
Drill mod?
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From: fortress of solitude
funny you ask i just did it last night when i replaced my master cylinder. if you go to installuniversity.com you can print out directions on how to do it. you pretty much pull the steel braided line out the master cylinder and drill it out with a 1/8" bit. this allows for more fluid to flow, thereby creating more pressure in the line. I will be the first to tell you that it is more than worth it. my tranny shifts like butter now
i sit possible to flush the system just by unhooking the line from the master cylinder? can you bypass unhooking the resivour from the engine bay of the car? can you just do the whole drill mod and replace of the master cylander from under the car? and then just flush the system in between?
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
The restriction is at the end of the line by the fire wall. I looked and it does look possible to pull the braided line out without removing the MC. I would guess that bleeding it well would be the issue.
The MC is not hard to pull and replace. The worst parts are getting the retainer clip back on the clutch pedal and getting the U bolt back in.
The MC is not hard to pull and replace. The worst parts are getting the retainer clip back on the clutch pedal and getting the U bolt back in.
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From: fortress of solitude
Originally Posted by v DaN 02
i sit possible to flush the system just by unhooking the line from the master cylinder? can you bypass unhooking the resivour from the engine bay of the car? can you just do the whole drill mod and replace of the master cylander from under the car? and then just flush the system in between?
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After the first time it is really easy. Just make sure you bleed the system well, oh and tighten the bleeder. I did not tighten mine enough and it loosened up while power shifting on the street. Luckily I was close to home.
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From: Boring Green, Kentucky
Originally Posted by 1ScrudeDude
Brandon
yeah i read the first tutorial and i wondered to myself if i really had to take off the MC just to do the drill mod. thanks for posting the second link, i had forgotten about that article
Originally Posted by 1ScrudeDude
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Boring Green, Kentucky
Yeah, I figured you guys might like that version.
I did the mod too, but can't figure out why my Spec 3 releases so low to the floor and 1st and 3rd gear feel notchy and mushy on the shifter. It happened right after my clutch install...
I did the mod too, but can't figure out why my Spec 3 releases so low to the floor and 1st and 3rd gear feel notchy and mushy on the shifter. It happened right after my clutch install...
Make sure you spread the roll pin a little on one end before you put it back together. Mine fell out 6 months after I did the drill mod and the braided line shot out of the master. Lost all the fluid in a few seconds on the exhaust manifold in a big poof of smoke. Had to get it towed back home. Luckily I had another complete mc and used the roll pin from it to fix it. I check it every now and then just to make sure it's not working itself loose again. Have considered putting a small worm gear clamp around it just for peace of mind.
i have a question, does the end with the restriction have a quick disconnect male end? or a quick disconnect female end? in other words, does the end with the restriction have the part that the male end clicks into and locks or the female end that is wide open with no "valve"?
Neither. It's on the other end of the braided hose that goes in the master cylinder that's held in by the roll pin we talking about earlier. Click on the link and scroll about half way down, Eric shows pics of how to do the drill mod:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm
The end that you pulled out of the slave cylinder is female, that's the end you stick a screw or similar object in to open and then you dump fluid in the other end that you were drilling the restriction out of to wash the shavings out. That's tough to explain without pics. 
This pic shows it better. The quick disconnect that you are working with is the male section you pull apart from the slave but it has a valve that you need to open with a screw. So technically, the part is actually a hermaphrodite. 
It's on the left in the pic:
It's on the left in the pic: 
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From: Norman, OK
Originally Posted by HavATampa
This pic shows it better. The quick disconnect that you are working with is the male section you pull apart from the slave but it has a valve that you need to open with a screw. So technically, the part is actually a hermaphrodite. It's on the left in the pic:
It's on the left in the pic: