Whats W/ Spec Problems!?!?
I spec slacking on production lately? did they design it more poorly since before? Some1 info? PLEASE
Thanks,
Adam
I'm looking for a clutch too, and I was looking at Spec's. But now in light of these problems...I will have to wait it out. Every other good clutch is like $500+
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I install a ton of clutches into Camaros and Corvettes. I have had the LEAST amount of problems with the SPEC units, and the MOST with the RAM units.
No adjustable and they put the stage 5 in when they built the 408. They said they didnt resurface the flywheel at all but who knows.
SPEC clutches, even after the suggested 500 mile break-in period or whatever, are evidently NOT broken in.
You will have a better chance of a lasting clutch when you break it in until the chatter is completely gone plus another 500 miles of city driving. Highway miles don't count....it's the on/off slipping action that breaks the clutch in...driving it in gear doesn't do squat. Be patient...you aren't driving a Geo....take the extra time to make sure the clutch is broken in before you even consider nailing the loud pedal.
In addition, replace the flywheel! Resurfaced flywheels are too thin and will heat score much easier in a high performance application and constribute to premature failure of the clutch.
I admit, it seems like there are a lot of failures. But in reality, all you hear about on this board are the failures...which is maybe 5% of the clutches sold. There's a pretty good chance that your clutch will perform as intended.
Anyhow, I ordered my RAM Powergrip on sunday. With there adj. M/C...I hope I made a good choice. time will tell. I did alot of reading before deciding. I almost ordered the Spec Stage III, but some local friend that have had good luck with RAM persuaded me.
You should be blaming your mechanic for that clutch failure, not SPEC.
The cardinal rule for installing a new friction material like brake pads or clutch disks: ALWAYS mate them to a fresh, flat surface and make absolutely sure that the surface is completely free of any oils, grease, fingerprints, dirt, etc. by cleaning it with a lint free cloth and brake cleaner.
Find a new mechanic.
The cardinal rule for installing a new friction material like brake pads or clutch disks: ALWAYS mate them to a fresh, flat surface and make absolutely sure that the surface is completely free of any oils, grease, fingerprints, dirt, etc. by cleaning it with a lint free cloth and brake cleaner.
Find a new mechanic.
I thought this as well but Spec said that wasnt the issue with it. They said that with my low miles on the car, 30,000 miles, that it would be ok if it wasnt resurfaced. I thought that was kind of weird myself but they did say that it wasnt an issue.
My Z had 11,000 on it and I too didn't resurface the flywheel. I had a friend do my install (SPEC 3) and I *mentioned* to him to do the resurface. When he pulled everything, he said it looked/felt like new so he didn't get it resurfaced. That was not my intention however.
I have not raced the car yet, I got 375 miles on the clutch, and PLANNED to race it next Wednesday, but after reading this, ****, I guess I should put more city driving on it first. I have done some short WOT runs on it after 200 miles though, so I hope that didn't screw me up. But no launches have been done, or 6000+rpm shifts...
I ripped my stock clutch out at around 30K miles, and the flywheel would have definitely needed to be resurfaced. I just replaced it with a new billet flywheel instead of going through the hassle, and my RAM Powergrip HD (the stage III one) has worked great ever since. I have no chatter at this point, and it holds very well for me, even on stock '02 hydraulics (replaced slave with another new stock unit at the time of install) and untouched master (read - no drill mod).
If you are gonna spend the money on an upgraded clutch, spend a few more $$$ and at least have the flywheel resurfaced. That small amount of money spent is worth it to me for peace of mind and cheap insurance.
Steve





